Coolant Recommendation - Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org
Honda FireBlade Discussion of the Honda CBR 900RR, Honda CBR 929RR, Honda CBR 954RR, and Honda CBR 1000RR Motorcycles.

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post #1 of 24 Old 01-15-2012, 8:36 AM Thread Starter
 
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Coolant Recommendation

I am UK based. I have a CBR 1000RR 7. What Coolant is best?
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post #2 of 24 Old 01-15-2012, 9:33 AM
 
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Re: Coolant Recommendation

also interested in this one welcome wallder



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post #3 of 24 Old 01-15-2012, 9:46 PM
 
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Re: Coolant Recommendation

Don't use automotive coolant, you should buy your coolant from a motorcycle dealer. Also i used distilled water for mix which is apparently less harmful to your system than tap water, I have been doing this for over twenty years and have never had an issue with cooling systems.
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post #4 of 24 Old 01-15-2012, 10:02 PM
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Re: Coolant Recommendation

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Originally Posted by oxman1196 View Post
Don't use automotive coolant, you should buy your coolant from a motorcycle dealer.

Why? I've never bought coolant from a motorcycle dealer or used a motorcycle-specific coolant.

"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder
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Re: Coolant Recommendation

summer... 90 water 10 water wetter.... winter 50/50 for storage!
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post #6 of 24 Old 01-16-2012, 9:52 PM
 
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Re: Coolant Recommendation

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Why? I've never bought coolant from a motorcycle dealer or used a motorcycle-specific coolant.
Interested as well, what gives?
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post #7 of 24 Old 01-17-2012, 4:24 AM
 
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Re: Coolant Recommendation

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Why? I've never bought coolant from a motorcycle dealer or used a motorcycle-specific coolant.
Same here.
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post #8 of 24 Old 01-17-2012, 12:43 PM
 
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Re: Coolant Recommendation

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Originally Posted by bladeracer View Post
Why? I've never bought coolant from a motorcycle dealer or used a motorcycle-specific coolant.

Automotive coolant is high in silacate and it apparently is too abrasive for motorcycle waterpumps, motorcycle coolant is anti silicate and thereby does not damage the cooling system.
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post #9 of 24 Old 01-17-2012, 12:50 PM
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Re: Coolant Recommendation

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Originally Posted by oxman1196 View Post
Automotive coolant is high in silicate and it apparently is too abrasive for motorcycle waterpumps, motorcycle coolant is anti silicate and thereby does not damage the cooling system.

I'd be very surprised if there's any difference at all between most motorcycle and car water pumps.
Maybe the big old US iron engines do run a different coolant to the rest of the world though?
Certainly building my Suzuki Swift car engines is not at all different to building motorcycle engines, the transmission though is considerably bigger and stronger than the bikes due to the weight they have to push. Building the big old iron car engines is quite different though.

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post #10 of 24 Old 01-17-2012, 1:05 PM
 
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Re: Coolant Recommendation

I have absolutely no evidence to prove that the motorcycle coolant is any less abrasive than automotive coolant other than I have never had any cooling system issues myself, whether it is from the type of coolant I use or plain old luck. Motorcycle coolant is advertised as non-abrasive but one thing is for sure is that it is more expensive than auto coolant so maybe I am the sucker for advertising--we will never know
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post #11 of 24 Old 01-17-2012, 1:07 PM
 
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Re: Coolant Recommendation

BMW and I believe VW use plastic impellers in their water pumps.. I would think that they run similar to the bikes.

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post #12 of 24 Old 01-17-2012, 1:17 PM
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Re: Coolant Recommendation

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Originally Posted by oxman1196 View Post
I have absolutely no evidence to prove that the motorcycle coolant is any less abrasive than automotive coolant other than I have never had any cooling system issues myself, whether it is from the type of coolant I use or plain old luck. Motorcycle coolant is advertised as non-abrasive but one thing is for sure is that it is more expensive than auto coolant so maybe I am the sucker for advertising--we will never know

I'm curious how they're defining a "motorcycle" cooling system and how it's any different to 90% of car cooling systems.

"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder
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post #13 of 24 Old 01-17-2012, 1:40 PM
 
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Re: Coolant Recommendation

Choosing motorcycle engine coolant
The problem: Sometimes, even a straightforward thing like adding or changing coolant becomes fraught with potential problems.
Case in point:
Choosing a motorcycle coolant should be straightforward. Motorcycle engines are made of aluminium. It stands to reason that if we chose a name brand coolant that featured compatibility with aluminium as well as 7 or 8 other metals, we'd be safe, right?
Well it turns out that we'd be wrong. At least for Honda motorcycles. Coolants do more than prevent freezing and protect from overheating. They also protect from corrosion. Traditional automotive coolant contains silicates as part of its anti-corrosive additive mix. It appears that silicates (abrasive in nature) damage the Honda water-pump seals. There have been a spate of Honda water-pump failures that typically occur within one year of having replaced the OEM coolant with silicate-based automotive coolant.
What's the solution?
The recommended coolant, at least for Honda motorcycles, is the newer-generation non-silicate-based coolant. I suspect that non-silicate coolant would be gentler on other brand motorcycles as well.
This is sometimes an inconvenience for someone not living reasonably close to a Honda bike dealership. In addition, OEM motorcycle dealer pricing tends to be a little higher. After more research, I ended up buying Honda coolant from my local Honda car dealership. This is not only convenient, but probably a little cheaper to boot!
The product name is Type 2 coolant (as opposed to Type 1 that is silicate-based) and comes in a 4 litre jug. It's a long-life coolant, comes pre-mixed, is greening in color, and contains no silicates. I found the price reasonable and that's what I put in. Apparently it is also available in concentrated form. While it may be cheaper in concentrated form, I found the convenience of the pre-mix version to more than make up for any possible difference in price.
There are other long-life coolants out there that contain no silicates. It seems that Dexcool (GM) has a checkered history and may be involved in several class action suits. Dexcool has been linked to possibly serious problems, sometimes turning into a jelly-like sludge. It has also been linked to failed intake manifold gaskets.
There are enough well-publicized doubts about Dexcool in its applicability for automotive applications that Id be wary of using it in my motorcycle's engine.
Considerations:
Just a heads up re switching to a non-silicate (ie organic-based) coolant.
If you've been running regular silicate-based coolant, you want to ensure a complete flush ie get it all out.

It seems that silicate and non-silicate-based coolants don't mix well. In fact, they're considered non-compatible. It appears that even a small cross-contamination will impact protection.
From what I've gathered, two things happen.
  • the coolant performance is deemed to revert back to the lowest one ie
    a long-life coolant is deemed to revert back to normal life ie 1 or 2 yrs.
  • there seems to be chemical incompatibility between the two, resulting
    in corrosion inhibitors falling out of suspension. It's believed that the acids in the organic
    non-silicate coolants will tend to cause residual leftover silicates to fall out of
    suspension. Apparently, this will affect corrosion protection and possibly add
    (how much I don't know) to silicate-caused negative results.
re type of water to use:
Regular, mineral-rich tap water encourages scale build-up. Minerals tend to deposit as scale and do so more easily at high temperatures. This scale will tend to accumulate at some hot spots. It decreases heat transfer (ie is insulating) and cuts down on the cooling effectiveness.
In addition, there are the possible chemical reactions of chlorine (common in tap water) and sodium to create chloride salts. Jeff Bertrand (contributor to Motorcycle Consumer News and fellow lister) cautions that, in his experience, this can often result in a highly corrosive soup. Not a pretty picture!
Though this is a normal chemical reaction of chlorine and sodium, I haven't researched this enough to determine to what extent this occurs nor what concentrations are likely to produce negligeable or more significant effects. What I do know is that preventing the formation of this corrosive soup requires a very simple and inexpensive product that is available at every drugstore: distilled water. A four litre jug (approx $2) of distilled water is probably enough to fully flush out a cooling system.
So using distilled water is critical for both flushing and mixing.

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post #14 of 24 Old 01-17-2012, 1:42 PM
 
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Re: Coolant Recommendation

by the way I didn't write the above article in case you wondered
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post #15 of 24 Old 01-17-2012, 1:51 PM
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Re: Coolant Recommendation

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Originally Posted by oxman1196 View Post
by the way I didn't write the above article in case you wondered

I would think most coolants would be okay these days. My guess is that a lot of the US still uses old-style coolants for their 40-50 year old V6/V8 car engine designs. I'm surprised anybody would keep the old stuff in stock.
I wouldn't use a concentrate requiring additional water though, use pre-mixed stuff that's ready to pour in.

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