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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello, so i just picked up a 2000 929rr. The buddy i bought it from had they key break off 2-3 years ago. he installed a new ignition but the fuel pump isn't priming and won't start. all the lights come on and it'll crank but won't start. I know the fuel pump works after hooking power up to it with jumper wires. What's my most likely culprits?
UDATE: issue solved, the pink wire in the ignition was the issue. I installed a 12v-9v converter in between the pink wire. Routed the negatives back to the battery. She fired right up. I was able to test the wire with a 9v battery the day before parts showed up and got it to fire.
Side note: Do be conscious of your main fuel line off the pump when reassembling. I was negligent and it had a small twist and blew the line. Bike will be back up and running by Monday lol.
 

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Hello, so i just picked up a 2000 929rr. The buddy i bought it from had they key break off 2-3 years ago. he installed a new ignition but the fuel pump isn't priming and won't start. all the lights come on and it'll crank but won't start. I know the fuel pump works after hooking power up to it with jumper wires. What's my most likely culprits?
There is several reasons why it won’t prime. I’d check the engine stop switch, the red one next to the throttle. They can get dirty or worn out.

There is also a, I think pink wire that sends a signal. If the switch was not wired properly it won’t prime the pump.

there is several more places to check but I’d start there.
Also look up the service manual for your make and model, it should help more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There is several reasons why it won’t prime. I’d check the engine stop switch, the red one next to the throttle. They can get dirty or worn out.

There is also a, I think pink wire that sends a signal. If the switch was not wired properly it won’t prime the pump.

there is several more places to check but I’d start there.
Also look up the service manual for your make and model, it should help more.
i checked all of the following and confirmed they were good, fuel pump relay, fuel cut off relay, engine cut off switch, tip over sensor, fuel pump, coil packs, no broken/shorted wires. But i realized when i had it torn apart i tried cranking with some starting fluid and found out i had no spark either. spark plugs good as well. im 99% sure my ecu went out and i have a new one on the way. i will confirm if thats what is was when i get it installed next week.m
 

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I’ve said this before and will say it again. When a 929 fails to prime, MOST, not ALL, the time it’s the ECU.

HOWEVER, with your ignition being replaced, was it an OEM ignition or an eBay knockoff POS ignition?

There is a Zener diode that kicks the 12vdc to the ECU down to 9ish upon turning the key. Check the DC voltage at the pink wire at the ECU. If you have 12 or 0, you need an In line Zener Diode.

Or check the bottom of the new ignition, under the plastic cover. You should see it complete, sitting in the little holder. OEM on left, cheep shite on right.

109794
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’ve said this before and will say it again. When a 929 fails to prime, MOST, not ALL, the time it’s the ECU.

HOWEVER, with your ignition being replaced, was it an OEM ignition or an eBay knockoff POS ignition?

There is a Zener diode that kicks the 12vdc to the ECU down to 9ish upon turning the key. Check the DC voltage at the pink wire at the ECU. If you have 12 or 0, you need an In line Zener Diode.

Or check the bottom of the new ignition, under the plastic cover. You should see it complete, sitting in the little holder. OEM on left, cheep shite on right.

View attachment 109794
It is an aftermarket ignition without the diode, I took the old diode out last night and soldered it in between the wire leading to pink but it still wouldn't prime. Obviously I may have not soldered it good enough or the diode went bad. The new ECU is on the way already but if it still doesn't prime after that I'm gonna order and OEM ignition or some sense diodes. Do you happen to have a link to the right diodes?
 

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The Zener diodes are not available separately. I got a five pack or something similar from Amazon. I believe it was a .5W 3.7V Zener diode. It was like 6 years ago. And now that I think about it, I’m not entirely sure the pink wire has anything to do with priming, but it definitely won’t spark without the 9VDC on the pink wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The Zener diodes are not available separately. I got a five pack or something similar from Amazon. I believe it was a .5W 3.7V Zener diode. It was like 6 years ago. And now that I think about it, I’m not entirely sure the pink wire has anything to do with priming, but it definitely won’t spark without the 9VDC on the pink wire.
Well I ordered a 12v to 9v converter to save some trouble of getting the right diodes and soldering them in which is a pain in the ass. Hopefully this works and I'll just mount the converter somewhere not in the way.
 

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This issue could also be the fuel pump assembly. Check voltage at the outer connections of the pump (where the lines and banjo bolt reside there's 2 brown wires), then check voltage on the inside of the pump. What I found on mine was one of the outer brown wires was shorted, had voltage on the outer connections but not the inner. I had to remove the epoxy from the connections wiggled it around the fuel pump primed. I ended up replacing the entire assembly with a good used unit.
 
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Here is a visual, the connections pass through the pump and are sealed to prevent the gas from leaking out. This is after a couple of solder jobs and attempts to seal it, I caved in and replaced the assembly.

109800
 

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Those pesky pink wires 😎. Can you post a link to the converter and maybe a pic of how you wired it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Those pesky pink wires 😎. Can you post a link to the converter and maybe a pic of how you wired it?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A71E52G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_F0MCANMM6V2KS8SJXRRG here is the converter. I'm currently at work and don't have any pictures of it. I mounted it with zip ties to the inside of my frame on the right side just under the tank. The hot wires are following the main wiring harness through a small gap between the air intake and the frame. Then the grounds are tied and soldered onto the main negative of the battery. Hope this helps. If I remember I'll take pictures of how it's wired in.
 
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