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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,
I have a 2008 cbr1000rr that I have been working on, I have put it back together after taking it apart for the valve adjustment, and now wont turn on. It cranks, and you can hear pops like it wants to try to get to running, the crankshaft turns because I saw it through the crankshaft timing hole. There is white smoke that comes out of the exhaust when starting. It's in neutral, kickstand up, battery hooked up. I think it could be the timing chain, I am not sure. Does this sound like the wrong or messed up timing chain problem. Also there is no spark coming. But the coils are good when ran through the multimeter. Fuel is good, looked inside the tank, no dirt or grime, clear(neat) gas, fuel primes and stuff. Starter was hot after cranking it a lot of times (i think that is regular).
Any help is greatly appreciated. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I think that is everything I dont think I am missing any other information
Oh and also the battery drains kind of quick, I had it checked at autozone, said it was good.
I have tried to start it with it plugged in and above 13V to see if it was the battery, but still the same thing.
 

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Sounds like a crankshaft or camshaft sensor is unplugged, or you indexed the crankshaft and camshafts wrong, when you replaced the timing chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sounds like a crankshaft or camshaft sensor is unplugged, or you indexed the crankshaft and camshafts wrong, when you replaced the timing chain.
The camshaft sensor is the only one i unplugged when i took the head cover off, I plugged it back in and made sure it was plugged in.
Indexed them wrong?
 

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Whenever you remove a timing chain or belt, you have to index the camshafts and the crankshaft. Meaning, you use a grease pen, Sharpie, crayon, etc, and make index marks on the EXACT position of each shaft is, in relation to a point on the engine block, and to each other. When you put the new chain or belt on, you have to make sure neither shaft moved, and when you get the chain or belt completely on, the index marks should all be lined up to your reference points on the block. If you get just one tooth of any of the shafts out of place, your engine will not work, as cam lobes and valves will be open/closed at the wrong times during the piston 4-stroke process. You can bend valves and damage the tops of the pistons if you do it wrong. It will crank until your battery dies, but never fire over and run.
 

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You should not need to mark them as they already have index marks on them and the workshop manual details how to align them. 8-24 refers
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ohhh i seee, ya we marked the chain and the cam sprocket, but when we put them back all correctly, we had to rotate the crank timing to check the valves, and after that the chain and the sprocket never lined up, I read i have to do like 50 spins to correctly line up. But the camshafts both line up in a straight line on the line that we drew, since the engine is on the bike, I can't fully see the side marks for the EX and IN.
I might take it off the frame and also do the head gasket while I am at it.
But i just found out that there is spark, well atleast for sure in cylinder 1, because i just pulled them out of the side with the new plugs in the egine and the plugged the old plug in to see if its the plugs and just checked it in the dark, and voila there was spark in the old one, then switched out and there was spark in the new ones too. When I went to check the others, i got greedy and pulled the rest 3 coils out together and used the old spark plugs(which were working fine), and just plugged all the minimum amount of stuff in and there was no spark in any of them. Then went back to check the 1 cylinder, after plugging the rest 3 back in, there was no spark in cylinder one.
I just had someone look at it and he said "your 3 and 4 are getting hot, I can feel it, but i dont know about your 1 and 2' because he was on the 3 and 4 side, "there a lot of fuel coming out, that is why the white smoke, I think its the fuel pump, regulator, and clean the injectors, new plugs."

I really appreciate you guys replying and stuff :)
I thought no one was gonna reply.😬
 

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The cam shafts lining up properly to each other is one thing, but they both need to be lined up the way they were, AND in relation to the crankshaft at the bottom, before you removed the old chain. If you turned the crankshaft, then you would be all out of alignment with the camshafts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh ok, i didn't remove the chain or the camshaft to do the shims, I just kind of barely lifted the camshaft so I had enough space to pick up the buckets, since the chain tesioners was rewinded.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK Everyone, great news!!!
The bike is back to kind of normal again.
I think it was actually the camshaft skipping teeth.
I took off the head cover and changed the headgasket while I was at it.
Then I put it back, corrected the timing, thank goodness for my brother marking the chain and the sprocket before doing anything in the beginning.
After I spinned it with, I noticed the chain got tight and jumped a teeth.
Fixed everything put everything back to the way it was.
While I was putting everything back, I swtiched up the throttle body plug and the map sensor and forgot to plug in the vaccum hose for it.
This caused the bike to jump to 3K rpm right on start, bad idle and when the rpm came back down the bike would die.
And it also caused a lot of white smoke, excessive gas.
Which I am thinking was the WD-40 i used to clean the engine inside at first
then the gas
because the smelled changed from the beginning to a little while later.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I do appreciate all those who gave input
if this occur to anyone just try what I did, instead of buying new fuel pump and injectors and cleaning them out and stuff.
Now i just have to find time to install the fuel pump my mechanic made me buy, thinking that was it. 😄😅🙁+
But hey I was gonna do it later, guess later is going to come sooner than i was thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
But now I have a small electrical problem i think
everytime I switch the bike on, where the fuel pump prime, almost to the end of the fuel pump prime session, there is like a small buzz kind of sound.
Kind of sound electrical.
Does anyone know what this might be?
Injectors?
I rode the bike around and everthing.
And everything seemed fine.
But it is just that sound that bothers me most of the time.
It only comes up most of the time, not all. I tried to see what I am doing different but, nothing i am doing is different.
It kind of sounds like that tesla ball or something, that you would touch to get a small shock, but it sounds a lot faster
 

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something electrical shorting/arcing? wire pinched when tank put back on or a loose spade terminal on the tank?
 
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