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Discussion Starter #1
I would like ask your input or comment who has done a 15/44 gearing combination. I have been thinking of doing this modification. Is this good for street and track? How does the bike behave on this gearing?

Thanks
sloduck
 

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I love it. Only drawback is that your speedo will be even farther off, however, an ahlman box will fixe that. Well worth the $90.00 and your odometer will love you as well.

I like the extra low end grunt when twisty riding. I'm not shifting thru gears as much. For $30.00, it's the best and cheapest 'bang for your buck' mod.
 

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I have the sprockets and the Ahlmans box but haven't installed them yet. I will let you know after this next week at Deal's Gap.
 

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This is my next mod as well....hoping it will reduce the need to use 1st gear in the twisties....
 

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I've also done the 15/44 combo and I like it. I chose it partly because the stock chain fits with this combo. I'll wait and do the 520 conversion when my stock chain wears out. It seems to accelerate quicker. One change I liked on the track was the slow hairpin turn-I felt like I couldn't decide between first and second on that turn, and the rpms were never high enough, giving that annoying on/off feeling. With this gearing, I can be in second and, since the rpms are higher, it's smoother going around that turn. It's still fine for highway riding, too, as near as I can tell so far.
 

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For the track, you need to lose the xx/xx mentality and find the gearing that allows you to just hit redline in 6th gear on the fastest part of the circuit. Since the Blade's gearbox isn't exactly 'adjustable' at the track, this technique usually gives you the best drive throughout the track, while utilizing all of the resources of your bike. On a short track, that might mean 15/50 and at Daytona or Road America, it might mean 16/42. On some VERY short tracks, you may find it best to go with something more conventional (say 15/46) and just run the bike as a 5 speed. This has proven to be the best overall guide for gearing, as the lower gearing usually affords the rider better drive off of the slower corners, yet allows the bike to attain it's highest speed on the straights.
 

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Yup, what Abtech said. Unfortunately the one really small track I frequent would probably need a 60 tooth rear sprocket to allow me to get into 6th gear! Ok, I'm exaggerating a bit. In my case, I'm just trying to find a balance between the several different tracks I run, and the street. I realize I'm compromising both, but it's better than stock gearing for me.
 

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If you are doing quite a few trackdays and/or getting into the amateur racing scene, I agree 1000% with ABTECH.

For us occasional trackdayers and canyon riders, I would think the 15t front is more than sufficient until you decide to change chain/sprocket, then you might want to bump up the rear, or do the 520 conversion.
 

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Politely asked questions:

For road-going motorcycles, why gear the bike down when it's already nearly incapable of WFO 1st gear acceleration w/o wheelies?

You'd shift MORE, not LESS, with altered gearing, right? If the motor spins quicker due to the deeper gearing, I'd have to believe you'd be shifting more quickly more often rather than the other way around. Am I wrong about this?

With the added expense of the speedo recalibration, diminished fuel mileage on road trips, etc., is gearing the right thing to do even for we riders who don't do trackdays?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks you all!!!! Went ahead ordered a 15T front, I already have the rear for 44. So is this mean that some of turn that I do on 2nd gear need to be on 3rd?
 

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Chain : Politely asked questions:

For road-going motorcycles, why gear the bike down when it's already nearly incapable of WFO 1st gear acceleration w/o wheelies?

You'd shift MORE, not LESS, with altered gearing, right? If the motor spins quicker due to the deeper gearing, I'd have to believe you'd be shifting more quickly more often rather than the other way around. Am I wrong about this?

With the added expense of the speedo recalibration, diminished fuel mileage on road trips, etc., is gearing the right thing to do even for we riders who don't do trackdays?
I like to keep the revs up on the bike, so for me its the convenience of not having to do the relatively clunky downshift into first for slow corners......

Plus, imho, this decreases the chances of a false neutral......
 

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SLODUCK : Thanks you all!!!!  Went ahead ordered a 15T front, I already have the rear for 44.  So is this mean that some of turn that I do on 2nd gear need to be on 3rd?
I agree w/Ab----for a racebike--but if you are still riding your bike on the street---15/44 sounds pretty good

Slo- for the tracks that we frequent--15/46/47(T-Hill) would probably ne optimal, but I have found that 15/45 is a pretty good combo--its approx 10% reduction--and it makes it a little buzy--if you have the need to go 160mph on the freeway---at least thats what LTL (love-to -lob)  told me
 

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Chain : Politely asked questions:

For road-going motorcycles, why gear the bike down when it's already nearly incapable of WFO 1st gear acceleration w/o wheelies?

You'd shift MORE, not LESS, with altered gearing, right? If the motor spins quicker due to the deeper gearing, I'd have to believe you'd be shifting more quickly more often rather than the other way around. Am I wrong about this?

With the added expense of the speedo recalibration, diminished fuel mileage on road trips, etc., is gearing the right thing to do even for we riders who don't do trackdays?
Me personally, I rarely spend much -- if any -- time in first gear.  I usually cruise my favorite roads in third or fourth so gearing the bike down would give me a little more pull in those gears, but I would be a bit more wheelie prone in second.  That being said, I like the stock gearing because I'm not pulling as hard as I can out of turns on the street.

I'm personally considering a gearing change because I'm starting to attend more trackdays.
 

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For about 10k miles I've been running the stock 530 chain with 15T front and the stock 43T rear. I loved the one down in the front. But it just got 5 times better.

Now I'm running 15T/44T with a 520 chain. WOW! Granted my rear wheel moved from the second last notch to the second notch from the front; and the new rear sprocket is about 1lbs lighter; the bike feels great all over with the smaller chain. Throttle response it even faster. It feel so smooth and aggressive. I'm excited to ride it again!

I got the conversion with the front/rear sprockets from Dan at kyleusa.com for $235 or so. Great buy if you need a new chain anyway.

Paul
 

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About the 520 conversion, does it hold up well? I continue to hear the 520 is a bad idea for 929/954 owners as I hear that it isn't as strong as the 530. I'm not racing, will do 5 or less trackdays this year and ride my blade everyday to work and to the canyon. WHen my chain wears out, should I 520 it? What's the REAL SCOOP on this.
 

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redwhite929rr : Now I'm running 15T/44T with a 520 chain. WOW!
This is what I run for gearing/chain and like it other then the fact that I'm always going for seventh on the highway. I see a excuse to buy a digi gear indicator maybe?
 

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Now I learned something new today. I had no idea sprocket selection was such an important consideration when racing. That added strategy will add a whole new dimension when watching SBK racing.
 

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Tank69 : About the 520 conversion, does it hold up well?  I continue to hear the 520 is a bad idea for 929/954 owners as I hear that it isn't as strong as the 530.  I'm not racing, will do 5 or less trackdays this year and ride my blade everyday to work and to the canyon.  WHen my chain wears out, should I 520 it?  What's the REAL SCOOP on this.
tank69,

When I did a search on this forum about chain strength between the 530 and 520, most poeple said they are just as strong. Some stated high mileage on their 520s. I figure my 530 lasted me about 16k. I'm expecting at least that on the new 520.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Received the 15T yesterday and will install it tomorrow and then ride it over the weekend. I will give my input by Tuesday.

Thanks
 

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Tank69 : About the 520 conversion, does it hold up well?  I continue to hear the 520 is a bad idea for 929/954 owners as I hear that it isn't as strong as the 530.  I'm not racing, will do 5 or less trackdays this year and ride my blade everyday to work and to the canyon.  WHen my chain wears out, should I 520 it?  What's the REAL SCOOP on this.
Hey tank i'm also wondering about getting a 520 for my bike?? the question is since we have to buy a new chain anyway, should we go 520? will it hold up to hard street riding? how long will it last also?
 
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