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Honda FireBlade Discussion of the Honda CBR 900RR, Honda CBR 929RR, Honda CBR 954RR, and Honda CBR 1000RR Motorcycles.

Thread: rear caliper/pad question... Reply to Thread

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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-26-2016 7:20 PM
Re: rear caliper/pad question...

Some good info to mull over. Cheers everyone.
If I'm not mistaken the pad on the side of the piston, i.e. the one the piston pushes, was the worn one. Will look into the pins and lube...sounds like a fun night to me..
05-26-2016 12:24 PM
Re: rear caliper/pad question...

Originally Posted by 1926 View Post
What drive line?
"BIG RIG" driveline... Mack, Freightliner , Volvo.
Yes, I know we're not talking about trucks here, but in my (humble) opinion, it was relevant to the topic of using Nevr-Seize as a lubricant

Originally Posted by 1926 View Post
No pressure is on this stuff like a driveline.
I agree... but see my explanation above.
Do with my contribution as you wish; consider/discard.
05-26-2016 11:42 AM
Re: rear caliper/pad question...

What drive line? No pressure is on this stuff like a driveline.
I often found my attaching bolts seize in aluminum, locking the caliper on the bracket by the time I need pads, or removing them (here comes a technical word) boogers up the threads. I never having lithium grease I dab it on. Haven't seen any ill effects, better than dry I thought. I can easily wipe them clean, and use white grease perhaps, but no, I'll leave it be.
What I wanted to know specifically is, what is a lubricant that won't attract dirt. Some "Dry Lube with teflon" and how does that coincide with other forums (finding answers with a computer is few minutes) that say 3 options exist:

Option 1 - prior to this total disassembly, my normal routine lube for caliper's pivot joints was a spritz of DuPont aerosol "dry lube w/ teflon" every few 100 miles, leaving a waxy slippery film.

Option 2 - a drop of lightweight oil (unadulterated air compressor 'mineral oil').

Option 3 - light smear of water-repellant light grease (eg, Park Tool lube or 3M silicone paste)

So basically, I gather anything that is designed to lubricate works,
none better, none worse, metal loves the be lubricated. Dry is bad. Like motorcycle tires, just get the black ones.
05-26-2016 10:52 AM
Re: rear caliper/pad question...

I have been told (by driveline specialists) that Anti-Seize, Nevr-Seize, and other similar products with their own names, are EXTREMELY abrasive, and are NOT to be used as lubricants on "moving" parts (i.e. output shafts, universal joints, splined stafts, etc.) Armed with this knowledge, I'd be so bold to say, a product such as that would do more long term damage than good.

I've always used a thin coat of (blue) Lithium grease on applications such as those pins... with good results I hope that helps those that took the time to read this post.
05-26-2016 10:42 AM
Re: rear caliper/pad question...

Originally Posted by lanbrown View Post
I would inspect the pins and if dirty I would clean them before using any lube. I would also use a lube that won't attract dirt.
A dry lubricant? I used anti-seize, no good? I'm learning like everyone else.
05-26-2016 10:39 AM
Re: rear caliper/pad question...

You watched the video? Not to sound trite, it was too long for me and like some silent movie without the subtitles, I lost interest as I bumped around every 3-4 minutes of the time scale. I even pay for Youtube red.

I use a vacuum pump. Best $25 I ever spent. Sucks out fluid from my master cylinder reservoir too. (had to look up that spelling, sounds French to me.)
05-26-2016 2:37 AM
Re: rear caliper/pad question...

That was about the most crappy, struggles with the assembly, brings up steel brushes to ruin the finish, has no clue about the groove, keeps moving that nipple 30 times and no pedal... And did you see it was not the pins, has the same style pin guides as the rear? Ready?

1. Look how easy they pulled the pin carrier. So that more or less floated.
2. Look how stuck the piston was from not retracting as in square to the groove.
3. Look how much force was used to install the piston and you know the key to that smooth move, I can push it with one finger or more like thumb the piston back in... NO CAN DO! That was one dirty groove and that was the whole trick to drag... You didn't see it, bud, no offense I'll keep repeating.

1926 dude, you should have caught that right away. Are you sure you have the eyes for the diagnostics? No offense, but you start playing wit day big boys and days is going to come down hard on the abstract... Did you say you as in; you used a steel brush on brake parts that have a machined mirror finish? Rule #1 was... tell me you didn't take the finish out like those clowns!

Dude 26 guy, you ever bleed brakes? You're not one of those cloguys pushing titty pumps, when the squeeze is open once, close once with or without the mityvac? If that's not you and your number one tool is one of those hand jobs... How is it I'm going to start cleaning up your act with that crap rebuild vid for starters?

See the pattern yet?

I can see it from here, pal.
05-26-2016 12:48 AM
Re: rear caliper/pad question...

You can find a video answer to this on youtube easily as I just did, pins cleaning and anti-seize lube to preserve it until the next service is clearly the missed task that causes one side pad wear. You'll want to clean the piston thoroughly before shoving it in and damaging a seal. I use brake fluid to lubricate the piston too after I wire brush it. Check for pits and pinholes on the cylinder and the piston. If you get dirt in the cylinder skipping the cleaning steps, you end up with a caliper that drags and glazes the pads. Sometimes you even turn the caliper into a parking brake. Very easy and inexpensive to maintain calipers.

05-26-2016 12:42 AM
Re: rear caliper/pad question...

I would inspect the pins and if dirty I would clean them before using any lube. I would also use a lube that won't attract dirt.
05-26-2016 12:31 AM
Re: rear caliper/pad question...

I would:
1. Lube float pins.
2. Step on the brake.
3. Disc should roll free.
a. Does the wheel hangup or drag?
b. Did the lube of the pins free up the wheel?
c. When was the last time you changed fluids?

a. Yes.
b. Yes.
c. Only the OP and the previous owner(s) know for sure.

A = Yes, the disc hangs up still = Dirty quad-seal groove.
B = Yes, then it's not the crust under the quad ring's groove, it was dry pins.
C = That quad has to square back into its groove. No square, pin did its job, quad ring is not.
05-26-2016 12:18 AM
coalminer frank
Re: rear caliper/pad question...

The caliper should float on a pin (not the pins that hold the pads in place) to allow even wear on both pads. The rear caliper is not very sophisticated so I think it has pistons on one side, which is probably the same side that is wore. On my F2 front caliper you can actually hold the caliper in one hand and the mounting bracket part in the other and move them in and out. So.....what its doing while in operation the piston pushes against the outside of the rotor while pulling the whole caliper with it, to the outside which causes the inside pads to make contact with the inside of the rotor. All this happens this way because of the "floating pin" which seem like yours is froze up. If any of this dont make sense, wait a bit, I'm sure someone else will chime in.
05-25-2016 10:50 PM
rear caliper/pad question...

MMMkay.. so I noticed my rear pads wore funny on the last set. The inner-pad (nearest the tyre) was fairly good looking whilst the outside pad was pretty done-for... I looked through my manual and do not see anything that I am missing. There is a clip that latches into the front, but that is all I see (aside from the guides that "screw-through" the caliper)... am I missing something?

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