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Discussion Starter #1
Picked up a good running 1993 CBR900rr with 31k miles for a good price. Engine ran well, shifted well, brakes were tired, suspension worn out, and ancient tires.





Original body panels with a few blemishes, and a nasty tank dent. Tach not working, old rusty chain and sprockets, rusty old exhaust. Bike looked to be in original condition the only aftermarket mod being a Dynatech 2000 electronic ignition.








After taking it home and going through it, the fork stanchions were badly corroded and pitted, and the fork seals leaked badly. The suspension felt like an old couch and the bike felt like it wanted to tip over in slow corners. Brakes were mush.





I decided to do the usual maintenance - oil and filter, fuel filter, air filter, OEM plugs. Bike would need new chain and sprockets so I went for a 520 Renthal kit -1/+2 and an EK gold chain. Tach was fixed by reconnecting a ground wire for the tach. Bike had a K&N air filter which fit better than the replacement I ordered. I picked up a used Two Brothers full stainless exhaust on ebay for $150.

Fork stanchions did not clean up too well - pitted beyond usable. New ones from Race-Tech were $240 each, found new ones on ebay from Hong Kong for $110/pair. Ordered a Racetech .9 fork springs for my weight, and new seals/bushings. Went ahead and wire brushed the fork lowers and repainted them. Ordered a YSS rear shock ($350) too as the Showa factory rear is non-rebuildable(?). New Zero Gravity smoked windscreen and some new Bridgestone S20's (old tires were 2001 manufacture!)





 

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next on the list is to do a proper brake fluid change with Motul, install the rear shock when it arrives, and do a basic suspension set-up. I am on the fence about changing the turn signals and rear fender. Its a classic and I don't want to muddy it up too much. Also I found a shop that can repair and paint the tank for about $400, and it will need a reseal of the inside because of corrosion
 

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next on the list is to do a proper brake fluid change with Motul, install the rear shock when it arrives, and do a basic suspension set-up. I am on the fence about changing the turn signals and rear fender. Its a classic and I don't want to muddy it up too much. Also I found a shop that can repair and paint the tank for about $400, and it will need a reseal of the inside because of corrosion
She looks AWESOME:thumb: Keep it original and don't booger up the signals, keep em stock. And if anything, get an original fender eliminator kit to tidy up the rear. If you can find one it still uses the original signals.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Rear YSS shock arrived and installed. No more worn out sofa feeling


 

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Love the way you are going about re-building the bike. The ol' girl is surely getting a lot of TLC.

Fork stanchions did not clean up too well - pitted beyond usable. found new ones on ebay from Hong Kong for $110/pair.
Could you please give me a link to the item on ebay? preferably the guy you bought it from. How good are the tubes quality wise?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Love the way you are going about re-building the bike. The ol' girl is surely getting a lot of TLC.


Could you please give me a link to the item on ebay? preferably the guy you bought it from. How good as the tubes quality wise?

aaamotorhk on eBay

They were perfect copies!
 

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Love what you're doing with this. Have to agree the american colour schemes were dope. Especially this one. Kinda camo'ed against your garage floor though mate!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Now going to do some brake maintenance. The brakes are very soft and only start to bite after multiple stops. The cold bite is alarmingly weak. The existing calipers appear to be in decent condition.

Upon inspection of the front pads they appear to be EBC "green stuff" pads with decent pad life left. Green stuff pads were popular for a short period with the BMW E36 M3 crowd for keeping the wheels dust free but later the pads fell out of favor when it was discovered how useless they were under the stress of performance driving.

The brake lines appear to be original units so I am planning on replacing the lines with stainless steel Galfer units and putting new EBC HH pads up front. The rotors are in good condition. Hopefully a good flush and bleed with Motul RBF600 will sharpen up the braking on this bike. I'll know by next weekend
 

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i cant recommend the cl xbk5 pads enough. ebc makes great pads as well but i think the xbk5 are better performing.
 

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Upon inspection of the front pads they appear to be EBC "green stuff" pads with decent pad life left. Green stuff pads were popular for a short period with the BMW E36 M3 crowd for keeping the wheels dust free but later the pads fell out of favor when it was discovered how useless they were under the stress of performance driving.
"Green stuff" is an automotive pad material only only, I'm pretty sure EBC never introduced this for bikes. They do a number of sintered pads, a couple of carbon pads and an organic pads but none of them are marketed as "xxx stuff"

I don't think you can beat OEM pads
You can easily beat OEM pads in terms of performance, even on modern superbikes. OEM pads are probably quieter, kinder to the discs, and maybe dust less.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
"Green stuff" is an automotive pad material only only, I'm pretty sure EBC never introduced this for bikes. They do a number of sintered pads, a couple of carbon pads and an organic pads but none of them are marketed as "xxx stuff"

I could not find Green Stuff pads on the EBC website for moto, but these pads are bright green and printed with EBC on them. I was just assuming they stopped manufacturing this compound for bikes
 

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Mystery solved :) I did a bit more digging, looks like the older EBC organic/kevlar pads were painted green, but they are now black. They weren't branded as "Green stuff".

 
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