I replaced fork seals in my 99 R1 a few years ago. Only hard part was releasing spring tension to remove lock nut(2 person job). Use a service manual and you will do fine.
Those are ludicrous prices even if they're including parts and oil.
Dealers in the US must make enormous profits.
I haven't had to do my 929 seals but my SRAD 750 wasn't hard and didn't require any special tools.
One thing to be aware of is to loosen the fork caps before you remove the tubes from the lower clamp but _never_ with the top clamp tight. The top clamp will stop the caps coming undo. The caps do not need to be very tight. They only torque up about as much as the M8 bolts on the fork clamps.
And I always measure the height of the fluid before draining each fork leg into a measuring jug to see exactly how much was in there so I can determine if I want to raise or lower the air gap.
No special tools were required, but you should get a service manual if you don't have one. They have step by step instruction, pictures, torque values and will let you know what tools you need. Try Haynes or Clymer, they are as good as the Honda book and much cheaper. Don't spend that kind of money on this easy job.
If I remember correctly, the job only took me 2 hours, and that included removal and reinstallation of the forks. $300.00 dollars an hour is a lot of money for a simple job.:nono:
i have the service manual, just wondering if the forks have to be taken completely off or if just taking the wheel off will be fine as long as i have enough room to pull the lower forks out.
I guess it might be possible but I can't see any reason to do it this way.
Once you remove the wheel, brakes and guard there're only the eight fork clamp and clip-on bolts left so it'd be a lot easier to just drop the forks and do them on the bench.
Im thinking to do it myself, ive done everything else besides the cams and that sort. I just cant find an available shop manual, Im tryin to get it done tomorrow.
iv change the fork seals on a cbr 929 one person job just bought the seals and oil and a oil lever and i used this video as a references YouTube - Changing Fork Seals Part 1 (of 3) and also you will need a for seal driver
I took mine into the shop for its annual valve check and got a call today saying I have a leaky fork seal. I have been really nice to my forks but this doesn't surprise me, 46000 miles it is about time the seals should go. (wow I love honda) I can't wait to hear the quote. I am sure I am going to be doing this one myself.
Just chiming in to say I'm going to do this myself also. Right leg started leaking. Got a Haynes manual. I actually also have a spare set of legs, but the right from that set is leaking heavily. (why is it always the right leg? Weird.) So, since I already have a leg off (insert monty python joke), I'll work on that one. The spare left leg is good, but I may go ahead and re-seal all 4 legs.
Should I go OEM on the parts or is there a recommended aftermarket kit?
Also, could someone elaborate for me on the fork seal driver? What have people used for this part? Can it be done with a pvc pipe or something?
Thanks guys and I'll keep everyone updated on how it goes.
Fork seal driver is basically a tube of proper ID to fit over the fork slider, usually a 2 piece design (for USD forks) where the OD is just right to match the fork seal OD, thus allowing equal pressure around the fork seal to "drive it" into place (interference fit). PVC may work, but usually they are made out of steel, to get some weight into it to allow for ease of use.
Ok cool thank you. I have access to a machine shop at work, I can get the right diameter pipe in metal. I've put bearing races on bicycle forks before so I assume it's the same idea, just seating them evenly and fully.
I'll look through the service manual and check bikebandit to see which OEM pieces I need to order.
Thanks I appreciate it. I went ahead and got the seal set, a bushing, all the o-rings they had for it along with a dust seal. I do have the spare right leg also in case I have to take a part off of it. Now I just need to get the fork oil. I can try to document this procedure for posterity and post it if anyone would be interested. Maybe compare the points of failure on both forks...
Update: Replacement parts came in. After looking through my Haynes manual, I decided to invest in a fork seal driver. Also found a great youtube tutorial: "Delboy's Garage, USD Fork Replacement" Now just waiting on the driver and I need to get some oil.
Highly recommend people do this themselves, it really doesn't look hard with the right tools, which will pay for themselves. Especially in my case since I have an extra set of forks.
The main difficulty taking these forks apart is pulling the spring spacer down (against fork spring pressure) in order to access the lock nut under it. The spacer has two holes in it for a compressor tool to engage in, they can be bought but I made one out of a cut up disposable MIG gas bottle and a couple of long bolts and nuts.
Done! It really wasn't hard at all! With the fork seal driver, that part of the job was actually the easiest. I definitely recommend one. Also I recommend installing new o-rings and bushings because they are cheap, easy to access/replace while doing fork seal changes. Like BenelliBlade said, the hardest part (beside getting the front end off the ground without a stand) is depressing the spacer above the spring to access the lock nut. I did it by hand, a bit of a struggle, but can be done with dry hands and clean fork. New rotors are nice also, I went with Galfers and Outlaw pads. They bedded in quick and feel great. Here are some photos: https://www.instagram.com/p/BzO4N39nRvp/
Thanks to everyone for the advice.
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