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02 cbr 600 f4i,no spark

19K views 12 replies 4 participants last post by  bladeracer 
#1 ·
first off the bike ran it ran good too, well as good as a bike would run with no chain but still...then one day went out to mess with it agin and no spark,i bought as a project bike had no plastics or gas tank..have a fuel pump tho...but for some reason it wont start not getting any spark and have no idea where to even start tinkering to see whats good and whats no...when it comes to taking a motor apart and putting it back together i can do that but when its electronic i dont have the slightest clue, any suggestions?

also i dont have the right battery for the bike just a bigger motorcycle battery, had it hooked up to battery charger while i was working on it cause the battery is no good wont hold charge, and i have a power commander on it as well
 
#2 ·
first off the bike ran it ran good too, well as good as a bike would run with no chain but still...then one day went out to mess with it agin and no spark,i bought as a project bike had no plastics or gas tank..have a fuel pump tho...but for some reason it wont start not getting any spark and have no idea where to even start tinkering to see whats good and whats no...when it comes to taking a motor apart and putting it back together i can do that but when its electronic i dont have the slightest clue, any suggestions?

also i dont have the right battery for the bike just a bigger motorcycle battery, had it hooked up to battery charger while i was working on it cause the battery is no good wont hold charge, and i have a power commander on it as well

Is the bank angle sensor positioned correctly?
 
#3 ·
if your talking about the box like thing on the head light yea i got the headlight mounted with wire till i get a front fairing for it...everything is right just dont know why its not getting spark...i took out the right most spark plug coil and put a spare plug in it to figure it out...but now sense ive been playing with everything my fuel pump wont prime either...im starting to think my computer is bad cause when i have it unplugged i touched the port for the fuel pump and it primed but im not sure
 
#6 ·
We have very very similar problems. I will reply in more depth and be very detailed tomorrow but for now let's establish some knowns.

Do me a favor turn the ignition to ON and the kill switch to RUN and measure the voltage with a multi meter or other qualified tool (if you don't have one you can get a decent one for like $20 at walmart) of the:

1. Both of the black wires with white strip. These come from the same source (starter relay) and should have the same voltage. If you have voltage here that means the started relay IS closing.

2. Solid brown wire on the fuel cut relay (the rear most relay on the right side of the tail). Put one probe on that and the other probe to the bare metal frame or any other ground. If you get zero volts here and 12v on the black wires that mesns the fuel cut relay IS NOT closing. if this is true you can now place a jumper wire between the back wire and solid brown wire to see if the pump starts pumping. This will confirm if the pump works.

3. Smaller brown wire with black strip. Do the same thing here; one probe to this wire and other probe to ground.

Get the volts for 1-3 and we will go from there.
 
#8 · (Edited)
You say you grounded the solid brown wire and that powered up the pump. That is not possible. Do you mean you connected it to the black wires on the relay? Those are not grounds, they are power into the relay from the starter relay.

Also you say you got 10-11 volts on all 3. If you mean on the 1,2, and 3 I have above then that is also not possible. With ignition ON and kill switch to the RUN position you should get 12v on both black wires and 12v on either the solid brown or 12v on the brown with a black strip (this will get us closer to where your problem lies). If you get 12v on the solid brown then power is going to your pump. If you have 12v on the brown wire with brown strip then your ecu is sending 12v to the relay to keep it from working properly (closing).

Please go back and check the voltages for me and state something like this:
1. ___V (2 black/white wires...should be the same)
2. ___V (Solid brown wire)
3. ___V (brown/black wire)

When you check these voltages, MAKE SURE you are probing one of the probes to the wire on the relay and the other probe to a chassis ground. Do not probe the black wire on the fuel cut relay plug because this is not a ground.

In order for me to help you I have to know exactly what you did so please try to be a little more specific. I'm having the same exact problem as you so I think we could solve this together.

Ed
 
#10 ·
i even checked the anti theft in the ignition switch and im getting 7.9 volts so its good i herd anything under 9 and anything over 5 is good,i was really hoping it was that would of saved me alot of time and money. now all i can think about its my ecu or i have a bad ground somewhere....having a battery charger on a dead battery would that cause something to blow....i havent had the charger on for long periods at a time when i did use it prolly like 30 minutes or so basicly only when im right ontop of the bike working on it ive had it on...P.S. the battery is no good it wont hold a charge i just put it in the bike with battery charger on it so it wasnt going direct so it had current going though battery
 
#12 ·
If the battery is that bad it may well be the problem.
Have you tried jumper leads onto a car battery?
 
#11 ·
if you are charging the battery only use 2 amps. it is a small battery and you could fry something. never use a car battery to jump it or charge it w/ 12 volts like you would a car. if the battery is dead it could have a bad cell and using a charger might give you wrong readings. also i was told the zener diode should reduce the voltage to 8.5-9.5v ? not sure if that is correct but i think it is. with the key on and the stop switch on (red switch)bike not running check brown/ black wire for ground at the fuel cut relay. if it does not show ground the relay will not work. the ecu sends a ground through that wire until bike is started then after it starts 12 volts will travel through the fat brown wire to the fuel pump. i think that is how the diod tells the ecu the bike is being stolen (hotwired)? right now that is the problem i have. if you go to cbr forum and follow my post in the cbr f4i forum you will see almost everything i have done there with voltages and other stuff. i am waiting for a new diode now to see if i fixes my problem, if not it must be the ecu.
 
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