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Tie her up and strap her down

7K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  Jaybird180 
#1 ·
Thought I would make an inviting subject line until I saw there was a forum dedicated to such things: trailering bikes.

This weekend, I had the opportunity to trailer my bike to the suspension shop. I'm glad I didn't ride it there (although the weather was nice) because I wouldn't have had a ride back, but that's OT.

One thing I noticed is the lack of definite tie down points on my Fireblade kept her firmly planted. Intuition told me to go check certain things and sure enough I would find that something would come undone on my ratchet straps.

I think the bike was actually moving which allowed for the slack in the line to occur. I had a tie down point around the rear pax pegs and around the forks, extending downward, the front wheel in a makeshift chock and the sidestand down. The right for would visibly compress as I ratcheted, so that' s where I stopped. I'm wondering if I should have stood the bike erect before cranking on the ratchets.
 
#2 ·
For the front I have always used a Canyon Dancer or the competing product...I have both. I personally think using the side stand is dangerous. I know it can take a lot of abuse, but a few good potholes and you could be in trouble.

I know some people that say the canyon dancer can tweak your suspension. I think between a wheel chock would still be better. The canyon dancer to keep it from backing out of the wheel chock and to keep it upright. On the rear, tie downs to keep the rear from moving back and up. You could even do two sets, one set goes forward and one goes back. Some use soft tie downs and go around the rim and tire.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Yep, upright is the only way to transport safely. I always pull fwd with one set and back with the other. If you have it on the side stand it can effectively pivot on it and work loose as you experienced. I've never used any of the "fancy" products like wheel chocks or the canyon dancer (I've sort of constructed my own out of rope, and Boy Scout knot tying), but if I ever decide to haul mine any kind of distance I probably will.
 
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#6 ·
its almost counter intuitive, but i find the kind of straps that you can pull tight through a buckle to be the best for trailering. i loop them around the grips, hook them in and while sitting on the bike, one strap in each hand, rock back n forth while pulling the straps tight. suspension doesnt need to be completely compressed, but some. then i tie the loose end of the straps around the buckle in a way that they cant loosen to lock them in.

ive never used a chock. i do put at least a single strap through and around the rear tire, or one on each passenger rear set, but i dont really use those to compress the suspension at all. they are just there as a safety backup and to keep the rear from moving side to side by any small chance. i just lightly tighten the rear units.

ive hauled dirt bikes and street bikes like this hundreds of times.
 
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#9 ·
I plan to eliminate all the shenanigans. I'm looking for a good deal on a trailer and when. I find it, plan to install a rear axle mount like Pitbull or MotoD.
One contact point and it's done.
This is the Pitbull but the MotoD is very similar and a few bucks cheaper.
https://youtu.be/1zK8mEM8d1c
I would still use a Cycle Cynch or Canyon Dancer. If you hit any bumps, it will help keep the front of the motorcycle from bouncing around.

Out of the two, I'd go with the Pit Bull because of how over engineered they are and their customer service. They also make the same product for a longtime; so even 10 years from now if a new bike requires something different, you will most likely be able to use it with the correct part. Take their front stands that use a pin; they will just sell a new pin so that you use your current stand with the new pin on the new bike.
 
#15 ·

I've used these before and think they're great.
Also have a set of bar tie downs (canyon dancers) to secure the front,
only don't over tighten them as your grips will suffer.
 
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#17 ·
Canyon dancer here too. Without it, it's impossible to not touch the fairings with normal soft-tie's. They leave some powder on the grips, some grip protection I suppose. And as stated above, don't over tighten. When you see the forks start to compress, that's enough. I only compress my forks about 1/4 of the way. Leaves room for the suspension to dip as needed - without bottoming out - while hauling on bumpy roads.

@Jaybird180, That PitBull mount is the cat's meow! But I would use front straps for insurance.
All this stuff works great under normal circumstances, but in an extreme situation, which can happen, I want the bike secured as well as possible. Let's say you happen to run in the ditch, but manage to pull it out, or have to slam on the brakes causing a potential jackknife - there's going to be a lot of forces at work trying to rip your bike out of it's security nest.

My current setup is the most ideal I could ask for. I have airbags to lower the pickup. Tailgate is about knee-high. F150, shortbed of only 5-1/2 feet with tailgate closed. Wedge the front tire into the left front corner, lift rear and swing it to right rear corner. Close tailgate, bike sits perfectly as if in chalks. Stuff a small block behind rear tire to keep 'er from rocking those few inches, and tie down front with CanyonDancer and soft-tie straps. The left strap goes to the left rear of the truck bed, the right one goes to the right front. Done many trips this way, at least 30 or so. Even took 'er on a 3000 mile round trip to visit family two summers ago.

I push the RC51, but I started out with smaller bikes, CR250, CRF450, even my VFR, I used to ride up into the bed. Never an accident, and very secure ramp to tailgate. (I watched a guy spin the ramp right out from under him one time! That was funny. A dirt bike, no damage this time.) The hardest part is picking the rear of the bike up by the rear wheel or exhaust brackets to swing it into the corner. Not bad at all.
 

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#19 ·
@jondog9- seems you're a "belt and suspenders" kinda guy. I like what you have there with the F-150- that thing seat 5?

I "need" to tow 2 sport bikes to the track. I'm currently looking for a deal on a trailer. Something small enough to tow behind our Odyssey. It worked very well my last 2 trips. My wife and I left the middle row at home and stowed the 3rd row and slept trackside for 2 nights.

FWIW- I bought a set of canyon dancers and will likely buy another set for those rare occasions when I will bring both bikes.
 
#21 ·
Jaybird, I'd definitely want that pitbull for a trailer. Especially for two bikes, as it seems so easily adaptable. That's a sweet and well engineered piece. I'm partial to pitbull, own 2 front stands (fork lift and bottom clamp lift) and the rear stand. They're the best. imo.
Good luck, looking forward to seeing how you set it up.
 
#22 ·
Converted dirt bike trailer. Front wheel secured against stop, rear tight enough that compression over a major bump would not dislodge "J" hooks on ratchet straps, front Canyon Dancer... just tight enough to do same as rear yet not so tight as to torque things out of shape. ATL to Michigan (Grattan) no problems. :grin
 

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#24 ·
Just an update since I read this old thread. I bought the Pitbull TRS (2 set) and now own several pin kits for various bikes. I have never bothered with any additional measures and all has worked great. We've towed 4 bikes with 2 CRF50's in a lateral tie down and 2 bikes on TRS. I might add another TRS and then be able to tow 5 but we often use that middle lane for coolers and other things we bring to the track. Eventually, I'll figure out a shelving system that is unobtrusive in the trailer for even more storage.
 
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