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1984 Honda CB650SC

9K views 62 replies 7 participants last post by  IanDoohan 
#1 ·
New project folks: a friends bike that hasn’t run in about 5 years.

Already found rodents, eaten wires, and a ruined air filter. Can’t keep a good wrencher down lol
 

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#4 ·
I love old school sport bikes. Pull the tank, and the airbox is right there waiting for you to be removed.

This bike is much different. Pull the rear cowling off. Remove the rear inner fender, remove the left rear shock, Reg/rec, ECU, starter solenoid, battery, battery tray, then finally the rear wheel. Then the airbox comes out the rear.

And the snorkels from the box to the carbs fall off because they were not installed properly from years ago. But it’s the only way to get these items clean. Can’t wait to see what the carbs present. Hopefully there already spotless :idunno:
 

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#8 ·
Yup, I’m waiting for this to go bad any day now lol

I'd subscribe to this one, but I feel I'll have difficulty keeping up :deal: :smilebig:

I'll subscribe anyway
This one will be easy. Some tires, carb clean, for seals and a test ride. Sounds simple, right? :crap: :hmm:
 
#13 ·
Put some time into the carbs. They were cleaner than I expected. That’s a good thing. Less hard parts to try and find. And while I’m cleaning the carbs, might as well clean the pistola as well :eyebrows:
 

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#14 ·
Also got a bunch of new stainless screws, as the OE ones were buggured up pretty good from prior abuse. And the rebuild begins.
 

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#16 ·
I don’t. I wish I did. I waste a lot of time using cans of carb clean, q-tips, scotch brite pads, etc. I fill a bucket with Dawn, use the green AND blue Simple Green, and scrub a lot. I have a set of Honda jet cleaner rods, and if I have a small passage that the smallest won’t fit in, I use a single strand of braided copper wire. I could really do with a small parts washer, or ultrasonic tank.

What I do have, that I use every now and then, is the service department at my local Honda dealer :eyebrows: As I used to manage it.
 

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#21 ·
Getting the forks off, they’re gonna need a lot of work. The tubes are rusty and have some pits, but nothing in the portion where the seal slides.

Had a great day with 45 degree F temps. Then less than 24 hours later we had 5” of the fluffy stuff. What a bummer.

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#24 ·
It’s anti-dive I don’t know what the TRAC acronym stands for so I had to look it up.

TRAC (Torque Reactive Anti-dive Control): This was fitted to a number of Honda motorcycles such as the CB1100F, CB1000C, and VFR750F and worked by utilizing a pivoting caliper that activated a valve in the fork leg.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Good eyes Bill, yes they will go by way of the bin. My buddy has the OEM’s “allegedly”, so they will go back on. And it does look kind of “mechanically buggish” in that last picture, like a Transformer or something.


It’s anti-dive I don’t know what the TRAC acronym stands for so I had to look it up.

TRAC (Torque Reactive Anti-dive Control): This was fitted to a number of Honda motorcycles such as the CB1100F, CB1000C, and VFR750F and worked by utilizing a pivoting caliper that activated a valve in the fork leg.
Well done Gunk, although you cheated, it’s nice to see you had enough interest to seek out the answer. It was neat idea, back in the day of ridiculously small diameter forks, and overly “porky” motorcycles. The system itself was marginally effective, as a stronger set of fork springs would cure the front end dive with less weight. Now it’s a chore to have to replace all the deteriorated rubber bushings and seals. I have most, but will probably need to order more.

Hopefully I won’t have to “dive” too far into the internals as they’re mostly discontinued.
 
#27 ·
Been fiddling with the front end of the “Sierra Charlie”. My buddy has Haines manual and it’s not as good as an OEM Honda one, so even I had to refer to some Google help with the TRAC unit. I know some parts are now discontinued internally on the unit, but I just couldn’t NOT take it apart to clean it out. So I did, and also got rid of some of the black looking overspray of black paint that seemed to only be on the extreme rear of the unit. A guy who was trying to rebuild his on an older Goldwing (same TRAC set up). Also, as expected, the retaining C-clips that hold the fork seal in place were heavily rusted and very brittle. Fairly typical, so I had already ordered 2 to have on hand.

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#28 ·
The TRAC housing cleaned up nicely. As did the lower leg. The tube itself however has some significant pitting, thankfully though, nothing in the seal’s travel path. Also, when taking the TRAC side fork cap off, there was still spring pressure on the cap, so I was careful not to let it launch across the garage. HOWEVER, when doing the right side fork cap, it came off under NO pressure. :idunno:

I could see the top of the thin steel spacer, but it was jammed up somehow and wouldn’t come out. For fear that if I looked over the open tube, I took a photo from the top, looking down into the tube. Well now, what you see here is the steel washer previously installed IMPROPERLY, and was partiall stuck inside the lower part of the spacer, jamming it up against the inner wall of the fork tube. I was able to get it out without issue.

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#30 ·
Lots to show on this refurbish. The fork seals are done, but the tubes unfortunately were pretty rusty and pitted. The right one was all above the seal sliding area, but there was a substantial divot on the left tube. It will undoubtedly ruin the seal at some point. The calipers and master cylinder were a total mess, with tan sludge in the calipers, and black sludge in the master cylinder. Everything cleaned up fairly good, and all was rebuilt with fresh seals and a rebuild kit.

Next up is the clutch. I got every replacement part available for this. I remember back in the day when we would remove the slave cylinder everything there would be a mess. So I preempted that mess with a wholesale parts order. That will be updated in a few days. Here are all the pics between a few posts.

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#34 ·
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I got the master cleaned out really good. There was very little corrosion, just typical rust around the circlip because of the failed dust boot. I guess that was in an earlier post. Oh well lol. I also was able to uncover the sight glass, but it’s still about cloudy. It will at least do the job intended now.
 
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