Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I need some advice for my 954RR. It just clicked 21K and I think there is a recommended tuneup at 20K
Replace cam chain tension? Mine is pretty loud so I will replace
Inspect valve train, maybe replace valve shims? I can definitely hear one or 2 valve ticking a little bit.
anything else I need to do?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
433 Posts
Suspension tune up? Change fork oil, check the chain by each link, brake flush, coolant flush which happens anyway when you dig out your cams for those shims. Check the sync on your throttle bodies.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
474 Posts
As mentioned... Suspension tune up? Means: check all nuts and bolts, lube lever pivots at the pegs and levers. Change sprockets and chain as a set, check wheel bearings with tire off and check the front while on the bike.

Change fork oil? Means: I want all the contamination settled at the bottom to be flushed out, I may have to remove the front forks to get at the lower bolt that holds the forks together and spray brake/contact cleaner down the tube and out that hole... No fork splitting needed, just the top cap off and the lower leg bolt. Or, I keep flushing the debris out via the drain screw's hole instead.

Check the chain by each link? Means: You are swapping out old with new parts, no need at this point. However, the real link check is to measure so many pins via shop manual and those pin to pin lengths will show movement away from each outer is how you measure some serviceable limit from link to link.

Brake flush? Means: all lines, masters, calipers are flushed with clean fluid. Note DOT number on top of cap to match what fluid to use.

Coolant flush? Means: hand squeeze the lower pipe to run the bubbles out of the lines so the bike does not overheat using less water you just pour and top off? No... turtle trick or pop a head gasket more or less is that trick.

Shims? Means: first set the valves so you have zero tight valve keeping the valve open to fake a compression test. You are not going to spend a dime on this bike until you find out how much compression the bike has
cold. Book says to check hot, but the day you walk out to that bike and it does not start... it's cold. I want to know that number first before I need a rebuild; with a new chain and sprocket going nowhere.

Check the sync on your throttle bodies/carbs? Means: now you will finally complete the engine and chassis tune is this last one on the list. You already installed a new air cleaner, new plugs, new oil and filter, new liquids/lubes.

Singed,
NOLTT (never overlook the tuneup)​
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
474 Posts
Replace cam chain tension? Mine is pretty loud so I will replace
No, that is part of the tuneup if you do not have an automatic style tensioner.

This is the quick and dirty, not from the book. Book says to set the cam from rolling back via a spring pushing the engine backwards, which takes up slack at the back. To counter that move:

1. I set the bike in top gear.
2. I have the lock nut loose and the hold down bolt loose and off the pushrod.
3. I roll the back wheel forward and hold that tension from moving back.
4. I am snugging down the hold down bolt onto the rod, let go of the wheel and snug down the lick nut.
5. I start the bike and hear for noise:
a. No noise or noise gone = No tensioner change needed.
b. Noise still there = I now look into the tensioner system and change as a set.
c. I would drop the sump pan and look for rubber bits off the tensioner(s) so I know how much noise I'm into?

I'd play this out right now so I know the noise is gone or I would not run the bike until I find out who is deteriorating and what side I hear the same noise. Make sense both the rear wheel move and tensioner material off the slippers?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
433 Posts
As mentioned....on another thread by the same OP, the compression test issue was already answered.

Wheel bearings are usually checked when tires are replaced, a non issue but if you have the forks off anyway, you can at least overdue it and check the front to see it's fine. Brake fluid is DOT 4 on every Fireblade. Sounds like a Harley guy worried if he's got 5.1 or not on his Twin Cam heap of shyt. Wrong forum.

Don't leave so much out if you're going to start with procedures, i.e. torque specs, thread locker, anti-seize, plug number, # engine cycles for compression test to be accurate, front sprocket removal, how to rivet a chain, etc. Means: Your post is incomplete , a hit and miss procedure of what to set, what to squeeze, what to spray, and order of sequence. Keep going, fun to watch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Sorry.
I have a Penske 3 way race shock with reservoir On rear. Front suspension was rebuild last summer due to stiffer spring install. Coolant will be replaced. When it comes to torque specs I fallow to T. I just install new supercorsa. SP tires. I do need to flush brake fluid and maybe rear pads. I have over sized EBC. Rotors and pads.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
474 Posts
As mentioned....on another thread by the same OP, the compression test issue was already answered.
You'll find out I'll post in a more generic way. Runner uppers have no clue how/well the bike is maintained, bought used, I'm not about to guess so generic covers my assorta speak.

Wheel bearings are usually checked when tires are replaced
Again, most services do not have tires being replaced, so the generic check bearings fore and aft is the full service kind of walk around the bike.

if you have the forks off anyway
You might as well pack the steering bearing then. You start back and forth wit me is going to be some entertaining happening and let's say if you are going to go after point for point? :D

you can at least overdue it and check the front to see it's fine.
Are we some sort of runner upper about to drop the zipper and are we matching skill sets or am I more forgetting more than I can remember?

Brake fluid is DOT 4 on every Fireblade.
Someone buying a used bike may not know your kind of trivia. I more or less followed the owner to the generic cap to see the DOT # used. That's kind of see my penis kind of zipper dropping going on? You get in the way of the generic, it's going to put you in your place kind of trivia is now you have cap trivia... Make sense, runner upper?

Sounds like a Harley guy worried if he's got 5.1 or not on his Twin Cam heap of shyt. Wrong forum.
Maybe more sounds like, looks like, smells like a forum runner upper I usually come upon. Generically jerk you off zipper wise those guys ;)

Don't leave so much out if you're going to start with procedures
I more or less cleaned up your procedures with generic tricks not found in the book, squeezebox. :rolleyes:

anti-seize
Where is it in the shop manual that uses anti-seize? We about to squid the spark plugs with that stuff and the factory does not use anti-seize on where?

plug number, # engine cycles for compression test to be accurate
This is a throwaway bike. If say you ran it on the track for competition, sure, leak it down for accuracy. But for a 100 psi or less for a no start... you just have to let it cycle a few times to see if the comp is going to run the bike or not. Look at the frame tag for plug type and valve lash settings.

how to rivet a chain, etc. Means: Your post is incomplete
The guy asked what else should he do to the bike service wise, not rivet chains, change tires, etc. Where are you going with this anyway? Do you need a book to know if the bike will start first thing out the toolbox or not? Is that how you sync a poor cylinder? Should I now explain how to prep the sync tool before you sync the other 3? I bet you just slap the sync tool on and go (faceplant smilie:popcorn:)

a hit and miss procedure of what to set, what to squeeze, what to spray, and order of sequence. Keep going, fun to watch.
Rather you waist a post on the OP than start in on me. :rotfl: Think as if I'm not posting and just help the OP. Want to get on my case; open a thread than hack the OP's thread with your next post.

Signed,
NOLTT (man we are going to have some fun wit the "Runner Uppers" of the forums)
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
433 Posts
Sorry.
I have a Penske 3 way race shock with reservoir On rear. Front suspension was rebuild last summer due to stiffer spring install. Coolant will be replaced. When it comes to torque specs I fallow to T. I just install new supercorsa. SP tires. I do need to flush brake fluid and maybe rear pads. I have over sized EBC. Rotors and pads.
Use anti-seize on the caliper bolts, saves headaches down the road. Most techs know that first time they pull an axle bolt out after the factory stuck it in dry, they shmeg anti-seize on the bolt and nut for an easier follow up tire change, glad you put on fresh skins and ruled out most of the services already. How's the bike handle now with stiffer springs in the front end?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
WOW thanks Catch22 for 411. this is bike has been used by single owner before for daily transport. last 2 years I have used it more on track days then road use.
I also just swapped my rear tire for a the Pirelli SP 200/55 and bike turns is insane. response and stability is amazing. I also have a Scotts Steering Damper. which helps with tank slappers down the straight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
717 Posts
Sorry.
I have a Penske 3 way race shock with reservoir On rear. Front suspension was rebuild last summer due to stiffer spring install. Coolant will be replaced. When it comes to torque specs I fallow to T. I just install new supercorsa. SP tires. I do need to flush brake fluid and maybe rear pads. I have over sized EBC. Rotors and pads.
Oversized discs on a 954?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Oversized discs on a 954?
Yes I will post Pix today.. blade stops on a dime, however, I have noticed last week while raining on the way home, When my brakes get wet It was very difficult to stop. like the bike did not want to stop? Maybe it is the EBC pads or something? when dry bike stops on a dime
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
474 Posts
The wet acts as a lube? You have to put heat in it to the point of boiling off the rain, vaporize it off the pads, etc. Long tracks won't help. Short, tight tracks cook them up sooner, or keeps the kettle perking say.

Personally mind you, I change tires as a set. If you're going to hang it out, the front is half played or more; you go pushing a new rear... That's another; ask me how I know

Signed,
NOLTT
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
717 Posts
Yes I will post Pix today.. blade stops on a dime, however, I have noticed last week while raining on the way home, When my brakes get wet It was very difficult to stop. like the bike did not want to stop? Maybe it is the EBC pads or something? when dry bike stops on a dime
Could be kind of hard to fit oversize discs on 929/954 when they are alreaydy 330mm and the rim is 17''. And what are ''oversized'' pads? If you have more track oriented pads they need heat so they don't grip very good in rain. I use CL:s street/track pads and the difference is quite big when riding when it is raining.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
433 Posts
NOLTT (man we are going to have some fun wit the "Runner Uppers" of the forums)
An old baked crab isn't fun or interesting.

As the thread progressed, the facts from your assumptions grew further and further apart from what this bike is. Sounds like it's in top shape. Scotts Steering Damper, fresh tires, rides it at the track, addressed the much needed suspension mods, as everyone knows it's soft up front, just as well known that every Honda takes DOT 4. You pegged yourself as a retired Harley tech. It's the only bike I ever saw that took anything different from DOT 4 unless someone wanted to change it from factory, and that's probably not changed on the cap at all, so more incomplete advice given.
You pictured something completely different, some dust ball from another thread confused you what is out there.
Blowing your old horn rather than help members looks like this scene. You might change your vocabulary a tad. Sounds a little like senior home mixed in the projects. Your half baked labels all over your posts make straight people scratch their heads. Hope that helps.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
wait a min, I am not a Harley guy, and never have, nor have I ever worked on a Stupid Harley. I am not sure where the whole Harley thing came from? i am MMPE graduate and working at Ride Motorsports. No Harley there. my bike does have good suspension and I have maintained it well. however I was asking for the 20K service or maybe its 22k service? I have to look at the book. Yes I have replaced both tires, but was just speaking of the rear few replays back. My cam chain tension er is going for sure. when bike is idling you can hear for sure, and when I throttle up it starts to go away. Also i might have a few valve to be adjusted. meaning replace a few shim, but at most by sound 2 to 4 valves either intake on #1 or #2, and maybe #4. My top Radiator hose has started to leak or seap through. i ordered that as well with the cam chain tensioner, and new coolant will be added as well. I do not have heat issues bike stays solid at 180. I believe the sprockets and chain were done 500 miles prior to me purchasing the bike 2 years go. Rear sprocket looks new teeth a re straight, chain looks brand new. I maintain it well. every 300 miles light clean with fresh lube.
Swing arm, I probably have to inspect the bearing or bushing in the swing arm and fresh grease or lube. Also I need to upgrade/ replace throttle cables. I am running Vortex clip ons, with stock throttle cables, the cables are little short and when I turn full left to lock throttle goes up. I have tried to adjust but I am at max length.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
474 Posts
LOL, my good man, lettuce just say you are looking at one stubborn man that if you begin to mention for me to socially speak your english, that's where we part ways. My way or the highway. Deal with it.

Again, I do not answer direct. I'm more of an insight, it's generic, walk up to any bike, basic type advice. You pegged me as some hd mech. I've worked on just about every brand or owned us/jap/eng/ita/ger brands, so why should I keep up with the DOT of those bikes, rather read a cap and who needs the net to ask that question?

"... just as well known that every Honda takes DOT 4." Funny, I have a CB750 front master cylinder cap and it says to use DOT 3. Oh well, so much for 'every Honda takes DOT 4.' Oh, you meant every blade takes 4. See, I more sent you to the generic; 'does this Honda take what DOT?'

Sir, these are long in the tooth bikes. Clapped out, poorly maintained, changed hands one too many times, crashed, rebuilt, sitters, rat bikes, burnt pistons and still running kind of... dis ain't cho momma's bike no mo kind of pleasantly worn out kind of Hondas.

That trackbike has how many steering neck services done to it? And your bike has how many front ends taken off to service that interval? Come on, fess up, fella.

LOL... You're better off helping the OP and that post just made you look like your typical runner upper kind of know it all... "ALL Hondas take DOT 4"... that's a good one. How about 'some' Hondas take the DOT the T's and cross the eyes.

POPCORN ICON
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
433 Posts
Like I said, they all take DOT 4. Only a guy that can't use emoticons would focus on that out of the rest.
Everyone knows DOT 4 works in DOT 3.
I knew you'd go back to 1970 to fail at wishing you could make a point, and again, your flatulence got the best of you.
Each post you manifest a childhood desire to elevate yourself higher.

Your way or the highway? More delusions of grandeur. Your past is forgotten by all. Deal with old age. Live in the now. Too scared to see what happens when you die or something? :hmm:
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
474 Posts
Comical. The icon was the corn joke without looking at poppy is you got the clue. What's with the DOT business? I generically sent you to the cap, rather than listen to you as if 'ALL' Hondas use 4. I just changed my oil and used 50/50 mix of 50w racing and chevron delo. Are you going to tell me I can't mix oils in engines and now tell me something is going to leak, smoke, blow up and this is more showing the runner uppers about scared to mix what?

I'm going to go way back into the old basics is that nothing has changed too much, fella.

No delusions here. I do not tell you to change your ways do I? I'm not bossing you around to tow the line. I'm more my own man, can put one leg down the trouser like everyone else. Too bad if I hear the beat of a different drummer, you are out in the public with all the whack jobs.

Live in the now? Ha! If you could only see my bike. I've raced for decades, dude. If I wsd scared of death I don't think that's the sport to get involved with about being scared of dying or getting hurt? A hd mech, scared of dying, not up on the current computer bike, man you need to stop while you are ahead.

Here comes the silence though. I asked you point blank, how many times have you lubed the front end and setup the steering correctly or more like basic assembly? You sort of skirted on that question and I more nailed your neglect than you trying to figure out what brand bike I work on, scared to mix oils anshit.

You need to be a man and accept others as they are.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
433 Posts
wait a min, I am not a Harley guy, and never have, nor have I ever worked on a Stupid Harley.
New to the quote format in a forum I gather. Catch22 is the hog tech.
02CBR954AD, your opinion of harley's match mine perfectly. :rotfl:

Your CBR sounds dandy. So, how about those pictures you promised?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Comical. The icon was the corn joke without looking at poppy is you got the clue. What's with the DOT business? I generically sent you to the cap, rather than listen to you as if 'ALL' Hondas use 4. I just changed my oil and used 50/50 mix of 50w racing and chevron delo. Are you going to tell me I can't mix oils in engines and now tell me something is going to leak, smoke, blow up and this is more showing the runner uppers about scared to mix what?

I'm going to go way back into the old basics is that nothing has changed too much, fella.

No delusions here. I do not tell you to change your ways do I? I'm not bossing you around to tow the line. I'm more my own man, can put one leg down the trouser like everyone else. Too bad if I hear the beat of a different drummer, you are out in the public with all the whack jobs.

Live in the now? Ha! If you could only see my bike. I've raced for decades, dude. If I wsd scared of death I don't think that's the sport to get involved with about being scared of dying or getting hurt? A hd mech, scared of dying, not up on the current computer bike, man you need to stop while you are ahead.

Here comes the silence though. I asked you point blank, how many times have you lubed the front end and setup the steering correctly or more like basic assembly? You sort of skirted on that question and I more nailed your neglect than you trying to figure out what brand bike I work on, scared to mix oils anshit.

You need to be a man and accept others as they are.
Me I have never lube up the front end. My steering damper is adjustable so I adjust on the fly when needed.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top