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Discussion Starter #1
So, I'm dumb.

My battery of good standing for 6 months pooped out on me a couple of weeks ago. I assumed it was bad, since it came with the bike. I bought a replacement. Did fine, then stranded me. Took the battery back and upgraded to more expensive battery. Did fine, then stranded me.

I researched this topic: http://www.fireblades.org/forums/how-articles/87479-01-cbr-929rr-died-me-has-brand-new-battery.html

I rode around the park the other night with my brights on, heavily-signaling and braking, keeping the rpm's fairly low, and sure enough, she started cutting out. A few heavy revs and she came back to life and I got home.

So, it's probably one of the two. I'll probably just replace both. Not a big deal, except I'll need a new cover gasket and a sooner-than-anticipated oil change.

So, they sell these aftermarket ebay combos: Stator Regulator Rectifier Honda CBR929RR CBR 929RR 2000 2001 New | eBay

Are they junk? They're cheap, but has anyone tried them? Should I be the guinea pig?

Thanks for any help.
 

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Why replace both when you can do the standard tests with a standard multimeter and figure out which is bad?
 

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So, I'm dumb.

My battery of good standing for 6 months pooped out on me a couple of weeks ago. I assumed it was bad, since it came with the bike. I bought a replacement. Did fine, then stranded me. Took the battery back and upgraded to more expensive battery. Did fine, then stranded me.

I researched this topic: http://www.fireblades.org/forums/how-articles/87479-01-cbr-929rr-died-me-has-brand-new-battery.html

I rode around the park the other night with my brights on, heavily-signaling and braking, keeping the rpm's fairly low, and sure enough, she started cutting out. A few heavy revs and she came back to life and I got home.

So, it's probably one of the two. I'll probably just replace both. Not a big deal, except I'll need a new cover gasket and a sooner-than-anticipated oil change.

So, they sell these aftermarket ebay combos: Stator Regulator Rectifier Honda CBR929RR CBR 929RR 2000 2001 New | eBay

Are they junk? They're cheap, but has anyone tried them? Should I be the guinea pig?

Thanks for any help.

Maybe do some tests before throwing money at the bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Because that combo kit is almost as cheap as a new, OEM stator. I could do the tests, and replace the one, but why not just get all-new stuff and be sure; was my logic. But again, I'm dumb.
 

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Because that combo kit is almost as cheap as a new, OEM stator. I could do the tests, and replace the one, but why not just get all-new stuff and be sure; was my logic. But again, I'm dumb.


Sure, and it _may_ even fix the problem.
If there is nothing wrong with your stator and regulator though why replace them with lower-quality items?
You own a Honda so you are going to have to learn to diagnose charging system problems eventually, might as well start saving your money now I reckon.
 

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Or if it's just the regulator, you could spend the money on a MOSFET unit and not only save yourself the hassle of swapping both but get a more reliable RR too.
 

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So, I'm dumb.

My battery of good standing for 6 months pooped out on me a couple of weeks ago. I assumed it was bad, since it came with the bike. I bought a replacement. Did fine, then stranded me. Took the battery back and upgraded to more expensive battery. Did fine, then stranded me.

I researched this topic: http://www.fireblades.org/forums/how-articles/87479-01-cbr-929rr-died-me-has-brand-new-battery.html

I rode around the park the other night with my brights on, heavily-signaling and braking, keeping the rpm's fairly low, and sure enough, she started cutting out. A few heavy revs and she came back to life and I got home.

So, it's probably one of the two. I'll probably just replace both. Not a big deal, except I'll need a new cover gasket and a sooner-than-anticipated oil change.

So, they sell these aftermarket ebay combos: Stator Regulator Rectifier Honda CBR929RR CBR 929RR 2000 2001 New | eBay

Are they junk? They're cheap, but has anyone tried them? Should I be the guinea pig?

Thanks for any help.

Here we go again..the Honda Charging Problem thread. :idunno:

I had a 29, I replaced the stator, it wasn't the problem, so wasted 330 on an OEM one. Then did a 80.00 diagnosis, and it turned out to be the regulator rectifier....but I hear its good to replace em both on the new 1ks, so I wonder if its the same with yours. Instead of gambling..see if you can get a cheap diagnosis from a local mechanic? :idunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sure, and it _may_ even fix the problem.
If there is nothing wrong with your stator and regulator though why replace them with lower-quality items?
You own a Honda so you are going to have to learn to diagnose charging system problems eventually, might as well start saving your money now I reckon.
Sound logic.

What does the MOSFET do?

I don't need to take it to a shop, I don't think. I can get a multi-meter, and monkey with it and figure it out, but I just hate chasing these problems back and forth, I'd like the peace of mind that everything is fresh.

I'm no moneybags though, and $200+ is a lot of money.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So don't replace both parts, both of which are likely to fail again. Replace the one failing part with a GOOD part that is much less likely to fail in the future.
Well, your signature says it all.

I'll pick up a multi-meter tonight from work. That's why I asked you guys before I bought anything else. :)

Thanks for the input.
 

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You can rewrap your stator yourself for like 20$ in about 4 hours total if you order the wire and gasket and ready to do it. I did mine on my 900rr and have over 2000mi so far on it. 20$ shipped for the 18awg magnet wire. I didn't varnish it since wire was designed for oil etc and high temps!
Deff worth it! Way cheaper then buying new stator. Also installed a mosfet shindengin reg for 130$ :-( that hurt a little

68v? Outta each wire from stator?
 

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OK, got it started. At 5000rpm, I'm reading 68v from the stator. This is too high, right? What do I do now?


You need to measure all three phases.
68V AC sounds fine on that phase at least.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok sorry, I was testing the stator plug and only did one of the phases, but realized how late it was, so I had to stop (quiet neighborhood), but I have the tank up and the battery disconnected and charged for tomorrow. I'll have to pick up where I left off.

So, battery voltage:
not running: 12v, running: 13-14.5v

Stator voltage:
Running, unplugged: 50-70v with both prongs in the stator's plug, doing 3 combinations across leads, all should read about the same, correct?

Stator ohms:
not running: 1ohm while both prongs in stator's plug, checking across the leads. Checking with positive terminal across the leads while negative terminal is on battery should also be 1ohm, correct?

These guys use my same meter, its a cruiser bike but I assume this applies to my bike as well?:

If the stator checks out, at least the rectifier's plug is a lot easier to get to...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok dug into it today, but my readings seem odd:

Battery: 12 DCV Battery while running: 13.7-14 DCV

Stator plug plugged in, while running: 0/0/0 DCV and 11.4/11.4/11.4 ACV
Stator plug unplugged, while running: 0/0/0 DCV and 20-22/20-22/20-22 ACV. @5000rpm I got 67/67/67 ACV

Rectifier: plug plugged in, while running: 13.7/13.7/13.7 DCV and 29/29/29 ACV

Unplugging the stator while running causes rpms to rise slightly.

When I disconnected the positive battery terminal while running, it ran for a second, then the gauges stopped working, then the bike cut off.

So does this sound like the stator? My tests are showing equal current, no matter how I switch up the meter terminals.
 
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