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Discussion Starter #1
My friends that RC51s have all done these mods, and insist that I need to do them to my 1000RR. My questions are: What do these mods do for you? Are the appropriate for both street and track? Are there any warranty issues when you do this? Are there instructions, resources, parts available for doing this on the 1000RR? Is a power commander required to take advantage of these mods?

Thanks in advance.
 

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I doubt the person that wrote that artical knows much about vacum leaks. Never and I mean never block a vacum line with a screw or bolt, it will always leak vacum right up the threads of the screw or bolt. Even minor vacum leaks can cause big problems down the line.
 

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In my own personal experiences (something like 13 or 14 bikes since I've been riding, many of them well modded, a few of them not), I've found there is little to be gained in the PAIR and flapper mods.

The HTEV is another story. Unless you're going to have a custom mapped Power Commander added to the mix, I'd vote for leaving the valve intact and operational; it provides you with some real world grunt you'd otherwise not have.

Too many guys get caught up in chasing a number on the dyno (I know, I've been there). You might bump your 1KRR's peak output a few hp by installing one of those straight-through HTEV replacement pieces or locking it open and adding a PCIII, but you'll likely only move the powerband up the face of the tach a bit.

It's a streetbike, right? Torque is where it's at, not peak power. At least that's the way I see it.

My vote is, leave your 1000 alone and just ride it.
 

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There is NO performance gain from the PAIR mod. Basically you are removing the added O2 from entering the exhaust when you block it all off. The only benefits are reduced popping on decel with a closed throttle. The ability to check the valves without removing the PAIR system(big 2min gain) and when custom mapping, you dont have to block it off again. In other words, no power or rideabilty gains.
It's like removing the smog pump form a car, it dosent do anything but reduce emissions and take up space.
 

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Yes, I did remove the intake flapper and the solenoid and the canister and all of the hoses that go with it. It seemed to rev better from the low end and it definitely made the intake louder. Necessary? , no. Worth it?, didn't cost anything.

It's your bike, Good Luck.
 

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freq said:
Yes, I did remove the intake flapper and the solenoid and the canister and all of the hoses that go with it. It seemed to rev better from the low end and it definitely made the intake louder. Necessary? , no. Worth it?, didn't cost anything.

It's your bike, Good Luck.
Did the same on my 51 minus removing the whole system which i will finish off over the winter. Definately sounds a bit louder and revs better.

Oh and dont listen to Chain hes a little loopy :rolleyes:
 

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freq said:
Don't listen to him. He's fighting some demons. :gve:
:cool:

Nope freq, changed man, honest. Although I will admit, loud sucking noises are pretty cool. Uh, from the intake area of a hot bike is what I mean of course. :p
 

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Chain said:
I've found there is little to be gained in the PAIR and flapper mods.
Per ROGUE, WStaab, LDH.......the flapper prohibited achieving a smooth curve on the RC so it is a functional mod unless you like dips on your dyno charts. I never dynoed my RC in stock trim, but I do know that there are NO dips on my post flapper, Sato, PC3 chart.
Flapper Info

Chain said:
My vote is, leave your 1000 alone and just ride it.
Unlike everyone else around here, I won't take a cheapshot at ya on this one. It's too easy. :evilaugh:

Bottom line, if you want to remove a few ounces of useless weight on your bike, go for it! :thumb:
 

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If you didn't run it on the dyno in stock trim, you've nothing to compare it to, thus flapper mod improvements on your machine are speculative at best.

:cheers:
 

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Chain said:
It's a streetbike, right? Torque is where it's at, not peak power. At least that's the way I see it.

My vote is, leave your 1000 alone and just ride it.
Agree if you want to get different tires or bars or plastic mods, etc fine. However the thing I like the most on my 1000RR is the smooth power curve (and lots of power) this makes it very rideable. You might want to alter this if you are on the track but I would leave great enough alone on the street. :idunno:

Spend $$$ on safety gear vs parts and time on riding vs moding ;)

EDIT: I would also point out that anyone that is out riding the stock engine on a 1000RR should be on a track <END RANT/>
 

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Chain said:
If you didn't run it on the dyno in stock trim, you've nothing to compare it to, thus flapper mod improvements on your machine are speculative at best.
Agreed, but I was taking into account the 100's of dyno runs WStaab, LDH and Co have done to solve the dip and diagnose the cause (Flapper). Certainly two of the most RC-savvy people in the industry have done their homework. Not to mention that the maps DK provides to everyone are done with the flapper and pair mods factored in. What does Dan Kyle know anyway? :evilaugh:

Maybe it's just a conspiracy to have people remove something from their bike that is secretly important? :smilebig:
 

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I see folks compairing the RC mods to the RR. I don't know if there is a dip in the RC dynos, but I haven't seen one in the RR. I wouldn't base my decision on what was done on another type bike. V-twin vs. straight four, etc.
 

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clutchslip said:
I see folks compairing the RC mods to the RR. I don't know if there is a dip in the RC dynos, but I haven't seen one in the RR. I wouldn't base my decision on what was done on another type bike. V-twin vs. straight four, etc.
You have one ;) According to your butt dyno the curve is nice and smooth right? Either that or mine is exceptional because the power/torque just seems to be this nice exponential curve :idunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks to everybody who replied. It sounds like what I am hearing is that these mods do not do a lot for performance, except the HTEV, which would require PCIII to take advantage of. It also sounds like the other two improve sound and reduce weight a little bit.
I think in my case I will take Chain's advise and leave it all alone. I don't care about sound and I am sure that rider weight reduction has bigger margin to work on.
Thanks again for the education!
 
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