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Discussion Starter #1
Just checked the valves on my 02 954. Odometer is at 16,000 exactly.

Manual says intake spec is 0.13 - 0.19 and exhaust spec is 0.24 to 0.30.

The set of feeler gauges I have are in thousanths and don't land exactly well with the specs. I have (for intake) .102, .127, .152, .178 then (for exhaust) .229, .254, .279, .305

Anyways here's the results.

(EXH 1 .229 .254) (EXH 2 .254 .254) (EXH 3 .254 .254) (EXH 4 .254 .229)
(INT 1 .152 .127) (INT 2 .152 .102) (INT 3 .152 .127) (INT 4 .127 .127)

I am pretty new to motorcycles and was hoping someone with more experience would look at my results and tell me what they think. My feeling is most of them are fine but was worried about the INT 2 @ .102 (tight seems odd on intake??)

Are the gauges I am using good enough for checking these valves or should I find something that lands within the spec numbers better? Thoughts?
 

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I’d double check and if you are right then you should adjust that 1 tbh. They’ll be little clearance when hot and if it hangs open your gonna to have a lot more work & costs later on.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’d double check and if you are right then you should adjust that 1 tbh. They’ll be little clearance when hot and if it hangs open your gonna to have a lot more work & costs later on.
As in recheck the INT valve @ .102? (I know it seems really odd) Do you think the rest are all set?
 

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Think of feeler gauges as more of a go, no go situation. Or in spec, not in spec.
I used a tighter set to calculate the new shim.
I would re-measure the gaps to make sure the tight one is really that tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok i will re check tonight. Do you think my thousandths feeler gauges should be replaced with something that fits more in line with the manual spec numbers or is it ok to round up/down the thousandths place?
 

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Try and find a set that has both graduations on them. Also, using the ones with the angle on them can make it easier to “feel” the drag.

Even at 16k, there is so little movement in them that Inprobably wouldn’t even had bothered. BUT, I applaud you for doing it right on the interval.

I probably wouldn’t pay much attention to that one spec on the intake. 16k Miles really isn’t that much relatively speaking.

But to change it will take a lot more work, and you might not be able to accurately get it to the spec you want it to be. I’ve changed shins and did the equation for the new size and still had it be out of spec (thinking to myself that I should have just left it alone lol).

Valves are tricky like that, some think that the intakes should loosen over time, but sometimes they don’t.

Curious, did you check them just to check them at the interval? Or was there a noise/power loss/other issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Try and find a set that has both graduations on them. Also, using the ones with the angle on them can make it easier to “feel” the drag.

Even at 16k, there is so little movement in them that Inprobably wouldn’t even had bothered. BUT, I applaud you for doing it right on the interval.

I probably wouldn’t pay much attention to that one spec on the intake. 16k Miles really isn’t that much relatively speaking.

But to change it will take a lot more work, and you might not be able to accurately get it to the spec you want it to be. I’ve changed shins and did the equation for the new size and still had it be out of spec (thinking to myself that I should have just left it alone lol).

Valves are tricky like that, some think that the intakes should loosen over time, but sometimes they don’t.

Curious, did you check them just to check them at the interval? Or was there a noise/power loss/other issue?
Thanks for the awesome response. By both graduations do you mean both inch and metric? My feelers seem to be primarily inch with the metric conversion under the inch which is listed in thousanths. They either land a few thousanths below or above the spec which leads me to believe i should find a different set.

To answer your second question i checked them just to be on target with service. The bike ran flawless tons of power starts easy etc etc only a slight CCT noise which disappears during warm up which i read is common. I have a new OEM CCT for it on the bench.

I think it would at least be wise to check with a metric only set. I see they come in various styles, graduations etc.

If i still come up with the same results you are saying i should just leave it alone? Do a lot of guys wait for a power loss or other issue before checking valves???
 

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Yes, I meant gauges that had both inches and mm on them.
Yes, trying to narrow it to such a small window may put you out of spec on the loose side depending on what size shims are available. The next size shim you may need to add based on the calculation may bring to the top or over the loose spec. Probably just as good to leave it.

With no prior issue (noisy valves are very uncommon unless there’s damage), and the bike running good, I probably wouldn’t even had checked them.

Get a different set while the bike is still apart and recheck. It’s up to you to decide if you want to leave it or not, but I wouldn’t stress over it. If it was so tight that the smallest gauge you had didn’t fit is another issue entirely.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, I meant gauges that had both inches and mm on them.
Yes, trying to narrow it to such a small window may put you out of spec on the loose side depending on what size shims are available. The next size shim you may need to add based on the calculation may bring to the top or over the loose spec. Probably just as good to leave it.

With no prior issue (noisy valves are very uncommon unless there’s damage), and the bike running good, I probably wouldn’t even had checked them.

Get a different set while the bike is still apart and recheck. It’s up to you to decide if you want to leave it or not, but I wouldn’t stress over it. If it was so tight that the smallest gauge you had didn’t fit is another issue entirely.
Well thanks for the excellent write up. I think that sounds fair to me. High performance street bikes are new to me so just trying to keep up on the maintenance. I totally hear what you are saying about trying to adjust the spec and end up going over. I am not sure even what is available for shim kits so that would have been my next question. I will have to find a different set of gauges which may take a few days.
 

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You’re welcome. It’s been a few years since I did valves, but I think Hot-Cams made a kit. They are also available from your local Honda dealer if you feel like getting raped lol, back in the day I used to go to my dealer and swap my old shims for sizes they had. It was pretty nice that they allowed me to do that.
 

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. . . back in the day I used to go to my dealer and swap my old shims for sizes they had. . .
Bah! Back on my day I'd remove a tappet cover with a 17mm ring spanner, check tappets 2mm in, 3mm ex, and if needing adjustment whack on an 8 mm ring and adjust with screwdriver. SOHC 4 cylinder done in less than 30 mins!!

No wonder all I can do now is polish!! :( ;)
 

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Bah! Back on my day I'd remove a tappet cover with a 17mm ring spanner, check tappets 2mm in, 3mm ex, and if needing adjustment whack on an 8 mm ring and adjust with screwdriver. SOHC 4 cylinder done in less than 30 mins!!

No wonder all I can do now is polish!! :( ;)
And you used candles to light up the barn because electricity wasn't invented yet???;)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Guys I checked again and got the exact measurments.

I think its safe on the intake to round .127 up which would put me in spec except for the right side valve on #2 cyl.

On the exhaust side I wish i had a .240 feeler cause it makes me wonder if that would fit. If so my entire exhaust bank would be in spec.

Asking for advice what would you guys do, pull the cams or leave it?

Also if i left it alone is it likely to continue to wear or is it likely to stay put????
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok well i made sense of it all and decided to get a shim kit. I really only need 3 shims but if I get the kit i can put all 16 right in the center of the spec. I pulled the cams tonight and found I can reuse 6 and need to supply 10 from the kit.

One problem I had on disassembly was the camshaft holders sticking. I ended up getting the two big ones off with lots of finesse but the small one was stuck about halfway up on the dowels. I couldnt get a good grip on it and finally decided a light prying action with a tape wrapped screwdriver. Without any force at all it started to come right up but i noticed i nicked the holder right in the center. Was thinking i should just flatten that area out with some sandpaper. Thankfully the head is fine. The pic looks worse than it really is but still has me worried. You guys think this will be an issue???
 

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Sorry I didn't reply to your last post. The flat mating surface isn't as important as the camshaft journal. So, flattening it out with sandpaper is fine. Putting a mark like that in the journal portion would be no bueno.

Looks good to me.
 
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