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post #1 of 7 Old 09-02-2011, 9:29 AM Thread Starter
 
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Ground clearance of CBR 954RR

Hi guys!
I've being doing track days for 3 years now. This year started with club racing and there the issues came. Here's the story of my bike. It's stock, except: PC3USB, complete exhaust + Leo Vince carbon can, Braking wavy rotors, some K&N air filter (which doesn't count at all IMO), TRW Lucas rearset plates to raise the rearsets in an upper position, 520 chain conversion with a few sets of sprockets and that's it.

So, my biggest issue with the bike isn't the power but the clearance. In the last race I had (2 weeks ago) I found I've scratched the alternator cover as well as the lower side of the fairing. A week ago I scratched the other side of the bike on another race track, this time just the fairing, luckily the clutch cover was not impacted.

I know some of you guys are doing often track days on such a machinery or 929, which is almost identical. So I'd like to know if a change of the front fork springs with normal for my weight (as currently I'm with the stocks, which are way too soft obviously) will solve the clearance issue? I had a plan to push the forks down of the upper triple clamp (not more than 5mm) to give more ground clearance and put some washers in the back (rear shock), but wasn't sure if this won't just change the geometry and gain nothing.

Here's my ride:
Index of /

On pic #3 the scratch of the alternator is well seen as well as the fairing scratch a bit on the right.
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post #2 of 7 Old 09-02-2011, 9:51 AM
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Re: Ground clearance of CBR 954RR

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Originally Posted by rumba View Post
Hi guys!
I've being doing track days for 3 years now. This year started with club racing and there the issues came. Here's the story of my bike. It's stock, except: PC3USB, complete exhaust + Leo Vince carbon can, Braking wavy rotors, some K&N air filter (which doesn't count at all IMO), TRW Lucas rearset plates to raise the rearsets in an upper position, 520 chain conversion with a few sets of sprockets and that's it.

So, my biggest issue with the bike isn't the power but the clearance. In the last race I had (2 weeks ago) I found I've scratched the alternator cover as well as the lower side of the fairing. A week ago I scratched the other side of the bike on another race track, this time just the fairing, luckily the clutch cover was not impacted.

I know some of you guys are doing often track days on such a machinery or 929, which is almost identical. So I'd like to know if a change of the front fork springs with normal for my weight (as currently I'm with the stocks, which are way too soft obviously) will solve the clearance issue? I had a plan to push the forks down of the upper triple clamp (not more than 5mm) to give more ground clearance and put some washers in the back (rear shock), but wasn't sure if this won't just change the geometry and gain nothing.

Here's my ride:
Index of /

On pic #3 the scratch of the alternator is well seen as well as the fairing scratch a bit on the right.

I've been racing my 929 with totally stock suspension and pegs and weigh around 105kg. I drag both pegs and both sides of the fairing but never touched the stator cover down yet. But my bike is 17kg lighter than stock which probably helps a bit.
Are you bottoming the forks through turns?
Are you getting yourself far enough off the bike?

"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder
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post #3 of 7 Old 09-02-2011, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Ground clearance of CBR 954RR

Are you bottoming the forks through turns?
==> It depends on the turn, I'm not quite sure on which turn I'm scratching the fairings. But on the hardest turns, I've got only 1cm left to bottom them out.

Are you getting yourself far enough off the bike?
==> Can't go further for sure as the highest lean angle is when I'm off the gas or on the gas but just a little bit (on corner entry) - to settle the chassis.

Don't know about the kilos, but in my tank I'm always having no more than 3-4 liters of gas - just for the session or the race.

How did you make your bike 17kgs lighter?

Edit: Do you think if I decrease the sag (from 35mm to 30mm for example) will help? The front should be more stiff and the forks will bottom out a bit more rare...
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post #4 of 7 Old 09-02-2011, 10:41 AM
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Re: Ground clearance of CBR 954RR

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Originally Posted by rumba View Post
Are you bottoming the forks through turns?
==> It depends on the turn, I'm not quite sure on which turn I'm scratching the fairings. But on the hardest turns, I've got only 1cm left to bottom them out.

Are you getting yourself far enough off the bike?
==> Can't go further for sure as the highest lean angle is when I'm off the gas or on the gas but just a little bit (on corner entry) - to settle the chassis.

Don't know about the kilos, but in my tank I'm always having no more than 3-4 liters of gas - just for the session or the race.

How did you make your bike 17kgs lighter?

If you're that close to bottomed out in the turns you must surely be bottomed out under brakes then?
Getting yourself off the side of the bike means you don't need to lean the bike over as far. You should be almost down alongside the fuel tank rather than over it.
Mine is 163kg ready to race without fuel and with 1000RR wheels.
The single biggest weight saving is removing the starting and charging systems as they weigh more than 7kg.
The second biggest weight saving is removing the lights, mirrors, rear undertray and replacing the road plastics with lightweight racing fibreglass.
Then the full-titanium Akrapovic exhaust system which saved 3.5kg.
The servo motor, flapper and PAIR system is 1.3kg.
ERV3 520 chain and lightweight sprockets saves 1kg.
Replacing the rear disc and bolts with aluminium saves 600gms in the rear wheel.
Get rid of the bar end weights.
'06 1000RR wheels save around 400 grams.
I also made a new rider-only rear subframe which saved some useful weight from up high on the bike.
Steel front brake lines with aluminium fittings and banjo bolts save about 100gms.
The rest is lots of small things that add up - like replacing the fork clamp bolts, rear caliper bolts, subframe bolts and such with aluminium.

"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder
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post #5 of 7 Old 09-02-2011, 10:47 AM
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Re: Ground clearance of CBR 954RR

Quote:
Originally Posted by rumba View Post
Edit: Do you think if I decrease the sag (from 35mm to 30mm for example) will help? The front should be more stiff and the forks will bottom out a bit more rare...

If you can't get yourself further off the bike to reduce the lean angle then you would need to raise the bike in some way.
It's really only the stator cover that's a problem as that can unload the bike. I would really suggest not running the charging system on a 929/954 racebike simply because it reduces ground clearance so badly and gets destroyed anyway when you crash. Track days are more difficult though as you generally get a lot more track time in than a race day so you would need several spare batteries. The fairings just wear away. You could simply make some additional fairing mounts to pull the fairing up and in a little further.

"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder
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post #6 of 7 Old 09-02-2011, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Ground clearance of CBR 954RR

Thanks for your input.

If you have removed your starting & charging systems I assume you are running a lithium batteries with external charger? As there's no point of running the stock type battery - it will just break the weight savings idea. However I got 2 friends of mine which went back to the charging system just because of the costs of these type of batteries - they cost a lot and they tend to fck up pretty easily (the cells die easy). I was considering in moving to a bike w/o charging system, however I've chosen not to just because of the "cost 2 result" thing.

I do more track days than racing - the championship consist of only 3 rounds so my sessions are long and often.

So then I'll give a try raising the bike with changing the showing in the top yoke and putting in some shims on top of the rear shock + some more preload.

If this doesn't work then I'll just run slower and in a year or two will buy a newer bike...

Thanks mate!
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post #7 of 7 Old 09-02-2011, 11:25 AM
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Re: Ground clearance of CBR 954RR

Quote:
Originally Posted by rumba View Post
Thanks for your input.

If you have removed your starting & charging systems I assume you are running a lithium batteries with external charger? As there's no point of running the stock type battery - it will just break the weight savings idea. However I got 2 friends of mine which went back to the charging system just because of the costs of these type of batteries - they cost a lot and they tend to fck up pretty easily (the cells die easy). I was considering in moving to a bike w/o charging system, however I've chosen not to just because of the "cost 2 result" thing.

I do more track days than racing - the championship consist of only 3 rounds so my sessions are long and often.

So then I'll give a try raising the bike with changing the showing in the top yoke and putting in some shims on top of the rear shock + some more preload.

If this doesn't work then I'll just run slower and in a year or two will buy a newer bike...

Thanks mate!

There is no need to replace the stock battery, although it's not a bad idea. The weight saving is just from the charging and starting systems but retaining the stock battery. If you haven't ridden the bike with the rotor and starter clutch removed I definately recommend trying it at least once, the engine response is so much better.
The stock battery is good for two races or possibly three but I run a multimeter on the bike to keep an eye on battery charge. For track days I have to replace the battery for each session so I have to take all the batteries from my other bikes as well. It is annoying, but the benefits to the bike in weight and engine response are way more important to me. I also moved the battery and ECU into the space above the transmission to get the weight closer to the centre of the bike.
Certainly, I would agree on the bang-for-buck if you replace the battery with several lithiums but with the OEM battery it doesn't actually cost anything at all - other than some 5mm aluminium plate and a couple of hours making a replacement engine cover, unless you do need to source some spares for track days of course.

"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder
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