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900RR 95 KNOCKING IN THE CLUTCH

13809 Views 41 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  bladeracer
ok so i cleaned my carbs and got the bike started after sitting for 8 months its got like a knocking on clutch side

rough at idle but smooths out pretty good above 3k rpm

I NOTICED: it stops when i pull the clutch in


ALSO: i noticed that i put it in first with the clutch in it jumps like the clutch isnt in an it dies.

BUT: i can Put it in second and take off but first jumps and back tire spins


ANY IDEAS CLUTCH BASKET? WHAT WOULD MAKE IT KNOCK WHEN I LET THE CLUTCH OUT?

basket( I think)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyky4jMrLE4

Plates
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRK1b1LI-B0
21 - 40 of 42 Posts
video has 30 seconds till its full thats all i have seeing as how i couldnt get the gravity feed to work


any info on videos i posted?

supposed to be that much play?

Ring around my clutch
video has 30 seconds till its full thats all i have seeing as how i couldnt get the gravity feed to work


any info on videos i posted?

supposed to be that much play?

Ring around my clutch
To gravity feed the carbs you have to bypass the pump. Connect the fuel line directly from the fuel tap to the carbs. And you will need a decent amount of fuel in the tank and/or raise the tank higher than the carbs.

Very dark videos but the clutch play looks normal.
Can't tell what the marks are on the steels. Maybe after you clean them. Should've been done before the new clutch was installed. You will also have to check them for warpage.
Did everything come apart in their correct positions - in particular the judder spring and seat and the inner and outer fibres?
Correct number of steels and fibres?
in vid one is it in gear as the centre drum should rotate freely?

check the judder plate is fitted first then the thinner friction plate (it is the same size but the inner dia is larger so it goes over the judder spring)
then metal plate friction plate etc

im still of the opinion the box is at fault as your clutch looks ok.

40k miles is when the boxes often go wrong.

if you can get the rear wheel of the ground and remove the plugs and then see if you can rotate the engine with it in gear and then get somone to opperate the clutch and see what happens.
this should highlight any box issues is if it disengages in 2nd 3rd 4thetc and jams in first its the box.

as its jamming in first i think the first gear dogs or selector forks are damaged and this is the problem.(hope im wrong but the clutch would be a problem in all the gears im afraid)
this is classic wheelie and novice rider abuse.

try the above first as its hard on a forum to diagnose a fault like this
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in vid one is it in gear as the centre drum should rotate freely?
It looked to me like it was rotating freely.
He was just showing us the noise from the transmission lash.
It looked to me like it was rotating freely.
He was just showing us the noise from the transmission lash.
yes i agree :thumb: it just looks like a gear box prob to me.

thought the lash was ok for a 40k motor.

just strickes me as a abused 1st gear
yes i agree :thumb: it just looks like a gear box prob to me.

thought the lash was ok for a 40k motor.

just strickes me as a abused 1st gear
I was thinking transmission as well but he's since said it's the same in first and second so I think the clutch is simply not disengaging.
I was thinking transmission as well but he's since said it's the same in first and second so I think the clutch is simply not disengaging.

ahhh missed that so hopefully its just incorectly installed:thumb:
yeah guys he was a "stunter" Poser so he prolly did

would the plates bein in wrong cause the clutch to not disengage? and knock?



**** it, im just getting a fuel pump relay and ridin the **** outta her till she dies then throwin to the scrapyard im done with it

thanks for all your help guys
yeah guys he was a "stunter" Poser so he prolly did

would the plates bein in wrong cause the clutch to not disengage? and knock?



**** it, im just getting a fuel pump relay and ridin the **** outta her till she dies then throwin to the scrapyard im done with it

thanks for all your help guys
It's not abnormal to have clutch noise from the damper springs, especially if it's been hammered hard.
From engaged to disengaged is only a mm or so of travel in the clutch so it doesn't need to be far off to not work one way or the other.
If any of the plates are in wrong you would expect it to not work correctly.
so you think it could be the dampner springs?

if so it gives me new hope

either spend 500 on a used 919 motor with harnes and 15k plus the front harness for the newer gauges :)

or drop 500 on a new clutch basket dampner springs and new clutch


which we feelin boys?

im leaning to upgrading to 919 motor and gauges and keeep my other as a spare for my stunt events

dont worry though i actually know how to handle this lol
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so you think it could be the dampner springs?

if so it gives me new hope

either spend 500 on a used 919 motor with harnes and 15k plus the front harness for the newer gauges :)

or drop 500 on a new clutch basket dampner springs and new clutch


which we feelin boys?

im leaning to upgrading to 919 motor and gauges and keeep my other as a spare for my stunt events

dont worry though i actually know how to handle this lol
It seems like it if the noise stops when you load the clutch up.
There's no such word as dampner.
If the only problem with the clutch is the damper springs I wouldn't worry about it, it's just noise. Loose damper springs won't be causing the clutch to stay locked up though.
That's good value for a Hornet engine but the Hornet is a very different type of power output to the Blade.
Since it appears you've barely ridden the bike I'd be inclined to ride it before replacing the engine.
It seems like it if the noise stops when you load the clutch up.
There's no such word as dampner.
If the only problem with the clutch is the damper springs I wouldn't worry about it, it's just noise. Loose damper springs won't be causing the clutch to stay locked up though.
That's good value for a Hornet engine but the Hornet is a very different type of power output to the Blade.
Since it appears you've barely ridden the bike I'd be inclined to ride it before replacing the engine.
o no no no i also have a 96 900 with a 919 thats my stunter now and i havnt dropped it so i got this one to make my 96 the street bike before i F**k the plastics up :D

and one bolt holding my pressure plate it broken off and the guy i got it from did the clutch himself (which by getting sealand all in the oil you can tell he did it all wrong) and my discs are all burnt up and scarred.

but i dont have a micrometer to tell

ALSO:

would the clutch basket bearing cause the knock?

and then i just hope my discs are worn thats why its not working correctly?
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o no no no i also have a 96 900 with a 919 thats my stunter now and i havnt dropped it so i got this one to make my 96 the street bike before i F**k the plastics up :D

and one bolt holding my pressure plate it broken off and the guy i got it from did the clutch himself (which by getting sealand all in the oil you can tell he did it all wrong) and my discs are all burnt up and scarred.

but i dont have a micrometer to tell

ALSO:

would the clutch basket bearing cause the knock?

and then i just hope my discs are worn thats why its not working correctly?
Do you mean your '96 has a Hornet 919 engine instead of its original Blade 919 SC33 engine?
If you have a broken bolt on one of the clutch springs I would think that's probably why it's not disengaging.
You don't need a micrometer to check the plates for warpage if that's what you mean? You lay them on a true surface and slide feeler strips underneath to measure warp.
ALSO:

would the clutch basket bearing cause the knock?

and then i just hope my discs are worn thats why its not working correctly?
Not that I've ever heard.
As above, if a bolt is broken then the pressure plate is going to be canted and is probably what's causing it not to disengage.
Perhaps if you'd mentioned that earlier we might have explained.
i mean worn out

and yes the hornet swap, i love it :)

and i really dont think thats the prob cuz he said it did that before he broke it off

but im thinkin the bolts were too tight seeing how he broke one he prolly over torqued them, soon as i get my torque wrench ill put em to spec

but i noticed on bike bandit it says i have two judder springs

but when i took it all out it looked as if i only had one and even then it felt like a rubber ring??

almost certain thats the prob now that i re read all this thread.
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if you do some of the things suggested it wont cost you anything but you have to have a look first.

it may be nothing more than the plates put in wrong in which case change them round.

but check before you spend $500
if you do some of the things suggested it wont cost you anything but you have to have a look first.

it may be nothing more than the plates put in wrong in which case change them round.

but check before you spend $500
well the clutch basket is for sure with a broken bolt and so is the clutch plates 1 they got like surface rust 2 the steel plates are engraved(not from normal wear) and burned 3 the outside like teeth on the friction plates are engraved and the pressure plate springs are lookin like the original maybe they are worn?
Ok I know this is a super old thread but what exactly was the problem. The 95 (00rr I just got is making the same exact noise when in Neutral and the clutch lever is let out.
could be the clutch basket is bad. had 93 i worked on and the basket had a loose bushing that is pressed in allowing it to move on the bushing. made all kinds of racket while in neutral or the clutch was disengaged.
So did you have to replace basket or just fix bushing issue?
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