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Discussion Starter #1
I recently tried to remove the intake flapper and tie the exhaust flapper open and as we all know it threw the fi light. I left out the bottom flapper in the intake and put everything else back with no issue. So my questions are 1. Could I cut the flappers both intake and exhaust so that there is just the pieces needed to keep the cables and servo functioning but restricting minimal air. Would that keep the fi from tripping out. And #2 has anyone used the blue monkey servo Eliminator I just recently found it and haven't found many people talking about it. Also wanted to add I had to replace my intake filter because the flapper was damaged somehow and it was hitting and eating into my filter which mad me very mad :mad:
 

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I recently tried to remove the intake flapper and tie the exhaust flapper open and as we all know it threw the fi light. I left out the bottom flapper in the intake and put everything else back with no issue. So my questions are 1. Could I cut the flappers both intake and exhaust so that there is just the pieces needed to keep the cables and servo functioning but restricting minimal air. Would that keep the fi from tripping out. And #2 has anyone used the blue monkey servo Eliminator I just recently found it and haven't found many people talking about it. Also wanted to add I had to replace my intake filter because the flapper was damaged somehow and it was hitting and eating into my filter which mad me very mad :mad:

The MIL has zero effect on the bike, just ignore it.
Remove the airbox flapper regardless, it serves no purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ya I know it doesn't effect the bike at least that's what I have read but I like a clean bike I don't want.the light to b on that's y I made the post to hopefully get some feedback from other 954rr lovers who have done the mods and when Iget the full micron exhaust im gonna have to bypass or override the light anyway which is y I was wondering about the the Eliminator but with so many product brands I was wanting some input on what people recommend
 

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im pretty sure if you just leave the servo motor plugged up it doesnt throw the FI light. just unhook the cables from the servo. take the cable out of the airbox hole n plug it n remove everything in the box. there is actually an article on how to make your own module to plug in where the servo motor would go that fools the ecu into thinking it still there. it works for some n not others tho reading the thread. im sure any of the servo delete modules you can buy probably work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was wondering if I took the cables off and left the servo hooked up if it would trick it into thinking it was still intact. I was gonna just cut the flaps so it would restrict anything hardly and just leave the cables hooked up. I've got a pc5 installed already and the map for no flaps ready to go onto it to correct the fuel/air. I just don't want any restriction well minimal anyway and no fi light cause I am picky like that lol I like a clean bike
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also off subject but how do I put a pic of my bike by my name lol so when I make posts it shows my name and my bike. Lol thanks for any help or suggestions this forum has always been a good help
 

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Heeza Y Zasch
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Also off subject but how do I put a pic of my bike by my name lol so when I make posts it shows my name and my bike. Lol thanks for any help or suggestions this forum has always been a good help
click on the "User CP" button, then on the left side of the screen click on "Edit Avatar". resize from your computer and upload.
 

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Also off subject but how do I put a pic of my bike by my name lol so when I make posts it shows my name and my bike. Lol thanks for any help or suggestions this forum has always been a good help

You need to become a supporting member - which costs $15 per annum.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh ok. So bladeracer what's ur input on taking out the flaps and cables and leaving the servo in place and hooked up will that keep the light from coming on I ask u because u r the moderator and have a lot of Rep points so I figure u would Prob know for. Sure
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Also wanted to add I've got a 2 bros carbon fiber exhaust with the flange to bolt onto the stock pipe and im thinking about cutting it in half because I want more sound and it is one of the long ones that comes clear back to the end of my tail I think it will look a lot better cut down to half the size and with half of the packing gone it should get a lot more sound too. What does everyone else think or know about this subject as well. I uploaded a pic of my bike to the member galleries if u want to see what im referring to. Any input is appreciated. I don't wanna get another exhaust cause when I go that route im gonna get the full micron. So im seeing what I can DIY. Until im ready to get the full exhaust which I know is the way to go
 

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If you pull the cables, but leave a functioning servo in, you will have no lights. My servo stripped out the gears so it wouldn't move anymore, but I could rotate it to get the FI light to go out. Eventually I got sick of playing with it, pulled the whole thing and just live with the light being on.
 

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as long as the servo is hooked up the FI light wont come on. but when your removing the cables ive heard that you want to not turn the servo motor or itll throw the light. im pretty sure at that point youd just reset it with the jumper.

if you really want the servo gone and dont wanna see the light look up "servo buddy" on ebay. or check the "articles" section on how to build your own servo buddy for next to nothing. you can get the parts from radio shack. its not going to give you much in the way of power either way. it does sound cooler without the flapper tho. you can hear the intake noise better.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ya I know I will not really get much more than sound out of taking out the flapers but I do want more sound and I also wanna know its getting the most air possible throughout all the rpms then im gonna put the pc5 map for a full exhaust with flapper removed. Which will correct the fuel for all the extra air and that should get me a Lil more in the bottom end at least. If im wrong on anything I have Said please someone let me know
 

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yeah, pc5 with the auto tune box, flapper delete and a full exhaust sounds about right....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So I got the cables off and I took the flap in the exhaust out to look at it before I fix it in a position and now I am wondering if I should put it in the positing that keeps all 4 pipes seperate or the position that slows the top two and the bottom two to mix. Someone please explain the pros and cons to me before I wield it into a position
 

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id think you could find a less permanent way to hold it one position or the other. the difference is going to be hard to feel but take it out riding in a few different positions n see what you think. i guess more of a closed position will help at lower n mid range torque and all the way open is best for top end power. if like most people you spend most of your time in low and mid range portion of the engine id say it might be best in the mid setting but if you spend all your time hunting full top speed it might be best open all the way. i doubt itll make a HUGE difference one way or the other but try it out n see what you think before you go welding it. like i said i think welding it might be a mistake because there has got to be a solution that allows you to change it in the future should you decide its best
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It has a deeper sound im the position that keeps all 4 pipes separate pretty much and if I did a full exhaust it would be 4. Separated pipes into 2 then 1 so im leaning towards that option and as far as wielding it I was gonna zip tie it but I don't wanna risk it coming undone and closing up on me while im leaning to kiss the ground in a turn or something I know that's the extreme way of thinking but I'd rather know its secure and im just gonna tack wield it anyway so a tap or chisel wouldn't make it to hard to break free and change it at a later time if I choose to go that way I just wondered if it would actually restrict it somehow in the position where the top two and bottom two mix. U know like cause some kind of back pressure or something im not the brightest bulb but I do put out some light lmao
 

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well yeah the idea is when its closed it gives it more low end torque and then it opens up when at wot letting the engine breath more making more high end hp. id opt for more low end torque because youll use more of that power everyday but like i said i doubt you can even really tell a difference.

i think you should just wire it in the two extremes n do a quick run on both positions and then come back and give us your opinions on the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Will do by the end of the night I will have a very personal opinion of both settings so anyone else wondering the same will have something to go off of. Unfortunately my computer is down at the moment so this will b a test with the map for a bolt on exhaust and an intake. Instead of having the map for full exhaust without flapper. But im sure the result will b close with either map :mad:
 

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ill be interested to see if you can tell any difference. like i said with it closed you would feel more low end torque and open youd get more high in the rpm hp. you know i think i remember people just pinning it in the middle position to kinda get the best of both. but i really think youll hafta pay very close attention to even tell a little difference but i could be wrong?
 
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