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post #1 of 7 Old 07-04-2009, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
 
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Manual cam chain tensioner

well. the stock automatic unit has about ad it on my 96 blade. i started hearing the cam chain smack around at certain throttle ranges about 200 miles ago so i decided i will replace it before it completely fails.

I'm tired of the automatic units that fail prematurely so i would like to go with a manual unit. Who makes a good on that is failry inexpensive?
Ive seen people pot up ones from CBRzone but there has to be less expensive units out there
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post #2 of 7 Old 07-04-2009, 3:05 PM
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Re: Manual cam chain tensioner

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Originally Posted by MTXMUGEN View Post
Who makes a good on that is failry inexpensive?
Ive seen people pot up ones from CBRzone but there has to be less expensive units out there
I make my own so they're pretty cheap :-)
All it is is a piece of 8mm or 10mm aluminium plate cut to the pattern of the gasket with an M8 stainless sockethead bolt threaded through the middle with a Nyloc locknut on it. I make a sleeve by drilling an 8mm hole down a short length of 12mm aluminium rod, drop an 8mm ball bearing in first (so the bolt doesn't chew the aluminium when you adjust it) and put that over the end of the bolt to press against the tensioner guide. Round off the end of it so it doesn't damage the guide. The one I put on my '98 GSXR in '02 is still good after about 30,000kms.
For added security you can use 20mm plate so you have more thread gripping the bolt.

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post #3 of 7 Old 07-04-2009, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Manual cam chain tensioner

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Originally Posted by bladeracer View Post
I make my own so they're pretty cheap :-)
All it is is a piece of 8mm or 10mm aluminium plate cut to the pattern of the gasket with an M8 stainless sockethead bolt threaded through the middle with a Nyloc locknut on it. I make a sleeve by drilling an 8mm hole down a short length of 12mm aluminium rod, drop an 8mm ball bearing in first (so the bolt doesn't chew the aluminium when you adjust it) and put that over the end of the bolt to press against the tensioner guide. Round off the end of it so it doesn't damage the guide. The one I put on my '98 GSXR in '02 is still good after about 30,000kms.
For added security you can use 20mm plate so you have more thread gripping the bolt.
I think i may do that. I have some pretty big aluminum round stock that i can throw on the lathe. the only thing is it wont be cut to the outside profile of the gasket, just round
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post #4 of 7 Old 07-05-2009, 12:11 AM
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Re: Manual cam chain tensioner

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Originally Posted by MTXMUGEN View Post
I think i may do that. I have some pretty big aluminum round stock that i can throw on the lathe. the only thing is it wont be cut to the outside profile of the gasket, just round
Just leave a flange around the bottom about 6mm thick and cut that to the shape of the gasket afterwards. The round part only needs to be about 20-25mm diameter to take the thread and for the locknut to bind against.

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post #5 of 7 Old 04-26-2012, 2:26 PM
 
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Re: Manual cam chain tensioner

Hey Bladeracer, Im really wanting to build my own cct, I just cant visualize the sleeve and ball bearing part, is the sleeve threaded as well? and is the part that goes against the guide? that doesnt make sense to me. and if there is an 8mm hole in the rod wouldnt a 8mm ball bearing fall right through? any clarification would be greatly appreciated. thanks.
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post #6 of 7 Old 04-26-2012, 2:32 PM
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Re: Manual cam chain tensioner

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Originally Posted by 929rrblade View Post
Hey Bladeracer, Im really wanting to build my own cct, I just cant visualize the sleeve and ball bearing part, is the sleeve threaded as well? and is the part that goes against the guide? that doesnt make sense to me. and if there is an 8mm hole in the rod wouldnt a 8mm ball bearing fall right through? any clarification would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

You don't strictly need to use the sleeve and bearing.
But the larger the end of the bolt is then the less damage it'll do to the chain guide.
The sleeve is more of a "boot" I guess. Just drill through to leave about 5mm intact at the end. The bearing is just to prevent the bolt from chewing through the aluminium. Both just sit loose on the end of the adjusting bolt.
To avoid having to fabricate the housing you can simply drill and tap a hole through an OEM tensioner housing and convert it into a manual tensioner.

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post #7 of 7 Old 04-26-2012, 2:38 PM
 
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Re: Manual cam chain tensioner

Awesome. that makes sense. thanks alot.
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