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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

Have noticed today that only my RH fan is switching on, temp goes up to 110' when a idle, and can only drop it to 104 ish - and given it was only 7' today don't think it will survive the summer.

I know a volt metre will help identify if power is being sent to fan, but can somebody confirm that either one, or BOTH should switch on / cut in at 104 please, or does the LH one switch on at say 110+

Thanks in advance

Al
 

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I am just taking a guess at this..

But I believe you are correct that the other fan kicks in at a higher temp.. Makes more sense that way then having both come on at the same time
 

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the fans come at different temperatures.
Have had my 08 over 2 summers now. IT heats up pretty quick in slow moving traffic or stationary. Because of this, it is easy to check if the fans are spinning at their set temperature.
Mine hovers between 105 & 100 don't think I have seen 110.
Check the workshop manual, it is written there. If you can't find it let me know.

Thing to remember is that you bike overheating message is flashing temp gauge.

I would also suggest to put in full synth 10w40 at the next oil change which should give your engine better lube during the hot days:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Think something is up with my bike, on the move on Friday its fine, 80'c
Stop at lights and it went upto 110 very quickly, fan DID cut in at 104, but rather than drop it down to 102 and stop it could not drop it below 109.
2nd fan cuts in at 110
I am thinking its radiator fins blocked with mud etc. stopping cooling effect.
It needed 200ml of coolant to get it to 'upper' level
Need to clean rad tomorrow and see if it improves it.

Any other ideas / things to check? - bike starts, stops and runs fine - just temp problem.
 

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Think something is up with my bike, on the move on Friday its fine, 80'c
Stop at lights and it went upto 110 very quickly, fan DID cut in at 104, but rather than drop it down to 102 and stop it could not drop it below 109.
2nd fan cuts in at 110
I am thinking its radiator fins blocked with mud etc. stopping cooling effect.
It needed 200ml of coolant to get it to 'upper' level
Need to clean rad tomorrow and see if it improves it.

Any other ideas / things to check? - bike starts, stops and runs fine - just temp problem.
What sort of ambient temps are you riding in?
How old is the coolant?
Have you tried bleeding the system?
Is the radiator full of coolant?
 

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manchester UK, this time of the year, you'd be struggling seeing above 10deg C.
When I for my RR8 and felt the fins, immediately placed an order for Rad guard! And boy does it need it!
You could well have lots of crap stuck in there or fins benyt so that air doesn't flow through. Check they all follow the original pattern, if needed try opening then up with a pencil or non metal item.
Loosing coolant, could be either a leak or overheating (although you don't seem to get temp gauge flashing warning).
Do the easy visual check yourself but unless you know the history of the bike, if I were you, I'd take it to a dealer/mechanic (one you trust) and have them check the cooling system: water pump, liquid mix etc
keep us posted
 

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Hello All,

Have noticed today that only my RH fan is switching on, temp goes up to 110' when a idle, and can only drop it to 104 ish - and given it was only 7' today don't think it will survive the summer.

I know a volt metre will help identify if power is being sent to fan, but can somebody confirm that either one, or BOTH should switch on / cut in at 104 please, or does the LH one switch on at say 110+

Thanks in advance

Al
Hello AlBlade,
Everyone has commented correctly about the fan schedule, coolant, oil, and temp difference. I own a 08 CBR10RR. In the beginning of ownning this bike; I was in the middle of summer in the US. I noticed the fans working seperately and saw high temps. I am on the farenhight scale so wont give related temps. Not necessary, you already know something is up with yours.
My particular case was related to battery power and a solenoid relay associated with the secondary fan. The connections were loose for the relay, and the battery was weak. Bike was under warranty so things were done with minimal cost to me. Tightened relay connections and replaced the battery, and I keep it charged with a battery tender when not ridding.
This is not what I would like to tell anybody, but here goes: Do not overlook the water pump. It may be that it is not pumping good enough, like on its last leg of life and pumping but very weak. Your temp reading that you have posted appears to be a weak circulation. This may also be thermostat related. I have been away from my bike for about a year and dont have my shop manual to refer to right now. I am giving this information from memory and experience.
What I mean by weak circulation is this; pump pressure is either restricted by clogging, or bad pump. Clogging can be due to a bad thermostat and not openning all the way.
I say this because the temps you give and how they dont seem to go down to the level they should be when the fans come on, is possibly a circulation problem. cooling system working more like a convection process, water escaping the hot engine to the less hot radiator with out pump pressure. Thus, temps not exactly what they should be.
These are questions for you. They are only suggestion and I dont need the answer;
When the bike shuts down does the coolant come out onto the ground, boiling over? Do you have good coolant? Is the coolant level at the right level to start with?
I went through this myself for my own bike. My problem wasn't exactly as you describe for yours. I have only made suggestion for you. I hope this helps a little and hope you get it worked out:cool:.
 

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Yes, the left fan will switch on at higher temps. 110 is likely good. Once the fan kicks on temps should drop relatively quick. With both fans running.
I wish I had my manual with me. I think you are giving celcious numbers.
I'll see if I find the manual online.
 

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These are from the common shop manual found in my Honda Financial web site membership. The temperatures are correct. This doesn't actually answer your question about when fans come on. These are boiling point temps. This is the best I can get for now.
61CM001_91_1.jpg

61CM001_92_1.jpg
 
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interesting.
So in your case the second fan coming on was intermittent?
I would guess if the flow was restricted then the cooling sys would work at reduced capacity and perhaps also result in high temperatures even on the move
just a thought!
 

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interesting.
So in your case the second fan coming on was intermittent?
I would guess if the flow was restricted then the cooling sys would work at reduced capacity and perhaps also result in high temperatures even on the move
just a thought!
You thought correctly. :) Yes, my secondary fan came on, and it seemed like it was intermittent, but really just late. Sometimes it did not come on at all, and I just got the bike moving. A few blown Red Lights, and down the berm kind of thing.
If AlBlades bike is running hot all the time, that could be the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the replies here - few updates to try and help work out what is going on.

1. Temp readings are in centigrade, and outside temp is about 10' centigrade here in Manchester in late Feb.
2. Coolant is just over a year old (was replaced when engine rebuilt I imagine to solve oil use problem)
2. This afternoon I was fitting / setting up a Scottoiler (handy device to lube chain automatically while riding) - final stage is to 'test' the system on rear stand by leaving engine running for 10 - 15 mins and checking delivery of oil.
Temp went up to about 108 but fan (only RH) cut in and temp dropped to about 104 - but never low enough (below 104) for fan to stop.

No coolant was lost, never boiled over so I am guessing its blocked / clogged fins - the coolant level is correct. If there was a real problem I think it would have surfaced - next weekend I'll remove the R&G rad guard and using a soft brush and hose pipe give it a really good clean - maybe from the back towards the front - I do ride year round so mud and gunk could well have blocked them up.
 

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Thanks for all the replies here - few updates to try and help work out what is going on.

1. Temp readings are in centigrade, and outside temp is about 10' centigrade here in Manchester in late Feb.
2. Coolant is just over a year old (was replaced when engine rebuilt I imagine to solve oil use problem)
2. This afternoon I was fitting / setting up a Scottoiler (handy device to lube chain automatically while riding) - final stage is to 'test' the system on rear stand by leaving engine running for 10 - 15 mins and checking delivery of oil.
Temp went up to about 108 but fan (only RH) cut in and temp dropped to about 104 - but never low enough (below 104) for fan to stop.

No coolant was lost, never boiled over so I am guessing its blocked / clogged fins - the coolant level is correct. If there was a real problem I think it would have surfaced - next weekend I'll remove the R&G rad guard and using a soft brush and hose pipe give it a really good clean - maybe from the back towards the front - I do ride year round so mud and gunk could well have blocked them up.
When you say the level is "correct" you mean the _radiator_ is full right? Ignore the reservoir.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
When you say the level is "correct" you mean the _radiator_ is full right? Ignore the reservoir.
Only checked expansion bottle - does that not balance out the radiator level?

I'll check the rad when I get chance - sure its a LH fairing off job - and we all know how quick and easy that is on the 2008 bikes, but needed if I am to get the rad fins cleaned.

Happier that there appears nothing 'terminal' to stop me using bike (fingers crossed / famous last words)
 

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Only checked expansion bottle - does that not balance out the radiator level?

I'll check the rad when I get chance - sure its a LH fairing off job - and we all know how quick and easy that is on the 2008 bikes, but needed if I am to get the rad fins cleaned.

Happier that there appears nothing 'terminal' to stop me using bike (fingers crossed / famous last words)

No. The _radiator_ must be full. The resevoir is only there to catch any overflow from the pressure relief valve.
If you have air in the radiator the engine will run hot.
 

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Okay, so no boil over. Air in the system is a good chance. Tank at back of frame wedged in front of swing arm is just a catch tank. You do check to see that it is not above the full mark. There are lines on that tank for hi and low levels, but it is a catch tank and not exactly quantity for system check.
On the right side under the airscoop intake tube and fairing is the raditor cap. (yes, I realize you already know this). Check the radiator at the cap.
Now, most cooling systems can be checked when engine is running. When the engine is running the system is under pressure, however, if there is air in the circulation it will blow out when you open the cap while running. You should protect yourself with a towl or ragg, goggles, or get your unsuspecting neighbor to do it the first time.:evilaugh:
All funnies aside, to get a cooling system serviced properly, the engine will need to be running for the fluid to circulate. The fluid needs to circulate so that all the cavities, pockets, and low points will fill up. If you just poor in fluid after say like a rebuild, then put the cap on, you'll get air pockets. This will turn up as hot running motor everytime. You could ask the question, Doesn't the air escape through the catch tank system, or out the vent of the cap? The answer is NO. Remember pressure only escapes slowly in a cooling system. It is intended to have pressure to keep the water from boiling. Only problem is, when air is trapped in the system from improper servicing, the air allows an expansion effect to take place and the scientific property of pressure becomes unstable. You do not have boiling over but, you do have a temperature problem. Meaning there may not be allot of air, but just enough for the system not to cool completely right. These bikes today run on the very fringe of minimal everything, to get the maximum performance. The cooling systems are very delicate in this respect. Small air bubbles present big problems.
Make your plans to check this out to include some protection. Fairing off, Cold bike, start it up, let it run at idle, gain temperature, slowly remove cap,(be ready here for fluid to come out, this is not uncommon, you'll need to put fluid back in), no twisting the throttle, allow the fluid to circulate, let temp come up so thermostat opens. Add fluid, if it is not flowing at the bottom of the cap well. Once satisfied, install cap, let system work up pressure and listen for the fan to run, watch temperature. (Telltale sign of air in system, is when you take the cap off and hear air escaping, engine running).
By the way, right fan will run on and off almost all the time while on a tail stand. You almost need a big hurricane fan to blow on the front while doing maintenance like this. Be carefull.
:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank Sidmark - plan is to try and look this weekend when I have time to give it decent check and clean radiator up.

Will keep folk posted with progress!
 

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Your welcome. be carefull, and you can do this trick several times to check your self.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Know its a while since I first posted this - but here is an update

The bike continued to head to 110 - 112 when stopped at traffic for a short time (in sub 10'c temps.) and I knew this was wrong.

One evening it dropped some coolant from the expansion pipe - more worrying.

Anyhow - to cut to the point I have an R&G radiator guard fitted, and remembered a run in late Jan / Feb over some mud and crud spilled roads, so the upshot appears that the whole central section of the radiator fins were totally clogged - and much brushing with hose from behind the rad, and brushing from the front has solved it.

In a test with fairings and bellypan removed (cannot face the struggle of getting them back on today) the LH fan cut in at 104, it went to 106 then dropped quickly back to 100 when the fan cut out, and it took a while to go back to 104 for the fan to cut in again. So once I re-fit the bodywork I will know for sure but much happier with bike.

Did a trackday at Donington Park (where the WSB is being held next weekend) and it ran perfectly, but did get hot very quick (110) the moment I stopped at garage.
 

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You had me fooled.
 
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