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2001 Honda CBR 600 F4i Stunt bike

Mods: Woodcraft Bypass for key-less ignition



NO SPARK AND FUEL PUMP PRIMES'!





To make a long story short there is was a lose terminal on my battery ( ground wire ) that moved and caused a spark while my bike was running and it just died after that. My seat was off and I watched it happen. Started trying to start the bike again and it sounded like it wanted to turn over, but just would not turn. I smelled gas heavily while I was attempting to get it to turn. The battery had a 12 volt charge, but went down to about 8 volts when cranking so I replaced the battery. Tried cranking the bike again with no luck, but the starts sounded 20x better than it did with my old battery. Next phase in diagnostics was to replace the plugs which I thought maybe fouled out. Pulled them out and grounded them and still no luck. (Little side note: anyone looking for plugs for these bikes and have to run iridium check auto-zone or advanced auto they have these plugs for 50-70 percent cheaper than most bike shops (online or in person) who charge close to 20 dollars for these things!) Put new plugs in and still did not start. Checked all fuses and even replaced the main because it was so old. My initial and still current theory is that the ECM is shot, but theories only becomes theories unless disproved. So this was my new task is to disprove this theory. I broke out my trusty voltage meter again and started chasing wires. I ruled out my starter switch itself because obviously it wants to try to crank the bike. My key ignition is completely bypassed by a Woodcraft bypass for a key less ignition. The CDI box is built into my ECM so there is no way of testing that. So far things I have tested for resistance (ohms) and voltage are all four coils, coil plugs, ignition switch, and cam pulse generator. Everything I tested matched up to the manuals specification as well. Wiring harness looks pretty good and I see no visible burn marks. Outside of the ECM I do not know what to test or look for. I am hoping to disprove my theory of it being the ECM because these things are close to 1000 dollars brand new and still very pricey for a risk off Fleabay at 400-500 dollars. Anyone else have a suggestion?
 

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2001 Honda CBR 600 F4i Stunt bike

Mods: Woodcraft Bypass for key-less ignition



NO SPARK AND FUEL PUMP PRIMES'!





To make a long story short there is was a lose terminal on my battery ( ground wire ) that moved and caused a spark while my bike was running and it just died after that. My seat was off and I watched it happen. Started trying to start the bike again and it sounded like it wanted to turn over, but just would not turn. I smelled gas heavily while I was attempting to get it to turn. The battery had a 12 volt charge, but went down to about 8 volts when cranking so I replaced the battery. Tried cranking the bike again with no luck, but the starts sounded 20x better than it did with my old battery. Next phase in diagnostics was to replace the plugs which I thought maybe fouled out. Pulled them out and grounded them and still no luck. (Little side note: anyone looking for plugs for these bikes and have to run iridium check auto-zone or advanced auto they have these plugs for 50-70 percent cheaper than most bike shops (online or in person) who charge close to 20 dollars for these things!) Put new plugs in and still did not start. Checked all fuses and even replaced the main because it was so old. My initial and still current theory is that the ECM is shot, but theories only becomes theories unless disproved. So this was my new task is to disprove this theory. I broke out my trusty voltage meter again and started chasing wires. I ruled out my starter switch itself because obviously it wants to try to crank the bike. My key ignition is completely bypassed by a Woodcraft bypass for a key less ignition. The CDI box is built into my ECM so there is no way of testing that. So far things I have tested for resistance (ohms) and voltage are all four coils, coil plugs, ignition switch, and cam pulse generator. Everything I tested matched up to the manuals specification as well. Wiring harness looks pretty good and I see no visible burn marks. Outside of the ECM I do not know what to test or look for. I am hoping to disprove my theory of it being the ECM because these things are close to 1000 dollars brand new and still very pricey for a risk off Fleabay at 400-500 dollars. Anyone else have a suggestion?
Did it run before the woodcraft delete?
 

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Did it run before the woodcraft delete?

Yes, the bike was running before it died. I was warming up the bike before work one morning and had my seat off about to hook up my LED lights. The lights never got hooked up that day either so they are not part of the problem. Just wanted to throw that out there. Ive never had a problem with the Woodcraft bypass and quite honestly the convenience of them are nice. Just a little concerning sometimes lol.
 

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Does the fuel pump prime when you switch the ignition on? Are you getting +12v on one side of the coils and injectors?

Fuel pump primes and gets adequate amount of amount of gas. If you start it long enough you will smell unburned gas coming out of the tail pipe.



I am not sure I follow what you mean by 12v on one side of the coil and one side of the injector? I just do not feel this is a gas issue unless you know something I am not thinking of? I would also like to add that the fuel relay clicks like it is supposed to when you turn the bike on.
 

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Fuel pump primes and gets adequate amount of amount of gas. If you start it long enough you will smell unburned gas coming out of the tail pipe.

I am not sure I follow what you mean by 12v on one side of the coil and one side of the injector? I just do not feel this is a gas issue unless you know something I am not thinking of? I would also like to add that the fuel relay clicks like it is supposed to when you turn the bike on.

I wanted to check that the ignition switched supply to the injectors and ignition coils was present. If fuel is getting through shows this must be ok on the injector side at least.


Does the F4i have the pink wire coming from the ignition switch (or the bypass in this case)? If so make sure that is showing around 9v with the ignition on.


Do you get any blink codes from the ECU if you bridge the terminals on the diagnostic connector?
 

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I wanted to check that the ignition switched supply to the injectors and ignition coils was present. If fuel is getting through shows this must be ok on the injector side at least.


Does the F4i have the pink wire coming from the ignition switch (or the bypass in this case)? If so make sure that is showing around 9v with the ignition on.


Do you get any blink codes from the ECU if you bridge the terminals on the diagnostic connector?



I have heard about the pink wire, but I have yet to find one so I am not sure if it bypassed or not. I am going to go ahead and say yes sense about every safety/ anti theft device has been bypassed. I can start this thing in first gear without the clutch, but that is stunt bikes for you. With that being said I am pretty sure bridging the gaps to read codes id be there all night watching blinks.
 

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Not sure about the no spark problem but most likely your crank case is full of gas. If the bike sat for a time, chances are your puel pressure regulator has failed. There is a vacuum hose off one side of it that uses vacuum off #1 cylendar ( 929, maybe the same for F4i ). When the FPR fails it sucks the has into #1 dirrectly and floods. The gas then drains into crank case.
Pull the hose from the cylendar side of the connection and suck on it; if you get gas in your mouth, you FPR is bad.
Good luck.
Drain and flush crank case twice if it is contaminated.
 
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