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Discussion Starter #1
Right. I just bought me an old -93 vintage blade. As i´ve took it upon myself to just give things in general a go over i took the clutch down.
Q is;
Does the early blades all carry 9 friction discs? Cause when i take a look in the OEM -96;er manual it sure looks like the 919 carries 10.
Or an i just barking up an empty tree here?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
True.
I measured them tho and they clicked at just over 3mm thickness. The issue is that when i picked the bike up all slack in the adjustment dept was used up.
Took the clutch apart and checked and the thing is that i didn´t really find anything out of normal.
So,to get the lever at the engine side more in phase as far as correct angle vs the wire what i did was that i turned a 5mm spacer in the lathe and installed that between the actuator(pt 13 in the scetch) and the throwout bearing-kind of problem solved cause all the adjuster could be turned back asf.....and the clutch sure turned a LOT lighter as the lever was set at a more appropriate angle due to a more correct tangial movement.

Now..it doesn´t slip as is. I´ve got no appreciable wear at the longitudal actuator bar...nor at the actuator itself,not that i can see at least,but i appreciate that something is amiss here and the Q is what?

Don´t get me wrong!
Clutch works all fine n dandy. That´s not the issue. It´s just that my homebrew 5mm spacer of course shouldn´t be needed to make this work.
 

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Please let us know if you find out what the issue is, Im all out of adujustment space as well and my clutch is fine. Had me scratching my head as well, altough I did find out that the springs in my bike are not stock.....all except 1!!!!wtf This bike came from the land of the hack if you ask me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I´d be happy to.
What you can do,as a temp fix,is to do what i did. Just turn a small spacer of 5mm height.(Any machine shop should be able to pull that for a pack of coffee..)
Get the pressure plate off the bike. I presume you´re aware that you need to unbolt the 6 (?) screws holding the pressureplate springs and pressure plate in place.

As you get the pressureplate off of there the actuator and throwout bearing will follow suite.
Take the actuator out of the throwout bearing and install the spacer onto the actuator,where the throwout bearing resided earlier. Then install the bearing ontop of the spacer.
Put it all back together and in doing so check to see that the actuator still has freedome of movement back and forth with finger pressure ONLY. This freeplay is what sets the angle of the clutch arm that you activate with the clutch wire and the point here is to check that the armtravel in "idle" so to say is past the center/tangents position for the arm.
This way the arm will travel over the point of maximum fulcrum as you depress the clutch and that brings that the gearing of the arm will be put through its maximum-which in turn is what can be felt in the clutchlever as it turns MUCH softer to use.

Point here is...this way,with the little spacer installed,you haven´t really destroyed anything. It is a quick fix to alleviate the issue at hand-which is a clutchlever that first and foremost can´t be adjusted and what´s more,by that,just turns heavier to work than it should.
Ie; if we DO find out why this is....u can just pick it apart and toss the spacer out of there and til we do..it is a quick fix to handle the problem at least.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Have given this some thought...and first of all it might very well be that Bladeracer hit a point.
The friction discs might FIT alright...that is NOT to say that they are the stock thickness for an early Blade.
For the -96 vs the late -97 alone Honda specs a thickness difference of approx 0.3mm.
That stack up...as 9 discs times 0.3mm in this case turns out to almost 3mm.
Have in mind that the shim i turned in my lathe...i made 5mm thick and that makes the whole thing work as clockwork.
Now...if we presume slight differences in steel thickness too...that also stacks up..

Zee....just like you i have no issues per se with my clutch at all. Doesn´t slip or anything of the sorts. It is JUST a question of set height for the activator that works the throwoutbearing alone...which if left unaltered will have you use up all of the adjustment of the clutchwire.

Now...like in your case my clutchsprings hasn´t been left alone either. In my case though they look like the originals it´s just that they for some reason are shimmed. To use shims for a coilspring to develop any serious difference in clamping pressure...yeah well...2mm won´t really suffice for much.
Dunno at your end but around here a popular mod to more or less any high power bike is to use the Hayabusa dittos. In short? No matter what spring really as it is within realms and gets the job done.

So.
What i´m proposing is that there really isn´t anything wrong with our clutches...very much like what BR implies....it´s just that although our friction discs FIT...that doesn´t say they are the correct thickness,and if someone around with the OEM spec for the early blades could voice up here...that might very well be log,stock n barrel...in which case i at least advice you to turn a spacer like i did on a lathe...easy enough to do as long as the lathe is there and is all in all a to the letter 5 min job.
What i in that case CAN tell you is that if your frictions clock in at 3mm+....a total 5mm spacer between the activator and the throwout bearing WILL do the trick. Difference in force needed to work the clutch is like night n day even...it turns that much smoother.

Btw.
When having your clutch apart in such a scenario it might be an idea to have an orbital sander with some 120 grit at hand. Sand each steel a minimal amount on both sides before putting it all together again. Just a word of advice. :eyebrows:
 
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