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Savvas C, Sounds like a reasonable idea. To be honest I am not sure if that would make things better by keeping the heat away from the brake line or worse by insulating the heat in the brake line so that it can't cool down as well. :) I am no Thermal Engineer, maybe someone else can voice their opinion about this idea.
Thanks for sharing your view on this!!
I might just put an aluminium reflective tape around the tube, which I read in another thread that someone has put this tape on the external surface of the thermal shield of the motor unit.

I would also like to ask you the following:
1. When you use the extra long extension with the 8mm socket, linked to the ratchet handle tool, to bleed the motor unit without removing the headpipe and the radiator, how can the brake fluid find its way out of the socket to run down to the canister?
2. Do you think that it matters to re-cap the nipple with the rubber cap, after finishing the bleeding?
Thanks again so much!
 

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Savvas C, The reflective tape sounds like a good idea. Reflect the radiant heat, yet doesn't retain too much heat. As for your two questions:

1. The brake fluid simply gets pushed out between the socket and extension (brakes can exert somewhere between 800 and 2000PSI), it will find its way. It's a bit of a mess, but as long as you create a nice little cover for both the engine and headers with Tin foil, you can have it funneled down to the catch pan.
2. It would be good if you could put the rubber cap back on the bleed nipple. It took me a pretty long time to do it with two long screw drivers (pain in the A**). Worst case scenario, you can leave it off. Its only purpose is to keep dirt from accumulating in the nipple. There are many vehicles that don't have those caps and they work just fine.
 

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Thanks, this is all clear!
I just did not understand what you mean by saying "Reflect the radiant heat, yet doesn't retain too much heat.".
 

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i would have thought some sort of shielding it would help, but that is only an opinion.. DOT 4 brake fluids must have a minimum dry boiling point of 230°C so perhaps Honda didn't think it necessary, however that's new fluid - over time perhaps it's boiling point lowers hence the problems with the ABS with older fluid and heat.
 

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Thanks, this is all clear!
I just did not understand what you mean by saying "Reflect the radiant heat, yet doesn't retain too much heat.".
Savvas C, Insulation not only keeps outside heat (Engine & Exhaust) from heating whatever it protects (brake line), it also keeps hot things (brake line) from cooling down (for a while). Where as a reflecting cover doesn't retain heat as much, yet it reflects radiant heat to some extent. If my layman explenation makes no sense, below is a quick excerpt i found online. Maybe that makes more sense:

"Radiant heat travels in a straight line away from any surface and heats anything solid that absorbs its energy. Most common insulation materials work by slowing conductive heat flow and -- to a lesser extent -- convective heat flow. Radiant barriers and reflective insulation systems work by reducing radiant heat gain."
 

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Dear Sswiss3000,
today I did the full bleeding protocol of the ABS unit, following your instructions. Great instructions, very explanatory. It went smoothly. I am worried though about a strange sound that I hear very close to the front valve unit. The issue is the following: After finishing the whole bleeding process, I noticed that when I press strongly and repeatedly the front brake lever (the bike sitting at the stand), I hear an air leakage-like sound close to the front valve unit (I can’t really tell the exact location of the sound). The sound is like fst-fst. When I press the lever, I hear the 1st fst, when I release the lever I hear the sound again, as if I blow inside a ballon and then release the air from it. What worries me is whether the sound is due to some leakage inside the valve unit or at the linkages of the tubes going to the valve unit. Have you noticed this sound? Could you please check whether you get the same sound? To check, bring you ear close to the valve unit and press repeatedly and strongly the front brake lever.
Thank you in advance for your precious help.
Best,
Savvas
 

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Dear Sswiss3000,
today I did the full bleeding protocol of the ABS unit, following your instructions. Great instructions, very explanatory. It went smoothly. I am worried though about a strange sound that I hear very close to the front valve unit. The issue is the following: After finishing the whole bleeding process, I noticed that when I press strongly and repeatedly the front brake lever (the bike sitting at the stand), I hear an air leakage-like sound close to the front valve unit (I can’t really tell the exact location of the sound). The sound is like fst-fst. When I press the lever, I hear the 1st fst, when I release the lever I hear the sound again, as if I blow inside a ballon and then release the air from it. What worries me is whether the sound is due to some leakage inside the valve unit or at the linkages of the tubes going to the valve unit. Have you noticed this sound? Could you please check whether you get the same sound? To check, bring you ear close to the valve unit and press repeatedly and strongly the front brake lever.
Thank you in advance for your precious help.
Best,
Savvas
Savvas, does that happen only when the engine is running or also turned off?
 

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The sound is very mild. It would not be possible to hear it with the engine is running. I hear it only when the bike is turned off, have my ear very close to the valve unit and press strongly and repeatedly the front brake lever.
 

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Savvas,

I have no noises it all. The only thing i can hear is a quick little click when i pull the brake initially. Besides that the is no "fst-fst" noise it all. Sorry
 

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Thanks for the reply. Another strange thing that I notice is that, if I try hard, I can pull the lever almost all the way back to the handle. How far you can pull the brake lever in your bike, by applying a lot of hand power on the lever?
 

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Savaas,

Same here. Pushing very hard with the engine off you can bring the lever almost all the way to the bar. When I drive, the brakes will grab very quickly, but as soon as you slow down below past the minimum speed for the brake system to work the brakes become much spongier again. Based on my understanding as well as both of my bikes, that is normal. It simply means that the combined ABS brakes switch off and normal direct brake lines take over again.
 

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Dear Swiss, its me again. I am trying now to bleed the rear power and valve units. I find very hard to reach the nipple of the rear power unit, and to accommodate the spanner, as there are cable harnesses running on top of it. In one of the figures that you posted, I noticed that you lifted the gas tank and took it out of the way, without disconnecting the gas tube. Yet, how do you get out of the way the cable harnesses that are above the power unit, given the very limited space that they can move around? Did you disconnect them?
Many thanks,
Savvas
 

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[B]Savvas C[/B], I used a little box wrench and the vacuum bleeder from Harbor freight to bleed that nipple. I just pushed the wire harness to the side as much as possible. It is a bit of a pain, but that's what I did. I actually used that bleeding tool for all the nipples.

108204
 

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I removed all cables and tubings connecting to the gas tank (except the gas tube), removed all screws holding the gas tank on the frame, lifted the tank and twisted it 90 degrees and placed it on the side, to make room to reach the nipple of the rear power unit. As you said, pushing the cable harness on the side makes enough room to accommodate the tubing to the nipple and the spanner. Bleeding of the complete system went smoothly. Great help! Thanks
 

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I removed all cables and tubings connecting to the gas tank (except the gas tube), removed all screws holding the gas tank on the frame, lifted the tank and twisted it 90 degrees and placed it on the side, to make room to reach the nipple of the rear power unit. As you said, pushing the cable harness on the side makes enough room to accommodate the tubing to the nipple and the spanner. Bleeding of the complete system went smoothly. Great help! Thanks
Great to hear it all worked out for you. was this the first time you ever bleed the system? If so, do you feel much of a difference?
 

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Great to hear it all worked out for you. was this the first time you ever bleed the system? If so, do you feel much of a difference?
I just completed the bleeding (3-4 times front and rear). So, I need to put the other parts on the bike (radiator, headings fairings) and then test it. I will let you know if ABS works and if the trouble (when the brakes get hot) is solved!
 

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Hi,
I noticed a strange thing and would like to ask the opinion of sswiss3000 (our expert on the ABS system), or any other friend that has the ABS model (2009). Starting with totally cold brakes and bike, after driving for around 3-5 km or so, on the highway, at 120 km/h or higher, without using the brakes at all, I stoped (without using the brakes) and found that all callipers (front and rear) and the rotors (disks) are quite warm. I could say they are a bit hot. I could keep by hand on them, but it was not a comfortable temperature. I checked the same on my other bike (CB1300), again driving for around 5 km, without pressing the brakes, and found them totally cold. Did you guys also notice with your ABS fireblade that the calipers and the disks get warm (or rather hot) when you drive, even without using the brakes? I guess the heating is due to dragging of the brake pads on the rotors. Could this be due to the brake pads not retracting sufficiently (after you release the lever), perhaps due to the long pipes and corners and the long distance the brake fluid has to travel back in the labyrinthine of the ABS system? If this is the case, i.e. the cause is the building of the ABS system, I do not worry, as there is not much to do. Yet, if it has to do with my particular bike (damaged rotors, calipers, hoses), then I should look at it and try to fix it. I have already replaced the brake fluid of the complete system (valve units and power units, thanks to the sswiss instructions), and the seals of the calliper pistons, which did not make any difference on the above issue.
Thanks,
Savvas

PS. As a feedback to Sswiss, after bleeding the complete system, it remains for me to test whether, after heavy usage of the brakes, the problem of loosing the ABS brakes is solved. I haven't had yet the time to test this issue properly.
 
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