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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, i bought a 929 a couple of days ago, it was relatively cheap becausr it has some issues, right now, im having trouble with is:

Previous owner locked the exhaust valve open, there are no cables anywhere that i can see...

When i turn on the ignition, the red MIL light doesnt come on, in fact it never does.

The FI letters on the digital dash are always on even when im riding the bike

The bike has a KN air filter as far as iv been told (havent checked yet)

It doesnt have low end, its dead before 6k rpm, like the revs go up slowly and no torque, after 6k it picks up pretty good up to redline ( some weird vibrations though ).

What should i look into first? Fuel pressure regulator? The fuel pump? Or just take it to a shop and let them try and sort it? Im mechanically able, electronic not so much...

Thanks in advance
 

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I don’t have any FI bikes, and hopefully someone will correct me if I’m wrong, but I think the FI light IS the MIL light, and if your exhaust servo is still there but no cables, it may be why your low end is missing. If you don’t have a servo buddy, you’ll get he FI light. They’re usually set as partially open.

I tried looking up 929 dashes on the net, but didn’t see anything specific.

If it runs “ok” under 6k, just weak, I would assume it’s the valve position.

You can move it and lock it in another position and try it out.
 

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Heeza Y Zasch
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I don’t have any FI bikes, and hopefully someone will correct me if I’m wrong, but I think the FI light IS the MIL
nope. FI is a digital icon and MIL is a red light.

doesn't mean the MIL even illuminates as it should though.

as far as the OP's problems, far too many variables. I highly recommend getting a Honda Service Manual and going through it and your machine with a multimeter.
 

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iirc when you turn the ignition on the red MIL light always comes on then goes out again. if it is not coming on at all there is something else wrong!

I just went out and tried mine.....

put the key in with kill switch off. turn ignition on and all the LCD should come on as a test then after a few seconds they'll go off and you should have the red light and oil warning symbol. Flick the kill switch to on and the Fi symbol comes on for a couple of seconds with the red MIL (and if the servo motor is working you'll hear it run) then the Fi symbol will go out again leaving just oil and red MIL (if in neutral gear you'll have the green light too). when running neither the red light nor the Fi/oil/high temp warning symbols should show at all.

perhaps there is a dash fault - or someone butchered the internal circuit board to get the red light to stay off?!

check all the wires and fuses too but that's basics.

symptoms do sound like the exhaust valve is stuck, which means the gears in the servo motor have probably stripped and there is no fix for this other than replacing the whole unit, which isn't cheap, so might explain why the PO has tried to hide this and why you have now got issues!

I think the first stage it to find out why the red MIL won't come on at all.

Hope you get it sorted.
 

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nope. FI is a digital icon and MIL is a red light.

doesn't mean the MIL even illuminates as it should though.

as far as the OP's problems, far too many variables. I highly recommend getting a Honda Service Manual and going through it and your machine with a multimeter.
Thanks for the assist amigo :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the inputs guys, i have downloaded the service manual and read some of it.

I took the dash apart today and the LED is there and nothing looks damaged on the circuit board.

Next step is checking fuses and the harness for any damage, if i can get the MIL light to pop up then i can try and fix what ever code its throwing up.

Its been raining and the bike sits on the street under a cover, so i havent had the time to fiddle with it, this week i will take it to a buddys garage where it will sleep most of the time, staying on the street is temporary.
 

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There is a good chance the previous owner removed the servo motor and did not use a servo buddy. or just removed the the cables and left the motor in place. also, check the air intake box see what he did there. it could be that he didnt remove the flappers in the airbox and that cold be causing issues. if you can break the butterfly trap free i would see if you can buy a used servo motor with cable to rebuild that. also, so you have a power commander?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I dont have a PC yet, i will get one in the future. When the weather dries and warms up i will check the servo housing and the airbox flapper, see whats going on with that.
 

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Modifing the air box flap or exhaust and leaving the motor in situ is common as it stops error code being set in the Ecu. It’s what I did. I’d expect the exhaust valve to be fixed in the fully open though. Also they’d be no point in doing any of this until they had got a PC and had it tuned or it would probably run like a bag of poo!!
 

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Modifing the air box flap or exhaust and leaving the motor in situ is common as it stops error code being set in the Ecu. It’s what I did. I’d expect the exhaust valve to be fixed in the fully open though. Also they’d be no point in doing any of this until they had got a PC and had it tuned or it would probably run like a bag of poo!!
that's exactly what i was thinking. The PC would help with the fuel air mix.
 

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Sounds like the previous owner did some real diservices to the bike. There is an order to things. If you want your midrange and smoothness back, I'd get it back to stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for thw replies guys. I know when to stop and leave it to a pro hehe. I took it to a shop. As soon as he saw the bike and told me to start it up he told me to shut it down again, he says it might have a bent flywheel, because of the hard start and since it fell over to the side and it has a repaired stator cover. I knew that it had fell over but i didnt think it could have damaged the flywheel/crankshaft. I went check on it the day after, 8 MIL codes, HVIX and HTEV systems are totally messed up and he hadnt had the time to open the stator cover yet. This week he will do it. I got 1000€ margin to spend before it turns into a bad buy. Will give feedback once i know more.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, i got the bike back yesterday. So this is what the mechanic told me, the stator cover was cracked and was repaired but it was leaking a little bit. The damage it took mustve bent the starter gear shaft that sits on the cover and ao the bike was difficult to start. New stator cover, gasket, starter shaft and gear.

That fixed the problem with the rough start.

Next issue, the lack of low and mid range and FI sign on the dash, the hvix and htev were both disabled by previous owner but not correctly. The mechanic installed a servo delete and locked the exhaust valve in the open position. He told me the best thing to get the bike running right would be to get the intake flapper working and a power commander to tune the bike.

I took it to work today, it feels better than before in the mid range, but i think im missing top end as i got stuck at roughly 158 mph and couldnt get past that even at WOT. And before the bike went to the shop i think i did over 174mph at some point. Also the FI sign was cleared when i picked up the bike and when i got to work today after trying the bike out it is now back up on the dash...tomorrow is a holyday so the shop is closed, need to get back there so he can have a look.

Next in the plan is to get a Power Commander so we can tune it properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hello guys! Its been a while. Ok so current status on the bike is basically, exhaust valve locked open, and intake flapper removed. Last week i went for a ride, did some twisties and my conclusion was: accelerating between the 2k and 3 k rpm was a pain because the bike would "jump" like crazy, was not smooth at all. And i had a dead spot in between 4k and 7k rpm.

But today i was blessed, found a Power Commander V really cheap, like 200$, i snatched it right away. Loaded a map that i tought was ok for my bike, my bike has a Slip on and a k&n air filter besides the Htev and Hvix being disabled.

I know i will get the best results by getting a dyno tune but at the moment thats not possible.
I connected the whole thing using the instructions, all good. Calibrated throttle position sensor.


And then i went for a ride...man, smooth aceleration from 2k onwards, the "jump" is gone and so is the dead spot in the low to mid range. I am very happy now. Can't wait till i dyno tune it ?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Found out that the vibration i tought was the front tire defect or rim unbalanced...was after all, a problem in the engine. Its knocking bad, i think its the connecting rod bearings and/or the crankshaft bearings...im hoping that the connecting rods are ok and the crankshaft isnt bent but at this moment everything is possible. I got a lemon...but its not gonna beat me, il get that blade running right even if i have to get another engine put in. Il post more once the shop takes the pan out to take a look.
 

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Good work! Is the Fi and MIL light behaving now the PC is fitted? May need to reset the ECU? then see if the fault comes back? Its easy to clear the faults from the ECU, no special kit required.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Good work! Is the Fi and MIL light behaving now the PC is fitted? May need to reset the ECU? then see if the fault comes back? Its easy to clear the faults from the ECU, no special kit required.
How do you clear the faults from the ECU?

At the moment im contemplating taking the motor out myself and taking it to a shop to open it and see whats wrong. How hard is taking that motor out, i have taken motors in and out of cars in a day so i guess it cant be harder.
 

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SELF-DIAGNOSIS RESET PROCEDURE

1. Turn the engine stop switch to RUN and ignition switch OFF.
2. Short the service check connector of the PGM-FI system using a jumper wire.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON.
4. Remove the jumper wire from the service check connector.
5. The MIL lights about 5 seconds .
6. While the indicator lights, short the service check connector again with the jumper wire. Self diagnosis memory data is erased, if the MIL turn off and start blinking.

Note:
• The service check connector must be jumped while the indicator lights . If not, the MIL will not start blinking.
• The self diagnosis memory data cannot be erased if you turn off the ignition switch before the MIL starts blinking.

If the MIL blinks 20 times, the data has not been erased, so try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just showing the progress, i have a friends garage to store the bike but i work on the street its easier. Next up:

Take the radiator and hoses out
Full exhaust system out
Air box and intake out
And take the engine out

Open up the engine and figure out what was knocking, i suspect rod bearings and maybe crank bearings, really hoping i didnt damage the crank or rods. Gonna check the cylinder walls to see if they are okay as well.

It kills me seeing her like this...but in the end she will be allright ?
 

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