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Discussion Starter #1
ok guys im going to pull my hair out. i have a 2000 929 with roughly 7000 miles ok the motor had to change it out once. I have been having this issue were my bike would not go over 120mph for anything. i cleaned out the fuel tank and found the fuel pump filled with rust so i changed the fuel filter and cleaned it up. anlso had a faulty fpr bought a new one and changed it. my problem is my bike is running rich, i had a problem with wet plug 1 so i changed the coil with a known good one. still no improvement. i also had a pc3 on it that i took on and off several times after i would fix one thing to see if it would improve the pc3 always made things worse so i have elminated it completely.i can ride the bike around town no problems it will blurb a little when i slow down for a light or stop sign. but if i try to get on it between closed throttle and 1/4 throttle it does ok but anymore 1/4-fully open it boggs down almost like its getting to much air. i checked my boots on the throttle bodies and they were a little loose so i tightened all of them down still no improvement. i have also changed the ignition pulse generator thinking the power commander had messed with the last one, no change. i ran itno a problem like this on my 93 f2 600 and it turned out to be the boots but as i said before no change there. so a list of what i have done
1. cleaned tank
2.new fuel filter
3.new coils
4.new plugs
5.new fpr
6.new ignition pulse generator
7.removed pc3
8.new battery
9.checked vaccuum lines
10.tightend throttle boots
11.checked and cleaned air filter
12.checked h-vix exhaust side (servo is rotating)
13.gutted air box flapper valve(have another one coming to fix the flapper)
14.has motified shorty jardine exhaust can
15.ran my fan to toggle my bike runs 180 f 90% of the time i figured is was running to cold

sitting in the garage runnig with side stand down if you just twist the throttle easy it will rev properly no hesitation but if you let it settle back down to idle wait a few seconds then twist the throttle like your getting on it it will hesitate between 2.5-4.5 rpm then go. when riding if you ride easy then go to accelerate hard it will bog down bad its almost like i have an air leak some where but i cant find it. ive done the little test were i start the bike and let it idle and then spray staaring fluid around the vaccum lines and boots to see if there is a leak and after i tightened them down it wouldnt do anything. also there is no improvement wether the bike is cold or at operating tempature. please someone help this is drving me nuts. i aslo forgot i cleaned the tank out twice the first time after i did the bike ran amazing scared me a few times then started bogging down again which cuase me to clean is a second time after the second time when i replaced the filteris when it started doing this and i foud the bad fpr. i hope i included everything and dont think i forgot anything. im going to do a compression test tonight or tomorrow but i dont think it has anything the valves because it starts and runs fine and idles fine.
 

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When I started reading your problems the first thing I thought of was the vacuum lines but it appears you have taken care of that, you are definitely have a fuel delivery problem---sorry for the stating the obvious, i wonder if your fuel injectors are impeding the delivery of the fuel, may be an idea to look into that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thank you oxman for reminding me. i pulled the fuel injector rail off and set the injectors in the top of the throttle bodies and turned the bike over every injector was shutting of and on during their respective cycle. the bike even ran for about 20 seconds and i watched every injector along with a friend to make sure none of them were stay on constanly or not spraying.
 

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thank you oxman for reminding me. i pulled the fuel injector rail off and set the injectors in the top of the throttle bodies and turned the bike over every injector was shutting of and on during their respective cycle. the bike even ran for about 20 seconds and i watched every injector along with a friend to make sure none of them were stay on constanly or not spraying.

Looks like your testing has been thorough.
Since you had rust in the tank did you clean the injectors?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was unsure how to properly clean them but I did take them out of the throttle bodies and off the fuel rail and sprayed them with cleaner and cleaned the fuel rail out. Maybe I need to clean the throttle bodies
 

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I was unsure how to properly clean them but I did take them out of the throttle bodies and off the fuel rail and sprayed them with cleaner and cleaned the fuel rail out. Maybe I need to clean the throttle bodies

The injectors should have a screen filter over them that can get clogged up.
Not much point cleaning the throttle bodies as they're just a hole with a throttle plate in them. The starter valves are the only actual fuel circuit in them.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well this problem has been bugging me for 3 weeks and I can't figure out what the issue is any ideas?
 

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have you changed the fuel lines lately, if your fuel lines are too long it will cause your symptons, i recently balanced the carbs in my 900 and i put extra long lines from the tank resting on the rear seat to the engine, i left the extra long lines on the bike saying to myself it would be handy for future use, but 10 mins into riding the bike it felt like the bike was running out of fuel, and actually conked out on me. i took the tank off the bike and cut the fuel lines to the correct size and she's flying now!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
the the only thing i changed was the length of the fuel return line. thats all the othe3r fuel line was on the bike before.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well the fuel line is factory or own the fuel return line is not. Could some explain y the length of the line would change anything. Not saying it's a bad idea just want to make sure before I go cutting down lines
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well talked to my grandpa today seems i over looked something. my cam chain is suppose to have a bit of slack to it but when i checked it today it was tight like ungodly tight. so in the morning i will losen it do the compression check and once over everything else i have done to make sure im not forgetting anything.
 

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well talked to my grandpa today seems i over looked something. my cam chain is suppose to have a bit of slack to it but when i checked it today it was tight like ungodly tight. so in the morning i will losen it do the compression check and once over everything else i have done to make sure im not forgetting anything.

Have you got a manual tensioner?
The camchain should not have any slack in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
no slack ok will tighten it, yes i have a manual tensioner. did the first part of the compression test this morning on a cold motor cyl1 200psi, cyl2 200psi, cyl 3 195psi, cyl 4 190psi. getting ready to warm the motor and do it again also going to clean the injectors while doing the compression test i left everything connected that i could that is fuel related. i got a strong fuel smell out of cyl 3 and 4 and the tester was wet and cyls 1and 2 were dry also the plugs were not the same so im wondering if 3 and 4 are getting good fuel or to much or maybe 1 and 2 are running lean?
 

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no slack ok will tighten it, yes i have a manual tensioner. did the first part of the compression test this morning on a cold motor cyl1 200psi, cyl2 200psi, cyl 3 195psi, cyl 4 190psi. getting ready to warm the motor and do it again also going to clean the injectors while doing the compression test i left everything connected that i could that is fuel related. i got a strong fuel smell out of cyl 3 and 4 and the tester was wet and cyls 1and 2 were dry also the plugs were not the same so im wondering if 3 and 4 are getting good fuel or to much or maybe 1 and 2 are running lean?
Why do you want a hot compression test?
Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator isn't leaking?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok i went and warmed the bike and on cyl 2 (i left the air box off) as the bike was warming up i noticed that it would backfire into cyl2 i could see the flame around the butterfly valve. going to do tyhe compression test on them now.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
the fpr is brand new just ordered it from honda and i did check it again after i installed it.
the book also says to warm the bike to operating temp to do the first one but i wanted to see if there would be any difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
update found a busted spring on the number 2 valve starter which is allowing the starter valve to dump extra fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
ok guys i need to know something. are the starter valves on the throttle boddies suppose to completely close after the bike warms up? as i mentioned earlier one of the springs on the starter valve was busted but i got to looking at it and when i took the adjusting nut off the starter valve it closed completely. so my curiosity got me and i started the bike. no i got back fire in every other cylinder but number two which had the completly closed starter valve any ideas or could some one post some pics of the starting position of the starter valve on a cool engine and then pics of them on a operating temp please.
 
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