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Discussion Starter #1
Hiya All,

Questions spawning from another thread:

One gripe - 2nd gear is a pig to get into. Especially compared to the CBR400 silky smooth change. The number of times it Clciks like crazy, until it engages!



Questions:

1) Is that expensive major "engine" work to cure, or is it relatively cheaper "crack open engine case, replace 2nd gear cog, replace"????

2) Is it a common "live with it" problem - for 1995_1998 CBR600s?

3) Getting a replacement Cog - forget it in the 2nd hand market?


Any advice?


Cheers
Martin
 

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mine did the same then after a while it kept slipping out of 2nd gear. At the end of the day i had to strip out the motor and dovetailed the 2nd gear dog, cost me nothing but if a shop had to do it they would ask anywhere from 270USD to 330USD pretty pricey
 

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Discussion Starter #3
mine did the same then after a while it kept slipping out of 2nd gear. At the end of the day i had to strip out the motor and dovetailed the 2nd gear dog, cost me nothing but if a shop had to do it they would ask anywhere from 270USD to 330USD pretty pricey

Hiya Twiggy,


Happy new year! 8)


Um... what does "dovetailed the 2nd gear dog" mean?
Is that a bit of lathe work, to marry up worn out cogs???

Works out cheaper than replacing a bad cog??

Hope you can advise!


Cheers
Martin
 

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Happy new year to you too.

It is cheaper to dovetail a cog but its quite difficult to explain without illustrations, on the cog there are 4 gears that hook into the next, now what happens is that they get rounded at the edges and when pressure is put on it slips out like a stripped screw, what you then do is use a grinder to dovetail the gear, by dovetail I mean __
\ / make this type of shape on both gears so that they slot nicely into each other.

The fact that you say it is noisy when you change into second lets me think that you have a fualty selecter which is a wishbone shape which pushes the cog into place. the selecter is fairly cheap.

note that if the selecter is faulty and you carry on driving as you are it will cause your cogs to become stripped. and you sit with a more seriouse problem.
 

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Happy new year to you too.

It is cheaper to dovetail a cog but its quite difficult to explain without illustrations, on the cog there are 4 gears that hook into the next, now what happens is that they get rounded at the edges and when pressure is put on it slips out like a stripped screw, what you then do is use a grinder to dovetail the gear, by dovetail I mean __
\ / make this type of shape on both gears so that they slot nicely into each other.

The fact that you say it is noisy when you change into second lets me think that you have a fualty selecter which is a wishbone shape which pushes the cog into place. the selecter is fairly cheap.

note that if the selecter is faulty and you carry on driving as you are it will cause your cogs to become stripped. and you sit with a more seriouse problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Happy new year to you too.

It is cheaper to dovetail a cog but its quite difficult to explain without illustrations, on the cog there are 4 gears that hook into the next, now what happens is that they get rounded at the edges and when pressure is put on it slips out like a stripped screw, what you then do is use a grinder to dovetail the gear, by dovetail I mean __
\ / make this type of shape on both gears so that they slot nicely into each other.

The fact that you say it is noisy when you change into second lets me think that you have a fualty selecter which is a wishbone shape which pushes the cog into place. the selecter is fairly cheap.

note that if the selecter is faulty and you carry on driving as you are it will cause your cogs to become stripped. and you sit with a more seriouse problem.

Hiya Twiggy,

Its only 2nd gear that I have this issue though.

Is the Selector used for all the gears? If so, could I eliminate this from the list of probable causes?


BTW;
The Chain is worn, with a pronounced tightspot. The Chain slack is ok though..... Could this exacerbate the "2nd Gar selction" issue?


Cheers
Martin
 

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Remember there is nuetral between 1st and 2nd so that is why it starts there. the selecter gets thin basicaly losing 1 or 2mm can cause problems. I also thought it was normal but after a while your bike starts jumping out of gear once in a while and then you cant get second anymore so prevention is better than cure.

"BTW;
The Chain is worn, with a pronounced tightspot. The Chain slack is ok though..... Could this exacerbate the "2nd Gar selction" issue?"

This will not affect it in anyway.

by the way is your chain tight when the link is just entering your rear sprocket?

Mine does that and it would be interesting to know if it is commen ware or if my sprockets are wrong.

But replace your chain if your sprockets arent worn cause its gonna mess them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
kk found a part catalogue for you too see the gear for yourself
http://hawkworks.net/F3-fiche/transmission.gif

Cant remember so well but i think 14 or 17 is the second gear and you will see it has 5 knobs 14 slots into 9 now those are the ones that have to be dovetailed

1998 Honda CBR 600 F3 partsfiche

1,2,3 are selecters in this pic I think no 4 was also slightly worn on my bike

Um.... Have to do workshop again to DIY look at that!

Not worth me getting a shop to do the work. Had the bike valued for Trade-in £600 if I'm lucky. If I sell privately, maybe £900 (but I need to fit new Chain)
 
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