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Discussion Starter #21
Man, that doesn't even look like a heli-coil. :oops: Why is there an o-ring on that plug?

Good find, but I don't think that would kill the bike. Hopefully when you get it repaired it will be better though.
Lol I know it came out like that. I had no idea what it was but since I can't screw the plug back in I think it is safe to say its a mangled helicoil. The o-ring is from my friends compressor tester and I just put it there so it doesn't get lost. That wasn't there before.

Honestly, I think your right about it not being the issue. I say this because I have a dumb friend that rode his bike to help me out a while back and he asked me for tools to unplug one of his spark plugs on purpose. I thought he was joking but he actually disconnected one plug on his 4 cylinder and rode home like that. His genius reasoning by the way was that he wanted to have pops in his exhaust from the unburnt fuel from that one cylinder. Now as crazy as he is, his bike did have a nice pop on decelerations and it rode fine without cutting off. (He doesn't ride like that always just that ride home, hopefully) Granted he has a newer bike that is fuel injected but it still makes me wonder if the issue I am having is related to the helicoil or not. Like you said, we will find out soon.
 

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Hey guys quick update. I took out the plugs to do a compression test but when I unscrewed one of the plugs, a helicoil was stuck to it and now the plug wont screw back in. So my guess was that the person before me put a helicoil in after he messed up one of the threads and it got loose because I remember when I replaced the plugs a year ago I had no issues. Im not too happy about this but I think there might be a bright side to this. The plug that had the messed up helicoil has slight burn marks on it passed where the threads are. This makes me think that there was not good compression because there was a leak passed the plug. If that is the case then the bike might have been running funny and giving me the issues because of a bad cylinder compression. I hope this solves the problem with the idle and that the issues are related.

So I will be taking out the head and rethreading it and inserting another helicoil. While Im there I will also clean the cylinders/valves and check the valve clearances. I just checked timing today and its good.

There wont be any updates from me for a few days since I have to search wait for parts but I will be active if there are any comments.

View attachment 107570
did you clean the spark plugs of the other 3 as they do look quite clear ,I would of expected a little sooting, also have you modified the DAI (and removed any EVAP)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
It was actually the fuel pump if you can believe that!

So what happened was the fuel pump works like a bicycle pump but it pushes fuel. But the way it works is with a diaphragm with a check valve so when the plunger moves it only moves fuel in on direction. The thing that moves the plunger up and down is a solenoid with contacts that open and close really fast. It is just like the contacts in a apartment building door that "buzzes you in." So this fuel pump in particular would have good contact to engage the solenoid and move the plunger but the contact mechanism wouldn't release the plunger.

This means it was creating a blockage for fuel from the tank to pass. So the bike was running on just the fuel in the lines and bowls. But the reason why it was running like crap was because the pump was creating a vacuum so even the fuel in the bowls and lines had a hard time getting sucked up. I would guess the bike would run like this if the breather hole in the tank was clogged as it would cause the same issue of a vacuum. This is the crazy thing and why it was so hard to pinpoint the fuel pump. When the bike would die, it would disengage the solenoid in the fuel pump allowing the fuel from the tank to flow. And every time I crank it, the pump would also disengage the solenoid allowing the fuel to flow. So this was a hard thing to diagnose because the pump would "reset" and give the illusion that it was working. It was even harder to diagnose this because not only was I getting fuel to the carb by taking out the lines, I was getting fuel to the intake! Thats why I thought everything before that was good. And honestly that was a good logical assumption.

The only thing that made me look into the pump was because my friend who I guess didn't have my tunnel vision brought it up. But even then I dissmissed it and told him the same thing that im getting fuel to the intake and carbs. But then I saw that there is a spec for the fuel pump and it is supposed to push out a certain amount of fuel in 5 seconds and I said it wouldn't hurt to test it.

I got a cool video here that explains everything visually.

Again guys thank you for all your help and support. I appreciate every post!
 

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Man, all this CARB BASHING makes me want to jump in front of BUS! :p I was thinking I would stay away from this one, but alas, here I am.

When you removed and cleaned the carbs you said you separated them from each other and DID NOT sync them after? That will surely need to be done, and could be the root of your issue. HOW did you clean them? Ultrasonic bath? Just spraying carb cleaner through the orifices? Removed all the jets (mains, slows, mixture screws) and emulsion tubes? Did you take take note of the numbers on them? What position was the clip on the jet needle?

The second point I'll offer is have you done a compression check? Yes, fuel, air, and spark are all needed to make a combustion engine run, but if it's not compressing the mixture, it will barely catch and/or just fart. So check the compression on each cylinder, plugs out, and WFO throttle.

Is there any chance you took pictures of the carbs while they were out?? Can you post some of what they look like now? Maybe use a drop tank/remote tank/soda bottle tank and test without using the actual fuel tank?

Get the compression numbers and any pics you can offer and report back. (y)
 

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Im having this same problem. But onky after changing the damn trottle cables. Changed fuel and let the computer reset. But my bike 2006 cbr 600 rr is doing exact same thing as the video
 

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Im having this same problem. But onky after changing the damn trottle cables. Changed fuel and let the computer reset. But my bike 2006 cbr 600 rr is doing exact same thing as the video
Is it possible the teittle cable is to tight?
 

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Im having this same problem. But onky after changing the damn trottle cables. Changed fuel and let the computer reset. But my bike 2006 cbr 600 rr is doing exact same thing as the video
Hi there, why did you change the throttle cables?

These bikes are not similar. Yours if FI, and the other is carbed. I would suggest if you had the tank and air box off that you have a connector that’s not connected or at least has a bad connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Im having this same problem. But onky after changing the damn trottle cables. Changed fuel and let the computer reset. But my bike 2006 cbr 600 rr is doing exact same thing as the video

Yea since yours is fuel injected but acts like what the video is doing, I would think there is a air leak somewhere. Either check your vacuum lines were put correctly or make sure there is no air leak where you throttle body mounts to the engine. Spray starter fluid of anything flammable while the bike idles and see if the rpms change. Hopefully your bike can idle long enough to do that test.
 
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