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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All 3 yellow wires are connected to the stator and the bike runs with a jump, but there are 3 solid yellow wires that dont go to the alternator, but come out of the wiring loom that are cut..i looked on the diagrams on here and can find a second set of 3 yellow solid wire. Also everything else on the bike works perfect, it. Just wont charge the battery. Please help :patriot:
 

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I am sure someone like bladeracer will be able to respond. However, if you don't get an answer before then, nudge again at the weekend and I will dig out a spare loom and have a look for you...I won't be able to access my spare parts stash until the weekend)...

Not sure if my spare loom is a 1993, but I suspect those wires will be consistent...

Alternatively, look up the wiring diagrams and perhaps by a Clymer or Haynes manual....

Good look...
 

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All 3 yellow wires are connected to the stator and the bike runs with a jump, but there are 3 solid yellow wires that dont go to the alternator, but come out of the wiring loom that are cut..i looked on the diagrams on here and can find a second set of 3 yellow solid wire. Also everything else on the bike works perfect, it. Just wont charge the battery. Please help :patriot:
Here is the be all end all of all charging system diagnostics:

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf


The 3 yellow wires are the OEM AC wires. They come OUT of the left side cover (stator), and "should" go into a connector under the seat behind the battery. From that connector they go into the Regulator/Rectifier on the right side sub frame. Each yellow is One Phase of the 3 phase charging system. A failure on any phase will severely restrict proper charging.

Is this a "new problem", or did you just get the bike in this condition?

And as always, pictures are worth a thousand words. Post up a pic or 10 of the wires from the stator, and the wires that are cut. The 3 yellows are specific to the charging system, and you shouldn't find any others in the loom anywhere.

Hope that helps, but get some pics up:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Pictures!! I just got the bike, previous owner said the bike had no issues other than the slippery clutch, then the battery died at the gas station and i found the wires. :hmm: i payed 1800, did i pay too much? :confused: 19,200 miles onthe bike, loose chain, starts and run fine. Thankyou for the fast relpys :thumb:
 

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It looks like the 3 that are cut go to the connector behind the battery. And it's my bet is they go nowhere from there. Judging from the individual pins connected to the reg/rec, the connectors were melted at one point and either the stator, reg/reg or both have been replaced already, at least once.

She's a good looking 93:thumb:

Start with a fresh, known good battery and run through those checks I posted the link to.
 

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Yeah, pretty much what I expected. The PO bypassed the original connector and harness. The 3 cut yellows are in the harness that attaches to that white clamp with the Phillips screw holding it down. Here's your pic:




My 900:

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
So i removed lots of tape and found the wires :) there is a black wire that turns yellow as it goes,(picture below) does it matter? So im going to wire the stator back to the wires behind the battery, (?new quick release connector?)then connect the wires that are on the side to the connector that goes to the reg/rec. That wouldn't fix my charging problem? That would be good putting back to the original setup, mabe its the old red/white and green wires may have a bad connection and may be causing the problem. So excited to get this bike working properly!
 

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You're right about it not solving any charging issue, and it might just be more work than you need to do. Sometimes aftermarket stators use black insulated wires for their stators, it doesn't matter.

I would be questioning the reg/rec, as it looks like a cheapo knock off of an OEM one. In order to properly test your stators AC output though you will need access to your currently connected 3 yellows. Again, following the procedures in the aforementioned link.

If you want to get back to the OEM look, go to Ebay, or your local Honda dealer and get one of these:



And one of these:

 

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You're right about it not solving any charging issue, and it might just be more work than you need to do. Sometimes aftermarket stators use black insulated wires for their stators, it doesn't matter.

I would be questioning the reg/rec, as it looks like a cheapo knock off of an OEM one. In order to properly test your stators AC output though you will need access to your currently connected 3 yellows. Again, following the procedures in the aforementioned link.

If you want to get back to the OEM look, go to Ebay, or your local Honda dealer and get one of these:



And one of these:

How much was the honda kit?
 

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How much was the honda kit?
I don't have the numbers right on hand, but it wasn't terrible. Not Ebay prices (but as you can imagine the Honda bits are a better quality), I think together they were both under 30 US. :idunno: I can look to see, I would have to dive in the GIANT bag of receipts. lol
 

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Here is the be all end all of all charging system diagnostics:

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf


The 3 yellow wires are the OEM AC wires. They come OUT of the left side cover (stator), and "should" go into a connector under the seat behind the battery. From that connector they go into the Regulator/Rectifier on the right side sub frame. Each yellow is One Phase of the 3 phase charging system. A failure on any phase will severely restrict proper charging.

Is this a "new problem", or did you just get the bike in this condition?

And as always, pictures are worth a thousand words. Post up a pic or 10 of the wires from the stator, and the wires that are cut. The 3 yellows are specific to the charging system, and you shouldn't find any others in the loom anywhere.

Hope that helps, but get some pics up:thumb:
This isnt my thread but I'm having similar issues.ive narrowed it down to either ignition switch,stator,or fuel pump issues.sometimes I'll fully charge my battery and only get one ride,but when I hook up my jump box all itll do is turn over ,i feel like its probably the fuel pump or ignition switch
 

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What year is your bike?

take the fuel pump out if the equation by going straight to carbs from tank. I suppose if there was a draw from a bad pump it could kill your battery over time, But these bikes will run just fine without the fuel pump attached.
The best way to make sure your battery is still good to put a meter on it and check it when you thumb the starter. Your meter may show static voltage of 12 point something, but when you thumb the start button and it goes down to under 10 or thereabouts, your battery is done. Once these batteries get drained they very rarely recover. And in a situation like that, The battery is not getting charged properly by the stator and/or the regulator rectifier.

You may have a parasitic draw somewhere, but just know that your battery should not die after a ride, meaning if you’re riding in the bike dies that’s a charging and/or battery problem. If you write it and it’s fine for however many miles, and then shut it off and come back to it hours later and it’s dead, that could be a parasitic draw.

parasitic draw on these bikes is very very rare, when battery start going dead 99.9% of the time it’s a charging system component.
 

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"parasitic draw on these bikes is very very rare, when battery start going dead 99.9% of the time it’s a charging system component."

- unless you've a dodgy old datatool/Meta alarm on there from the 1990's!!
 
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