First set of codes. - Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org
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post #1 of 20 Old 05-23-2009, 3:08 AM Thread Starter
 
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First set of codes.

Hey guys,
Ive had my bike inside for 2 weeks, doing some small changes here and there, nothing major at all. I have had the HTEV cables disconnected from it, but now decided to remove the cables from the servo on the left hand side. Well stupid me, I didnt make sure I didnt move the servo, so it was not in the neutral position it was when i last turned the bike off. Tonight, I started the bike, came right up, then was throwing code 34/35, the HTEV/intake code. I didnt think much of it, because I knew this it had come on. I went to see if the servo moved at all, and it didnt at any point. Damn i thought, ill have to live with a light flashing in my face. (I have yet to do the flapper mod, I know, the engine will 'starve' above 8,000 rpm at the time.)

More importantly. I got on, rode down the street, turned right, the speedo reading went out and rpm needle dropped. I figured I have a lose connection because it immediately came back on. Yet with it, a new surprise, a solid red light. I looked the MIL ID, and it can be all sorts of things:


0
No blinks

Open circuit at the power input wire of the
ECM
Faulty bank angle sensor
Open circuit in bank angle sensor related
circuit
•
Faulty engine stop relay
o
• Open circuit in engine stop relay related
wires
Faulty engine stop switch
Open circuit in engine stop switch related
wires
•
Faulty ignition switch
•
Faulty ECM
•
Blown PGM-F1 fuse (20 A)
•
Open circuit in engine stop switch ground • Blown sub-fuse (10 A) (Starter/ignition) •
Engine does not start
5-90

but my engine certainly does start, and it rides as always. I have yet to test fuses, and i will check the engine kill switch as well.

My question: Is there something that will cause code 34 to suddenly become code 0? Do i have both codes? Helpppp


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post #2 of 20 Old 05-23-2009, 3:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: First set of codes.

update: I went back to check a few things but decided to see what happens in N and what happens in gear.
Again, my first light, so im not sure if this is how it goes. It throws code 34/35 in N with the kickstand down, if it's up, solid red, and up and in gear, solid red. Is this how the MIL light works? it throws a code only in N/parked and will simply be lit red when its being "driven"?
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post #3 of 20 Old 05-23-2009, 4:10 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: First set of codes.

and another; after reading around here, maybe i shouldve before, but i was a bit worried, is it possible to reset the servo in a position where the ecu doesnt throw a code? I dont need it to rotate, since the HTEV is wired open and ill do the flapper tomorrow. Also, some people are saying the MIL with flash as soon as the key is turned to "on" with the kill switch in the "not run" position. But mine doesnt flash until the bike is running. As before, the red light is on solid before start, but that is nothing new since it is yet to be primed. Code is only flashing when bike is on the its stand.
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post #4 of 20 Old 05-23-2009, 2:07 PM
 
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Re: First set of codes.

I think thats normal with the sidestand, the manual says the codes should be read with the sidestand down and the run/stop switch to run.
I'm not totally sure of what you've done with the exhaust valve from what you've said. Could you have connected it up wrong and burnt out the servo and the codes are just telling you that? As far as I know people who have removed the exhaust valve have left the servo on the bike and plugged in, but without cables to stop the MIL flashing all the time. If yours is plugged in and flashing maybe it's knackered?
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post #5 of 20 Old 05-23-2009, 3:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: First set of codes.

ill be a little more clear. 2 weeks ago, the servo still had the cables connected to it that ran down to the htev, but they werent connected to the valve- so no chance of stripping anything. The servo was turning just fine at 3k and 8k. Then, i decided to just pull the cables since they were useless just dangling by my exhaust. The first cable came off great and easy, the second one forced me to rotate the servo by hand approx 1/4 turn. Thats all that happened. Im about to go test if the servo is getting voltage, if yes, check if the servo is alright
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post #6 of 20 Old 05-23-2009, 4:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: First set of codes.

the resistance across the servo, yellow/red (+) and green/orange (-) is about 3.2k ohms. Standard is five. Seems that somewhere in the process on moving the cable, i broke the servo, is this possible?
Also, when you have a code in N on its stand, is it normal for the light to be light solid while riding??
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post #7 of 20 Old 05-23-2009, 5:10 PM
 
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Re: First set of codes.

I would have thought it would just reset itself, to find it's position, like most other servo's. If you didn't break it when you moved it, but think that unlikely when you did it by hand, then maybe moving it back to the position it was? Or erasing the fault, maybe it cuts power to the servo when there's an error to prevent it burning out.
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post #8 of 20 Old 05-23-2009, 5:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: First set of codes.

Attachment 36953



Attachment 36954

the gears are all fine, no stripping and everything is lubed well. The resistance is just too low. What can cause the resistance to suddenly be less than 5k Ohms?

Last edited by BurtonF166; 06-03-2009 at 2:52 PM.
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post #9 of 20 Old 05-23-2009, 5:21 PM
 
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Re: First set of codes.

Yeah, I think the MIL is working properly, I think the servo is the problem. It would be a bummer to have to buy a servo if your not going to use it!
I wonder if you put resistors in the end of the plug that the servo plugs into, wether it would fool the ecu into thinking it was still plugged in. I doubt it's that simple, but it would save money.
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post #10 of 20 Old 05-23-2009, 5:28 PM
 
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Re: First set of codes.

There's probably a number of faults that could cause a drop in resistance, but where coils are concerned(in the electric motor) the unsulation can break down on the wire in the coil and short out on the one next to it, shortening the path for the current, so reducing the resistance.
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post #11 of 20 Old 05-23-2009, 5:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: First set of codes.

thanks for the response. I think im gonna live with it for the time being. I might just buy one from ebay. Ive thought about putting resistors in, but since the voltage changes at different rpms, itll just throw a code then.

sorry, i keep asking, with a fault, the light blinks with ignition 'on' and 'run', while riding though, should the light be lit solid?
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post #12 of 20 Old 05-23-2009, 5:57 PM
 
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Re: First set of codes.

I copied this out of the Honda manual, although it's not that clear itself!

The malfunction
indicator lamp
(MlL) will start
blinking only with
the side stand
down and with
the engine off
(engine stop
switch in RUN) or
engine revs are
below 5,000 rpm
In any other conditions,
the Mli
wili illuminate and
stay on

Hope it helps.
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post #13 of 20 Old 05-23-2009, 6:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: First set of codes.

yeah, i read that, which makes sense. Im 95% sure the light is just lit while riding, it doesnt make sense for it to throw another code suddenly while riding, right?
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post #14 of 20 Old 05-24-2009, 1:30 PM
 
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Re: First set of codes.

Yeah, from what they're saying I think the light should be solid if the stand is up. At least it doesn't distract you while riding. Try deleting the fault and putting the servo back on, you never know...
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post #15 of 20 Old 05-24-2009, 6:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: First set of codes.

i rode 200 miles last night and today without any issues/annoyances from the light. Ill look for a good deal on ebay to find one to get the light off but til then, no worries!
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