Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi there I'm new to the forum & should've signed up awhile ago lol But none the less I was out riding today when my rear brake seemed super stiff (having to push really hard to even have the brakes touch) then I was coming to a stop sign when my pedal instantly went to the floor (furthest it would go downward) Then upon stopping & pulling off to the side of the road I had noticed I had fluid all over my rear tire. Then happened to look for the problem and found this....The entire end cap of the caliper (not sure of what you would call it) completely blew off and cracked the aluminum the entire way around Anyone know what could've caused this? (mind you the brakes were working before the lever got super stiff):idunno: Any help would be greatly appreciated & thanks for having me :D
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
791 Posts
I'm sure you know it's not the original caliper but a smaller lightweight racing part. I can't imagine what would cause this catastrophic failure tbh but I'd hope to get some recourse from the manufacturer of the part. Does it have a brand name stamped on it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
No bud I know it's a track caliper I don't remember the name or brand it was been a long time since I've bought them but its crazy how it just blew up and cracked the aluminum case the entire way around where the brake hose attaches to :( I go to the track sometimes but not all the time I'm mostly street and wanted better stopping power. I have brembos on the front.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
So anyone know by chance what would cause this to happen? Why the entire caliper snapped and cracked like that? There isn't an outer seal there that separated its cracked aluminum :/ or what would cause the rear brake to not function out of nowhere then be hard as heck to push down as if the master cylinder seized up then the caliper exploded.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,034 Posts
So anyone know by chance what would cause this to happen? Why the entire caliper snapped and cracked like that? There isn't an outer seal there that separated its cracked aluminum :/ or what would cause the rear brake to not function out of nowhere then be hard as heck to push down as if the master cylinder seized up then the caliper exploded.

Does the broken metal look fresh or does it show signs of being cracked for some time?
I can only guess that the plug has been over-tightened causing eventual failure.
Is it made in China perhaps?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
927 Posts
^ Overtightening is probably most likely. I can't tell you how many people I see who laugh at, "Tight is tight, too tight is broke." They figure it's metal and can't be broken by a mere mortal lol maybe it's just the angle of the shot, could it have been crossthreaded?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Haha probably or as my brothers always tell me to make things snug NOT JAYJAY tight and it seems to have just happened because I do daily checks of all components each ride and the only problem I e ever had with the blade was the rear brake suddenly gotten super stiff then once I came to the stop the lever just dropped like it broke off. Not sure if its made in china or not I ordered the set off eBay about a year ago and have about 5-700 miles on the new system. I appreciate your guys input in trying to help me out. I'm out of town currently and will check to see what brand they are and get specifics. And everything is torqued to spec so ill check. Thanks again guys will update when I get home and check the caliper myself and also my invoice.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,034 Posts
Haha probably or as my brothers always tell me to make things snug NOT JAYJAY tight and it seems to have just happened because I do daily checks of all components each ride and the only problem I e ever had with the blade was the rear brake suddenly gotten super stiff then once I came to the stop the lever just dropped like it broke off. Not sure if its made in china or not I ordered the set off eBay about a year ago and have about 5-700 miles on the new system. I appreciate your guys input in trying to help me out. I'm out of town currently and will check to see what brand they are and get specifics. And everything is torqued to spec so ill check. Thanks again guys will update when I get home and check the caliper myself and also my invoice.

500-700 miles in a year?
Is there any rust in the system?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Also here is just a basic list of parts I've put on since buying my 954..

Scotts/Ohlins - Steering Damper
Harris - Clip - Ons
Harris - Rear Sets
Red Racing - Intake Covers
Red Racing - Rear Fender
Carbon Tek – Front Fender
Red Racing – Shark fin
Red Racing - Chain Guard
Red Racing - Sprocket Cover
Red Racing - Heel Guards
lock hart Phillips - Tank Guard
QB Carbon - Instrument surround
Magical Racing – Carbon fiber Screen
Lightech - Frame Sliders
Lightech - Clutch Lever
Lightech - Oil Cap
Lightech - Gas Cap
Lightech - swingarm sliders
HRC - Throttle
HRC - Kill Switch
MG Innovations – Yoke
Goodridge - blue Brake Lines
EBC HH-Front Brake Lines
Shark Skinz - Plastics
Euro Bikes - Under Tray
AFAM - Sprockets
DID - Chain
Factory Pro V Intake Stacks
BnC - Filter
Akrapovic - Exhaust Full Ti Evo/EvoII Can plus headers
Power Commander - PCIII
Erion series- Hi-Output Cams
Erion factory Honda- Dynoing
Erion -ported Heads
Work US Coatings - Powder Coating
US Coatings - Anodizing paint
Cycle Works - Paint
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,034 Posts
Thanks for the quick reply Blade, Yes I ride it around town but I also drive my car and truck and no rust in the system all lines are brand new.

You didn't mention that you only just put the lines on, maybe there was something blocking the hose?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I'm sorry I didn't mean it as in brand new like recently put on in the past month but new as in they were put on along with the calipers. I was meaning new as in not by date but by usage. But like I've said everything worked perfectly since putting the parts on and then until 3 days ago when it felt like my rear brake had a lock on it or as if there was something in the line blocking it then about 2 miles down the road I went to slow down (using my front brakes more than the rear but still using them) that's when the caliper blew up and broke the top end of the caliper off.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,034 Posts
I'm sorry I didn't mean it as in brand new like recently put on in the past month but new as in they were put on along with the calipers. I was meaning new as in not by date but by usage. But like I've said everything worked perfectly since putting the parts on and then until 3 days ago when it felt like my rear brake had a lock on it or as if there was something in the line blocking it then about 2 miles down the road I went to slow down (using my front brakes more than the rear but still using them) that's when the caliper blew up and broke the top end of the caliper off.

With brake fluid it's age that matters. The fluid absorbs moisture from the air, even in a sealed brake system. If you leave the bike to sit for long periods with moisture in the brake systems you will get corrosion.
It may be that the lack of brake and the failure of the caliper are unrelated. I can't think of any way of creating enough pressure in the brake system to actually break aluminium - unless it's already cracked, or it's "Chinese" aluminium (like they make their engines out of).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
And I've not had the time to take the lines off and physically check them yet I was just checking to see if anyone has ever seen a newer caliper crack open like this and what may be the possible cause of it. Ill be going into detail on everything once I get home and have a chance to take it all apart. But I know or at least knew everything was working and fluids were clear and not dirty and everything was functioning, but from the feel of it when I tried to stop it sorta felt as if the caliper piston seized up or the master cylinder seized up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
With brake fluid it's age that matters. The fluid absorbs moisture from the air, even in a sealed brake system. If you leave the bike to sit for long periods with moisture in the brake systems you will get corrosion.
It may be that the lack of brake and the failure of the caliper are unrelated. I can't think of any way of creating enough pressure in the brake system to actually break aluminium - unless it's already cracked, or it's "Chinese" aluminium (like they make their engines out of).
Yes that's what I was thinking of how the heck could it possibly build up enough pressure to break it, it's just weird and I've never in my life seen anything like this happen before. So I figured maybe track guys would chime in like yourself even with knowing you guys rarely use the rear brake lol
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,034 Posts
And I've not had the time to take the lines off and physically check them yet I was just checking to see if anyone has ever seen a newer caliper crack open like this and what may be the possible cause of it. Ill be going into detail on everything once I get home and have a chance to take it all apart. But I know or at least knew everything was working and fluids were clear and not dirty and everything was functioning, but from the feel of it when I tried to stop it sorta felt as if the caliper piston seized up or the master cylinder seized up.

If the plug bottoms in the bottom of the hole then I would guess it's simply been over-tightened and cracked the threaded part away from the caliper.
Still seems like very poor quality aluminium though as you'd expect it to strip threads out first. Is it cast or billet?
I would just put a stock caliper back on and forget about using it as any kind of braking system, use the front brakes for that.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,034 Posts
Yes that's what I was thinking of how the heck could it possibly build up enough pressure to break it, it's just weird and I've never in my life seen anything like this happen before. So I figured maybe track guys would chime in like yourself even with knowing you guys rarely use the rear brake lol

Exactly, put a stock caliper back on and stop using it :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Exactly, put a stock caliper back on and stop using it :)
Hehe I will be doing that and also finding the MFG. of the caliper and making them replace it. But my stock one is a top mount on the rotor/swingarm (which I no longer have) and the new setup is a bottom side mount.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
And the internals of it (now I can see it broken) looks like cast alluminium but the outer surface looks billet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Thanks bladeracer for the info I suppose ill just find a way to stock mount an OEM caliper and just leave it at that and thanks others for any input it's much appreciated. Hope to see you guys around more often. I've got 2 othe fireblades ill be working on (another for straight track and another for stunting) I've found some other posts on here very useful and am very happy we have forums like these.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top