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You guys, sswiss3000 and Kensu, have done a great conversation, very useful to the rest of us having the same issue. At the moment, I am at the stage where I have removed forks (to replace the seals), triple tree bearings (needed replacement), radiator and headpipes and will do the full bleed as soon as I have some time available. I will then let you know how it went.
glad to know that this conversation help you.

just need to understand how Swiss3000, the bleed master, made the home made tool to bleed to front unit.
 

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Hi !

Ready to do the "royal flush" ^_^ this week end, purchased all the items & tools needed.

Just one question : i'm not sure to be able to make the difference between the old brake fluid and the new one.

Would there be any way to add a color in the current brake fluid in order me to see when the old brake fluid is totally out ?

because i have already bleeded the front & rear brake with a new brake fluid 2 weeks ago , and the global color is quite clear.

i don't know exactly which color will be the new one (MOTUL RBF 700)...

Do you have an idea about how i could be ensured that the old brake fluid is totally out ?

Add a color ? lol
Use a pink brake fluid ? (Shimano one, for bicycle)
use a old dirty & brown brake fluid ?
Others ?

Thanks for your support
 

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Hi !

Ready to do the "royal flush" ^_^ this week end, purchased all the items & tools needed.

Just one question : i'm not sure to be able to make the difference between the old brake fluid and the new one.

Would there be any way to add a color in the current brake fluid in order me to see when the old brake fluid is totally out ?

because i have already bleeded the front & rear brake with a new brake fluid 2 weeks ago , and the global color is quite clear.

i don't know exactly which color will be the new one (MOTUL RBF 700)...

Do you have an idea about how i could be ensured that the old brake fluid is totally out ?

Add a color ? lol
Use a pink brake fluid ? (Shimano one, for bicycle)
use a old dirty & brown brake fluid ?
Others ?

Thanks for your support
Flush till your hand hurts or you are out of brake fluid. Once you open a bottle of brake fluid you can't store it anyway. As such, just flush all of it through the system. If you use a clear tube on the bleeder, you can see how much fluid you push with each pull on the brake lever. It's usually less than an inch. Then you can do some rough calculations on how long the lines are and that will give you a good idea how much you need to flush through the system. As always more is better :)
 

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Flush till your hand hurts or you are out of brake fluid. Once you open a bottle of brake fluid you can't store it anyway. As such, just flush all of it through the system. If you use a clear tube on the bleeder, you can see how much fluid you push with each pull on the brake lever. It's usually less than an inch. Then you can do some rough calculations on how long the lines are and that will give you a good idea how much you need to flush through the system. As always more is better :)
thanks man.

so, with the experience you do have on bleeding c-abs, would you have any idea of the volume (in OZ) of brake fluid for the front lines ? (valve unit + power unit + normal lines)
of the rear lines ? (valve unit + power unit + normal lines)

because i purchased 4 bottles of 16OZ each, if i can save 1 bottle, it would be not too bad :)
 

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Dear sswiss3000,

If i'm right, you did write the "C-ABS Bleed Notes V8.pdf", right ?

If yes, could you please explain me why we have to do twice the front right calliper bleeding as mentionned below (and on page 8) ? Why we don't bleed the front left calliper ?

 Release the Front Brake Lever
 Connect a bleed hose to the bleed nipple on the Front RIGHT Calliper (Open nipple a little)
 Apply & Release the Rear Brake Peddle
A small amount of fluid will be expelled from the Front Right calliper accompanied by a distinct noise. The
system will now move to the next step in the procedure & the indicator will begin blinking four times.
 Close the Bleed Nipple
 Continue to bleed air from the Front Right Calliper in the conventional way using the Front Brake
Lever
 Apply & Release the Rear Brake Peddle


THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
 

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kensou,

I did not write the instructions. Some other member did that based on the OEM Shop manual. You can find it at the below link. (good luck with that) :grin

https://www.expandingknowledge.com/Jerome/Motorcycle/Model/2009HondaCBR1000RRABS/Maintenance/Combined_ABS_Air_Bleeding.pdf
OK
I had already donwloaded it, but i had planned to use the V8 version , that seemed clearer for me.
As i have a doubt about the duplicated step, gonna crosscheck with the official version.
 

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OK
I had already downloaded it, but i had planned to use the V8 version , that seemed clearer for me.
As i have a doubt about the duplicated step, gonna crosscheck with the official version.
Kensou, sounds like a plan. let me know if you find any issues. I looked at the OEM manual and my head started to spin when i was trying to go through it. So I decided to follow the the user generated manual :)
 

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Hi !

just to give you a small update : i started the operation last sunday...

i completed successfully the front valve/power unit, normal lines section.
--> made a home tool for the front power unit bleed valve, like you sswiss3000 : i don't know how you made it exactly, but i purchased a set of tubular wrenchs, followed suit 3 of them, inserted a hose... (see attached photos).
used 2 bottles of 500ml to flush the front braking system. it's a lot, but at least, i'm sure all is clean.

next time, will process the rear braking system.

in conclusion, as you said, it's really not complex, just it takes time.

to be continued...

Question : how to remove properly the fuel tank in order to access to the rear power unit ?
i'm afraid to break something. for the moment, just unscrewed the 4 bolts.

Thanks again
 

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kensou, I only remove the front two bolts on the tank and lossened the rear two so that I can fold the tank up a bit. I then bled the rear actuator from there. It's a bit tight of a fit, but you don't have to remove the entire tank.
 

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kensou, I only remove the front two bolts on the tank and lossened the rear two so that I can fold the tank up a bit. I then bled the rear actuator from there. It's a bit tight of a fit, but you don't have to remove the entire tank.
you're my saver, thank you !!!
 

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Hi !

Happy new year everyone !

Full abs bleeding & flushing done (used MOTUL RBF 660 RACING)
Front Braking becomes now efficient and hard at the lever.
ABS light disappears.

Thanks everyone for your support.

Just a last question, while mounting back everything, one part falled on the floor but i don't know what is it & where was the exact location ?

pictures of the part are attached to this post.

does anyone know where it does come from ?

I know it comes from the gas tank area, but i dont know exactly.

Merci beaucoup pour votre aide.
 

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Hi !

Happy new year everyone !

Full abs bleeding & flushing done (used MOTUL RBF 660 RACING)
Front Braking becomes now efficient and hard at the lever.
ABS light disappears.

Thanks everyone for your support.

Just a last question, while mounting back everything, one part falled on the floor but i don't know what is it & where was the exact location ?

pictures of the part are attached to this post.

does anyone know where it does come from ?

I know it comes from the gas tank area, but i dont know exactly.

Merci beaucoup pour votre aide.
I would guess those are the rubbers holding the rear screws for the tank mount on either side.
 

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I would guess those are the rubbers holding the rear screws for the tank mount on either side.

Thanks man !

Actually, i did not remove the tank cover, so i could not rotate fully the tank, and could not see clearly inside...

So, is there any difficulty to remove the tank cover ? i guess that i would just need to unmount the tank cap + the 2 rear screws ?
 

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Thanks man !

Actually, i did not remove the tank cover, so i could not rotate fully the tank, and could not see clearly inside...

So, is there any difficulty to remove the tank cover ? i guess that i would just need to unmount the tank cap + the 2 rear screws ?
No Need to remove anything from the tank cap. In order to remove the plastic tank cover you just remove 4 small bolts (two by the front and two under the seat). Then you just pull up on the tank from both sides.
 

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No Need to remove anything from the tank cap. In order to remove the plastic tank cover you just remove 4 small bolts (two by the front and two under the seat). Then you just pull up on the tank from both sides.
OK thank you !
so i understand now why i cannot remove it with the 4 unscrewed bolts... this is because i have a tank bag holder, mounted on the tank cap lol

keep you informed.
 

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Dear sswiss3000,
due to corona restrictions, I found finally the time to do the full bleeding of the ABS. After removing head pipes and radiator, I noticed that the brake pipe that leads to the front ABS power unit is not thermally shielded (see attached image), while it is placed right behind the head pipes. Do you think that it would make any sense, after completing the bleeding, to cover it with a heat-proof thermal shield, before re-assembling the head-pipes, radiator etc?
Thanks a lot,
Savvas
brake pipe.jpg
 

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Savvas C, Sounds like a reasonable idea. To be honest I am not sure if that would make things better by keeping the heat away from the brake line or worse by insulating the heat in the brake line so that it can't cool down as well. :) I am no Thermal Engineer, maybe someone else can voice their opinion about this idea.
 
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