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post #1 of 15 Old 07-22-2008, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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fried servo motor?

Guys,

Trying to investigate an error code 35 on my 929 RRY so lubed up the areas around the servo motor on the left side of the bike. When the fuel pump primes it now sounds like a camera shutter constantly going off where the pulley system is too the left of the seat and under tank?

Does this mean my servo motor is fried or trying to shift a jammed valve in the exhaust?

I assume the chromed dome where the two servo wires run into covers the valve? Can i take this off to check for a jam with the 4 bolts without releasing wires etc and totally mucking it up? When the noise appears, moving the two supplying cables around seems to have an effect but not permanent.

any thoughts?

Cheers
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post #2 of 15 Old 07-22-2008, 2:54 PM
 
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Re: fried servo motor?

nope the servo motor is on the other end of the cables up under the front part of the seat on the left side of the bike. Under that chrome cover is the exhaust valve. That sound you're hearing is the motor trying to spin back to the correct spot but its never going to get there because the gears are stripped. Common problem. you'll need a new servo motor to fix it.

if you can't convince them, confuse them.
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post #3 of 15 Old 07-22-2008, 10:31 PM
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Re: fried servo motor?

Definately sounds like the servo motor gears.
The cover on the HTEV can attract stones and jam the vlave which is what chewed my servo gears out. Definately worth checking the valve isnt jammed before you fit a new motor.
I would guess that the gears are shot regardless of whether the valve is still jammed or not.

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post #4 of 15 Old 07-23-2008, 4:39 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: fried servo motor?

Thanks guys,

I was afraid it was the servo motor. Have heard stories about riding with this in this state can harm ECU? Can this be true? It wont turn atall even with attempted manual input so i guess the valve may be jammed resulting in the stripped gears internally. Will get Honda to check both when i get the work done.

Any ideas of costs or where i could pick up a replacement rather than OEM if possible? Typically this happened literally minutes after sorting a gear selection issue so with the new chain and sprockets and service this could be an expensive month!
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post #5 of 15 Old 07-23-2008, 4:58 AM
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Re: fried servo motor?

I can't think of any way it could harm the ECU.
There aren't any non-OEM options unless you wanted to try to make something yourself using electronic servos.
You could also just remove it and wire the HTEV and flapper open.
If you decide to buy a secondhand one don't pay big money as it's a very common problem and you might end up with one that's already chewed or on the way out.
I believe the late 954 ones had metal gears but I've never confirmed that by looking inside one.

"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder
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post #6 of 15 Old 07-23-2008, 5:46 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: fried servo motor?

Just checked with UK Honda. £260 for new servo motor and potentially £200 for new exhaust valve and bearing if needed plus labour. He suggested disconnecting cables and seeing if servo motor turns to see if still servicable which indicates jammed/carbed up valve but ok servo or if any jam has stripped the servo teeth. The clicking noise makes me fear the gears have stripped from other posts. Which end would be best to disconnect from? Other option is to clean the valve and see if frees up!

Cheers.
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post #7 of 15 Old 07-23-2008, 6:09 AM
 
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Re: fried servo motor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gilessav View Post
Just checked with UK Honda. 260 for new servo motor and potentially 200 for new exhaust valve and bearing if needed plus labour. He suggested disconnecting cables and seeing if servo motor turns to see if still servicable which indicates jammed/carbed up valve but ok servo or if any jam has stripped the servo teeth. The clicking noise makes me fear the gears have stripped from other posts. Which end would be best to disconnect from? Other option is to clean the valve and see if frees up!
I'd do it by removing the lower bodywork, removing the exhaust valve cover, slackening off the cable adjusters and then removing the cable ends from the exhaust valve.

Then try turning the valve by hand - you should easily by able to turn it by hand if it isn't jammed. Also try and push the cables a bit up in to the sleeves and look at the motor to see if the cable move at the top to check if it isn't the cables that have siezed. Finally if you know the cables aren't siezed you can short out the diagnostics connector to see if the motor moves. If it doesn't I'd whip that tank off, open the airbox, remove the filter and just as a last check make sure that the flapper isn't stopping the motor moving.

Regards,

Mark
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post #8 of 15 Old 07-23-2008, 6:15 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: fried servo motor?

Great cheers for this.

Not mechanically brilliant but will have a go. Have ordered a Haynes manual to help along. Fear its the stripped servo but want to check first as throwing parts at a problem could get expensive. Have bike in local shop next week for C&S and service so may ask him to do as can explain issue and it'll probably be a better bet than myself taking it on blind.

Honda say riding as is wont harm but will get fixed sooner rather than later.

Cheers for all the help.
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post #9 of 15 Old 07-23-2008, 6:22 AM
 
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Re: fried servo motor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gilessav View Post
Not mechanically brilliant but will have a go. Have ordered a Haynes manual to help along. Fear its the stripped servo but want to check first as throwing parts at a problem could get expensive.
It's worth getting the honda one off ebay as the procedures are well presented.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gilessav View Post
Have bike in local shop next week for C&S and service so may ask him to do as can explain issue and it'll probably be a better bet than myself taking it on blind.
Which one are you using? I've been in the honda place in Cowley for some parts and they've never had what I needed and I've also used Abingdon who did the fork recall for me but again were hopeless at getting parts. Would be interested in hearing if there's anyone decent around here - I'm working at Cowley at the moment.

Cheers,

Mark
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post #10 of 15 Old 07-24-2008, 10:05 AM
 
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Re: fried servo motor?

Don't buy from UK. I had exactly the same problem with mine. The part is $180 from US which is only 90 with the exchange rate. If you do a search on past posts on this problem you'll see my posts about it. I paid too much for shipping but still saved over 100 onthe UK price. It's exacly the same part detailed in all those posts. Only takes a few days to get here. Gives you a smug feeling!
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post #11 of 15 Old 07-24-2008, 6:03 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: fried servo motor?

Guys,

Cheers for the help. I'm using slough Honda (sid Morams) as work nearby and they have been very helpful.

Picked up a Hynes manual yesterday from them and had a go tonight at examaning. My thoughts are

1) Servo motor will turn alittle after disconnecting cables from exhaust end.

2) exhaust valve very difficult to turn. tried to remove valve to clean up but outer casing not separating from the valve (aasume its meant to although doesn't look like it!?). Turns with pressure but not easily so maybe badly carbed up or bushes gone?

3) What position do i need to leave the exhaust valve pully index line pointing in now that the cables are disconnected? the valve holder main index line is pointing down currently and the valve index line vertically up-is this max open and the best way to leave it?

4) i'm tempted to just leave valve open permanently as seems expensive as may need servo plus valve parts and am told it wont do anything apart from rob alittle midrange and fuel consumption? Plus i'll be keeping the bike. Honda said if bushes impossible to sort its new lower exhaust at £800 plus but guys who have full systems must bypass the whole issue with a disconnected system enough to fool the ECU and not throw the error codes?

Tried to open valve to the 3 positions when idling to see if could tell if fully open but no real help there.

Any advice welcome. Bike goes to shop tomorrow (indy nearby) for C&S and service so might just explain and get him to set valave open if its not already in current state! feel better that i atleast got my hands dirty though!

Cheers.
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post #12 of 15 Old 07-24-2008, 6:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: fried servo motor?

one other thing to the above, if i dont re-instate the servo/valve mechanism will i need to do some sort of mod to the airbox flapper as thats also driven off the servo i think? could hear it opening and shutting when manually moved the servo cables or is this again a minimal issue to the bikes performance?
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post #13 of 15 Old 07-24-2008, 6:52 PM
 
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Re: fried servo motor?

According to the workshop manual the valve is fully open (4 into 4) with the mark facing upwards. This is the position it'll be in between 3000 & 8000 rpm normally. The airbox flap should only be open above 8000rpm.

David Silver spares (http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/p...enuine-spares/) sell the valve body for 140 and the valve for 75 quid so 800 seems a bit extreme. I don't know if you need bushes on top of that but a call to them would sort that out. I picked up a 2nd hand complete unit off ebay for 35 quid a couple of weeks ago.

You can get an htev valve bypass thing which is effectively a locked off valve but you should simply be able to lock it off with the mark facing upwards to achieve the same thing - do a search on here to confirm. A power commander should sort to fuelling out.

Good luck,

Mark
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post #14 of 15 Old 07-25-2008, 12:06 AM
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Re: fried servo motor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gilessav View Post
guys who have full systems must bypass the whole issue with a disconnected system enough to fool the ECU and not throw the error codes?
I'm not aware that anybody has yet managed to remove the servo motor without getting the error light. You only have to leave the servo plugged into the harness to avoid the light.

For normal riding you'd probably want the valve pointing up - the 3000-8000rpm range - and for racing probably pointed down - the 8000rpm+ range - but try them all and see which you prefer. If you ride under 3000rpm leave it pointing forward but you're probably riding the wrong bike ;-)

The flapper valve is probably simpler to remove it from the airbox entirely.

"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder
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post #15 of 15 Old 07-25-2008, 5:23 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: fried servo motor?

cheers guys once again.

I have the valve pointing up presently but have yet to ride the bike. i'll change it if needs it when ridden as there are only 3 possible positions. Will leave the servo on the harnass and short out the error code if thrown again and see if it returns. I'll look into removing the flapper valve if the bike is not feeling right but as only use on the road and the weekends it may be ok as is. Cant really justify sorting the whole thing presently as car has gone bang and needs replacing so the less i spend elsewhere the better!

The valve cover housing only seems to have one obvious marker point, should this be pointing horizontally along the exhaust in its default position as it was pointing down when i took apart last night, wandering if previous owner had adjusted due to issues. I've set to the above position with valve marker itself pointing at 3000-8000rpm range so this i assume is now fully open?

Thanks again.
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