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Discussion Starter #1
can someone pleas help i was on the highway and the top end of my moter started knocking loud so i pulled of at the nearest exit and the bike died and wldnt start the temp gauge read 240 so i let the bike cool down and it fired back up but it was making a clicky clank noise very loud so i shut the bike down i checked the cct and it was fine all my valve clearances are good the cam chain looked good it is a 03 954 with 4255 miles what could be wrong were should i check next i had synthethic in the bike for about 900 miles and went back to honda 10w40 regular oil and this all happend the very next day i dnt think its because of that could it be a con rod with that low of miles any suggestions or has this happend to anyone else i hear of these bikes with 60000 miles i wld very much apriciate all the help i can get
 

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Very strange for a bike with such low miles, my thought would have been a cam chain and or tensioner. I have about 10k miles on mine and its perfect, a guy I know has 30k on his and said it runs like the first day he bought it, not a common thing from my experience..... The synthetic oil would not make a difference in fact it is probably better to keep it in than put regular oil in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i forgot to say when i first jumped on the highway i redlined in first gear for bout 5 sec to get into the hov lane if i bent or floated a valve would the valve clearance still be in spec also the bike never lost power the motor just died and heated to 240 there was also a slight knock before this all happend but them motors are noisy so i thought nothing of it im trying to remember everything i can
 

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i forgot to say when i first jumped on the highway i redlined in first gear for bout 5 sec to get into the hov lane if i bent or floated a valve would the valve clearance still be in spec also the bike never lost power the motor just died and heated to 240 there was also a slight knock before this all happened but them motors are noisy so i thought nothing of it im trying to remember everything i can
Run a compression check. You can break the lip off a valve and the clearances will still be in spec. That valve is slamming really hard into the seat at red line. I won't get into how bad of an idea it is to red line an engine for that long because I think your about to find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
awwww man are you talkn new head and pistons how exspensive is that im gna do the work myself you think i should just get a new motor
 

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awwww man are you talkn new head and pistons how exspensive is that im gna do the work myself you think i should just get a new motor
I can be wrong, so don't freak out too much.

But if I am right it could be as "easy" as replacing just the broken valve. It all depends on what happened. I had a lip break on one of my exhaust valves and the motor ran terribly, it throws the engine off balance and makes it feel like it's going to tear itself apart. I was fortunate in that the chuck of valve flew out of the exhaust port without causing any damage whatsoever to the piston or cylinder walls. Individual results will vary.

First things first, run that compression check. Do you know how?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i already took the moter out of the bike didnt lose power it jus died and it starts up but makes that nasty noise it sounded like a cam chain but i checked and it was fine im gna rip the head off tomorrow im just blind on what im lookn for but ill check the valves and let you know i thought a valve would make it loose power and iv seen so many people burn there tire off bike pined to the rev limiter and nothing happend i would never do that to my baby im jus down in the dumps first time i hit the rev limiter and my world crashes down on me
 

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i already took the moter out of the bike didnt lose power it jus died and it starts up but makes that nasty noise it sounded like a cam chain but i checked and it was fine im gna rip the head off tomorrow im just blind on what im lookn for but ill check the valves and let you know i thought a valve would make it loose power and iv seen so many people burn there tire off bike pined to the rev limiter and nothing happend i would never do that to my baby im jus down in the dumps first time i hit the rev limiter and my world crashes down on me
How do you know it didn't loose power, have you driven the bike on the road since this happened?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ya that is true just knocked loud and died i should of said it didnt lose power until it died can i do a cmpression check with the moter off the bike if so how do i do it and what do i need to do it
 

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ya that is true just knocked loud and died i should of said it didnt lose power until it died can i do a cmpression check with the moter off the bike if so how do i do it and what do i need to do it

Yep, sure can. It would have been a lot easier with it still on the bike though.

You just need to accomplish getting that starter to turn over. It might be easier to use a car battery and a set of jumper cables than to try to use the cables and battery from the bike. Clamp positive to the starter + post and battery positive post, clamp negative to a spot with good contact on the block and then touch it to the battery negative post only when you want to actuate the starter. It's probably going to throw a spark when you touch the battery negative post so be ready for it. Disconnect the positive cable from the starter in between tests. I don't think you'll have a problem with the engine jumping from the initial torque, but I've never done it so I can't say for sure. It wouldn't be violent but again be ready for it.

Get a compression gauge, your going to need a 10mm(I think) adapter for the gauge to screw into the spark plug holes. I found that the adapter wouldn't catch any threads with the rubber o-ring still on the end when I did it, so pull it off if you have the same problem. You may show a lower compression than what you would have with it on, but what you'll be looking for is consistency of the numbers and if a valve broke it'll be obvious because there won't be any compression on that cylinder. Pull all the plugs and screw the adapter into the first hole, crank the engine over 5 revolutions, record the number and repeat for the other three.

Get back to us with the figures.
 

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can someone pleas help i was on the highway and the top end of my moter started knocking loud so i pulled of at the nearest exit and the bike died and wldnt start the temp gauge read 240 so i let the bike cool down and it fired back up but it was making a clicky clank noise very loud so i shut the bike down i checked the cct and it was fine all my valve clearances are good the cam chain looked good it is a 03 954 with 4255 miles what could be wrong were should i check next i had synthethic in the bike for about 900 miles and went back to honda 10w40 regular oil and this all happend the very next day i dnt think its because of that could it be a con rod with that low of miles any suggestions or has this happend to anyone else i hear of these bikes with 60000 miles i wld very much apriciate all the help i can get
Was the cooling system full?
Since you did an oil change the previous day I'd say that's the most likely problem. Did you replace the filter? How much new oil went into the engine? Have you dumped the oil to see if it's got any metal in it? Did you run the engine at all before putting oil back into it?
 

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Run a compression check. You can break the lip off a valve and the clearances will still be in spec. That valve is slamming really hard into the seat at red line. I won't get into how bad of an idea it is to red line an engine for that long because I think your about to find out.
If your engine is in good condition and properly maintained, redline won't hurt it. Bouncing the limiter with the engine not under load can do damage though as the RPM can go way above the limiter. The rev limiter is higher than the redline and both are marked higher on the tach than they really are.
 

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Pull all the plugs and screw the adapter into the first hole, crank the engine over 5 revolutions, record the number and repeat for the other three.
You also want to remove the throttle bodies or open the throttle plates fully.
And don't do a compression test if you've already drained the oil :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
when i drained the oil after the knock there was no metal in it and there was also no metal in it when i changed it the day before i did not run it wen i drained the oil i didnt change the filter because there was only about 900 miles on the filter so are you sayn that changing the oil caused the knock the radiator was full but not the overflow
 

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Discussion Starter #16
currently ther are no fluids in the motor and its out of the bike its at a freinds house he wont be home till sunday im just so frustrated i cant wait to take the head off to check the valves sucks i dont have my own garage any more sugestions i guess a compression test is to avoid taking the motor out :( well all suggestions help thanx guys:crying: :crying: :crying:
 

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when i drained the oil after the knock there was no metal in it and there was also no metal in it when i changed it the day before i did not run it wen i drained the oil i didnt change the filter because there was only about 900 miles on the filter so are you sayn that changing the oil caused the knock the radiator was full but not the overflow
No. I'm saying that since you changed the oil _immediately_ before the problem it has to be investigated as the prime suspect.
 

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i filled it to the top line on the site glass started it and then topped it off
Sure, but how much went in?
I'm trying to assess whether it had enough oil.
Without replacing the filter it should have taken almost 3.5 litres.
 

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currently ther are no fluids in the motor and its out of the bike its at a freinds house he wont be home till sunday im just so frustrated i cant wait to take the head off to check the valves sucks i dont have my own garage any more sugestions i guess a compression test is to avoid taking the motor out :( well all suggestions help thanx guys:crying: :crying: :crying:
I really don't understand why you would pull the motor before running some basic diagnosis tests.
Do a compression test unless there is some particular reason you want your engine in pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
basicly i know just enough to be dangerous i bought a gallon of oil and it took all of it except for about a half a quart i was so sure of it being the cct and wen it wasnt i think i jumped the gun big time there was some blueing on my cam lobes so i wanted to look at the valves and you have to pull the moter to get the head off i wish i wouldve posted before i started wrenching it had enough oil i check to make sure when it first happend it was at the top line in the sight glass i understand what your saying about the oil change do you think going from synthetic to regular oil would cause it to knock and stahl
 
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