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Heeza Y Zasch
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As of right now I believe it's the ignition it's self cause u can give power and the bike will turn over
As trashed as the upper fairing stay(s) is/are, the BAS may not be oriented at the proper angle either. I advise bypassing it for now to omit it from troubleshooting. There are several threads on here to guide you.

Glad you're making progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Sorry it's been awhile since I've updated ok so old ignition was bad but now turn key on and the dash comes on but no back light also I have no horn or headlight or blinkers but I have tail light bike cranks I've switched relays and still nothing any ideas? I've been through the wiring diagram a million times and still clueless
 

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Sorry it's been awhile since I've updated ok so old ignition was bad but now turn key on and the dash comes on but no back light also I have no horn or headlight or blinkers but I have tail light bike cranks I've switched relays and still nothing any ideas? I've been through the wiring diagram a million times and still clueless
Check your fuses
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
So got a different harness... and now my lights come on but I still have no fuel prime but if I hard wire it the pump works, could I be looking at a bank angle sensor or wht should I be looking at? Yes I've check fuses and swapped relays, it still cranks like it should I'm so close but a lil lost, also I've tried bypassing the angle sensor and still no luck...
 

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Heeza Y Zasch
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Neutral Safety Switch and/or Clutch Safety Switch connections.

also, if you just swapped relays, that doesn't mean they're all good. selective interchange with a NEW relay(s) is a far more proper means of troubleshooting.

has anyone recommended disassembling the bar-mounted EMERGENCY kill switch; cleaning, lubricating, and reassembling it yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Ok I'll look at those but I figured itd still prime. And previous owner just spliced the kill switch together if tht makes sense but ima get a new one just wanna make sure the bike is ready to go before I start all the. And question could it be a neutral switch even if the neutral light is on the dash?
 

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Heeza Y Zasch
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no it will not prime if that switch isn't in the RUN position.

...and I'm not sure (neutral light question).
I really think you should tear the bike apart, and (with skematics in hand) go wire-by-wire, coneection-to-connection, and check the whole dang thing. I'm tellin' ya... I chased problems for YEARS with my RR2 (formerly totaled and rebuilt) until I just committed to it, and haven't had as much as a blown bulb since. Believe me when I say it'll be worth it in the long run. I even approve of bypassing safeties (BAS, EMERGENCY kill, sidestand) while doing this :thumb:
 
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
That's pretty much what I've been doin that and fixing previous owners mess up. And I already wanted to bypass the bas and sidestand and kill switch due to the number of issues ppl have seemed to have while searching for tips and ideas on here
 

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Heeza Y Zasch
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glad to know SOMEone is listening/reading :deal: :cheers:
 

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Heeza Y Zasch
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I'm not 100% certain, but I believe 9v.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Ok thanks I was reading around and some were saying tht the diode in the ignition could cause the symptoms I'm having but no one would say how much or anything
 

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I'm only getting .13v?
.13 or 13? And your checking DC voltage, yes?

If it is .13 VDC on your pink wire at the ECU you have a problem. Needs to be in the area of 9 VDC.

If you want to really rule it out, cut the pink, put a 9v battery in line on the pink and see if it primes and/or fires. If so, there’s your problem, which could be a bad ignition/and or bad Zener diode.
 

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Yes it's only .13 vdc and ok I just put in a new switch so wht can be done if it's the diode
Check the bottom of the new switch vs the old switch. The old switch is on the left in this pic, with the pink wire. The new Ebay switch is on the right, no pink wire. The old switch is missing the diode, as it is supposed to be in the little black nook, just above where the pink wire is soldered in.

DCD5E3B4-0532-42F1-86F6-CF328D00262B.jpeg

Add an inline Zener diode on the pink wire.
 
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