cam chain tensioner removal - Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org
Honda FireBlade Discussion of the Honda CBR 900RR, Honda CBR 929RR, Honda CBR 954RR, and Honda CBR 1000RR Motorcycles.

User Tag List

 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 15 Old 07-24-2011, 2:59 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-12-2011
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Reputation Power: 11
     
cam chain tensioner removal

If I take the cam chain tensioner thats on the right side of the motor out, will I have to adjust it when I put it back in the motor? The motor is out of the bike and im taking it in to get a motor mount fixed. The broken mount is located directly below the CCT. Im afriad the gasket on the CCT will melt from the heat from welding and ****. Should I have any worries about removing the CCT? Thanks

02 CBR 954
Midwestrider is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 15 Old 07-24-2011, 5:59 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-12-2011
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Reputation Power: 11
     
Re: cam chain tensioner removal

As you can see from this picture, it is very close the break. Should I remove it?

Also, there seems to be a leak on the very right throttle body insulator. Should I replace the insulator?

Last edited by Midwestrider; 08-24-2011 at 10:32 AM.
Midwestrider is offline  
post #3 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 1:19 AM
 
Join Date: 09-06-2008
Location: White House, TN
Age: 54
Posts: 780
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Reputation Power: 26
                   
Re: cam chain tensioner removal

I would only remove the CCT if it was in the way of the welder. It might be a good time to get a manual CCT if you were so inclined. It's a real bitch to get to it with the motor in the bike.

As far as the throttle body boot, you might want to look at that and see why it is leaking. Replace it or maybe it's not snugged up?

2002 CBR954RR, 1998 VFR800
Deadsmiley is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 1:24 AM
Global Moderator
 
bladeracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-14-2003
Location: Perth, WestOz
Age: 53
Posts: 32,034
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Reputation Power: 230
                     
Re: cam chain tensioner removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Midwestrider View Post
If I take the cam chain tensioner thats on the right side of the motor out, will I have to adjust it when I put it back in the motor? The motor is out of the bike and im taking it in to get a motor mount fixed. The broken mount is located directly below the CCT. Im afriad the gasket on the CCT will melt from the heat from welding and ****. Should I have any worries about removing the CCT? Thanks

02 CBR 954

Removing the CCT is not really recommended but it should be okay as long as the engine has no likelyhood of being turned over while it's removed.
I would just crack the bolts and remove it once you have it in front of the welder and reinstall them as soon as the job is done.
You don't need to adjust the tensioner but you will need to wind it back in so you can install it and then release it to tension the chain.
While you have the engine out I would strongly recommend checking/adjusting the valve clearances as it's so much easier out of the bike, and you can confirm the cam timing is correct as well when reinstalling the tensioner.

"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder
bladeracer is offline  
post #5 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 1:38 AM
Global Moderator
 
bladeracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-14-2003
Location: Perth, WestOz
Age: 53
Posts: 32,034
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Reputation Power: 230
                     
Re: cam chain tensioner removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Midwestrider View Post
As you can see from this picture, it is very close the break. Should I remove it?

Also, there seems to be a leak on the very right throttle body insulator. Should I replace the insulator?

It looks like the manifolds are not fully seated?
Have you checked the vacuum line to your FPR is not pulling fuel?

"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder
bladeracer is offline  
post #6 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 9:00 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-12-2011
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Reputation Power: 11
     
Re: cam chain tensioner removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by bladeracer View Post
Removing the CCT is not really recommended but it should be okay as long as the engine has no likelyhood of being turned over while it's removed.
I would just crack the bolts and remove it once you have it in front of the welder and reinstall them as soon as the job is done.
You don't need to adjust the tensioner but you will need to wind it back in so you can install it and then release it to tension the chain.
While you have the engine out I would strongly recommend checking/adjusting the valve clearances as it's so much easier out of the bike, and you can confirm the cam timing is correct as well when reinstalling the tensioner.
Is there a tutorial on checking/adjusting valve clearances? I've never messed with valves before. Thanks
Midwestrider is offline  
post #7 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 10:00 AM
Global Moderator
 
bladeracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-14-2003
Location: Perth, WestOz
Age: 53
Posts: 32,034
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Reputation Power: 230
                     
Re: cam chain tensioner removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Midwestrider View Post
Is there a tutorial on checking/adjusting valve clearances? I've never messed with valves before. Thanks

Either the OEM or Haynes manual adequately explains the process.

"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder
bladeracer is offline  
post #8 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-12-2011
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Reputation Power: 11
     
Re: cam chain tensioner removal

Just read the manual and holy crap! I don't think im personally going to mess with the cam and valves. It will probably end up worse in the end.
Midwestrider is offline  
post #9 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 2:25 PM
 
Join Date: 09-06-2008
Location: White House, TN
Age: 54
Posts: 780
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Reputation Power: 26
                   
Re: cam chain tensioner removal

It's really not that bad.

Bladeracer is right, it's a heck of a lot easier to do with the engine out of the bike.

2002 CBR954RR, 1998 VFR800
Deadsmiley is offline  
post #10 of 15 Old 07-25-2011, 6:20 PM
 
Join Date: 07-05-2011
Location: Gothtown Sweden
Posts: 126
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Reputation Power: 12
       
Re: cam chain tensioner removal

Agreed. For someone the least mechanicaly inclined itīs in reality rather easy. Further as Bladeracer points out it might be a good idea to check camphasing anyways while at it-together with checking valve clearance.

On the topic of AC light alloy TIG welding then.
Being one of those that pull those kind of jobs like they were going out of style i can tell you that removing the CCT is not an option. It HAS to come out. As you weld aluminium the heat of the welding spreads VERY fast and as such i can guarantee that the CCT will experience WAY more heat than it ever was designed for seing the close proximity.
In recap, it HAS to come out. No two ways about it,and especialy so with the spring in there in mind. When spring steel is subjected to high temperatures it loses its characteristics-and fast.

Further it would be a good idea to use a diegrinder with an aluminium cutter AT the break to cut a 2-3mm deep and approx 45deg angled welding ditch. This will be filled by the welder anyways as he does what heīs supposed to and that brings a weld that wonīt protrude all that much when done.

Make sure to cut that ditch like less than an hour before the welding and that will enhance the chances of a good weld plentyfold(aluminium starts to oxidize as soon as it is subjected to surrounding air and a "fresh" cut makes it less likely that you have to combat oxides as you lay down the weld which brings that the so called HF doesnīt have to be turned down as much as otherwise needed-which often makes for a better and stronger weld. If the TIG used is of newer variety with pulse and mix...disregard what i wrote above. Those TIGs can handle basicaly anything you throw at it in the right hands.
Racing is offline  
post #11 of 15 Old 07-26-2011, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-12-2011
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Reputation Power: 11
     
Re: cam chain tensioner removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Racing View Post
Agreed. For someone the least mechanicaly inclined itīs in reality rather easy. Further as Bladeracer points out it might be a good idea to check camphasing anyways while at it-together with checking valve clearance.

On the topic of AC light alloy TIG welding then.
Being one of those that pull those kind of jobs like they were going out of style i can tell you that removing the CCT is not an option. It HAS to come out. As you weld aluminium the heat of the welding spreads VERY fast and as such i can guarantee that the CCT will experience WAY more heat than it ever was designed for seing the close proximity.
In recap, it HAS to come out. No two ways about it,and especialy so with the spring in there in mind. When spring steel is subjected to high temperatures it loses its characteristics-and fast.

Further it would be a good idea to use a diegrinder with an aluminium cutter AT the break to cut a 2-3mm deep and approx 45deg angled welding ditch. This will be filled by the welder anyways as he does what heīs supposed to and that brings a weld that wonīt protrude all that much when done.

Make sure to cut that ditch like less than an hour before the welding and that will enhance the chances of a good weld plentyfold(aluminium starts to oxidize as soon as it is subjected to surrounding air and a "fresh" cut makes it less likely that you have to combat oxides as you lay down the weld which brings that the so called HF doesnīt have to be turned down as much as otherwise needed-which often makes for a better and stronger weld. If the TIG used is of newer variety with pulse and mix...disregard what i wrote above. Those TIGs can handle basicaly anything you throw at it in the right hands.
Well I wish you would have dropped the ball already and posted sooner, I already took the motor into the welder. Just kidding about the dropping of the ball
But when I took the motor in, the welder said it shouldnt be a problem, BUT now you have me worried so I called and left a message and hopefully he calls back before he starts working on it. Since I can't get to his shop because I work until 5 and that's when he closes(which is stupid), I was going to have him remove the tensioner. It's just the two 10mm or smaller bolts on the left and right side correct? Shouldnt be too hard of a task for him. What you guys think?
Midwestrider is offline  
post #12 of 15 Old 07-26-2011, 5:38 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-12-2011
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Reputation Power: 11
     
Re: cam chain tensioner removal

Ok, the tensioner was removed, but I did not set the motor to top dead center before removing it. Should I be worried now? Will the cam chain adjustment be out of wack now? I know it could possible jump and then a valve would be hitting the piston. Would a good way to tell be putting the tensioner back in the cylinder head, and then turning the crank by hand and listening/feeling for anything hitting inside of the engine?
Midwestrider is offline  
post #13 of 15 Old 07-26-2011, 6:00 PM
 
Join Date: 09-06-2008
Location: White House, TN
Age: 54
Posts: 780
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Reputation Power: 26
                   
Re: cam chain tensioner removal

There is a cam chain retainer that pretty much traps the cam chain on the cams, so jumping time is very unlikely.
Just don't rotate the cranks and you should be fine.

As far as putting the CCT back in, there is a cap on the end of the CCT that needs to be removed. Under that cap there is a slot like for a screwdriver. That is what you use to back off the CCT spring. It's a bit tricky because it requires you to hold that spring back while you install the CCT. Otherwise the CCT will be fully extended. You do NOT want it fully extended while you screw the CCT back onto the block. It takes a pretty small screw driver to back off the spring in the CCT.

You should do this yourself. Don't have the welder do it.

2002 CBR954RR, 1998 VFR800

Last edited by Deadsmiley; 07-26-2011 at 6:07 PM.
Deadsmiley is offline  
post #14 of 15 Old 07-27-2011, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 07-12-2011
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Reputation Power: 11
     
Re: cam chain tensioner removal

Hey guys, I got the motor back all welded up! What do you think? Think the piston is welded to the inside of the cylinder now? LOL

Last edited by Midwestrider; 08-24-2011 at 10:32 AM.
Midwestrider is offline  
post #15 of 15 Old 07-27-2011, 5:43 PM
 
Join Date: 07-05-2011
Location: Gothtown Sweden
Posts: 126
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Reputation Power: 12
       
Re: cam chain tensioner removal

Itīll do.
The welder either used saltwater resistant weldrod or to high a HF(high frequency) when welding though.
All that black coloured goo in the weld is impuritys within the material,and when you bring the TIG to it the "dirt" within the aluminium will float to the surface of the welding core.

Aluminium is a fantastic material to weld as you get to understand what is needed. One reason being that you can basicaly reheat the material to hearts content without any profound ills come into effect.(Compare either black steel or stainless-that you touch ONCE with the TIG...or redo the entire structure/piece)
In short that brings that you can "build" witn aluminium too. In essence just like youīd use bondo.

FWIW..and FYI boys....when working with aluminium use COARSE tools. For instance,if you are to cut a piece of sheet lets say 1/4" thick...use a scroll saw with the same blade youīd use for wood. Just be sure to ad either industrial spirits or lubricating oil aīla ATF or similar as that will keep the blade clean(otherwise itīll clog like crazy)

Likewise with a diegrinder. The coarser the cutting bit the better.

Welding of any alloy is best left to us that do it and do it more or less often. The welding of alloys...takes a bit to get the hang of to be good.



This is what a well executed alloy weld should look like. In this case a diffusor plenum for a high end turbo engine.
Racing is offline  
Reply

  Lower Navigation
Go Back   Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org > Honda Motorcycle Models > Honda FireBlade

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
A valid e-mail address is REQUIRED. You will not have access to any site features until you activate your account using the activation e-mail that is sent to this address.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
APE Cam Chain Tensioner tdiv135 General Discussion 5 06-22-2009 10:34 PM
RRW Cam Chain and tensioner. FOREVERR Honda FireBlade 4 04-13-2009 12:27 PM
954 cam chain tensioner psustang89 Honda FireBlade 0 04-10-2006 8:18 PM
02 954 cam chain tensioner??? psustang89 Honda FireBlade 11 03-26-2006 10:10 PM
954 cam chain tensioner OldBob Honda FireBlade 4 08-13-2004 12:18 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome