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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello was out riding with a buddy and the 'blade ran fine until we stopped to get fuel. After filling up there is no power to the dash when the key is turned on. Checked fuses, diode, battery, and even replaced the magnetic starter switch assembly since it had some corrosion and it failed the service manual's test. We figured that since there is no power it should be a ground issue, and sure enough the kickstand switch continuity test shows bad ground. Before I order this part however I am curious if this could actually cause the symptoms I am describing. By the looks of the diagram the ignition circuit uses the neutral safety and kickstand switches as path to ground. Are we on the right track here?

What makes me hesitant is that even with a bad kickstand switch shouldn't we still be getting dash lights? I am hoping it is not the ignition module or ignition switch assembly because those are hideously expensive. I didn't personally test the ignition switch, but my cousin did and said it was good (per service manual).

Appreciate the assistance.

[edit] it is a 1996
 

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Hello was out riding with a buddy and the 'blade ran fine until we stopped to get fuel. After filling up there is no power to the dash when the key is turned on. Checked fuses, diode, battery, and even replaced the magnetic starter switch assembly since it had some corrosion and it failed the service manual's test. We figured that since there is no power it should be a ground issue, and sure enough the kickstand switch continuity test shows bad ground. Before I order this part however I am curious if this could actually cause the symptoms I am describing. By the looks of the diagram the ignition circuit uses the neutral safety and kickstand switches as path to ground. Are we on the right track here?

What makes me hesitant is that even with a bad kickstand switch shouldn't we still be getting dash lights? I am hoping it is not the ignition module or ignition switch assembly because those are hideously expensive. I didn't personally test the ignition switch, but my cousin did and said it was good (per service manual).

Appreciate the assistance.

[edit] it is a 1996

Do you have voltage at the battery?
If you bypass the ignition switch do you get lights?
Have you checked the battery terminals and other connectors in the wiring harness?
Do you have any kind of alarm or immobiliser on the bike?
 

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As Blade said, work from the top down;

Battery voltage at right amount?
30A main fuse ok?
Voltage to ignition switch on red wire?
Voltage from ignition switch on red/black wire with key on?

You may have a short or open on the red/black circuit as it feeds the whole fuse block except for the fan. I don't know why your into the kickstand if nothing has power. Also run a continuity check between the battery negative post and the ground strap on the frame, touch the terminal, not the bolt, on the ground strap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No security devices on the bike at all, and battery, harness, and 30A fuse checked ok. My cousin (a honda mechanic) noted that the circuit grounds through the neutral safety and kickstand switches and a bad ground could cause the circuit to be open. I had thought I checked for continuity from negative batt term to frame ground but I will double check it.

We did continuity tests from the starter relay switch all the way up to and including the ignition switch. Our first suspects were the switches in that circuit but (supposedly since I didn't do all the testing) they checked good. I will test the voltage when I get a chance. Will update when I check those things.

The cousin I mentioned was trained as a motorcycle mechanic specializing in Hondas and even he was baffled by this. Obviously the circuit is open somewhere but the question is where. The idea of a ground failure in the kick/neutral switches came from a colleague of his that supposedly is something of a guru. I take everything with a grain of salt which is why im asking here before I go tearing the kickstand apart and pull the fuel tank.
 

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No security devices on the bike at all, and battery, harness, and 30A fuse checked ok. My cousin (a honda mechanic) noted that the circuit grounds through the neutral safety and kickstand switches and a bad ground could cause the circuit to be open. I had thought I checked for continuity from negative batt term to frame ground but I will double check it.

We did continuity tests from the starter relay switch all the way up to and including the ignition switch. Our first suspects were the switches in that circuit but (supposedly since I didn't do all the testing) they checked good. I will test the voltage when I get a chance. Will update when I check those things.

The cousin I mentioned was trained as a motorcycle mechanic specializing in Hondas and even he was baffled by this. Obviously the circuit is open somewhere but the question is where. The idea of a ground failure in the kick/neutral switches came from a colleague of his that supposedly is something of a guru. I take everything with a grain of salt which is why im asking here before I go tearing the kickstand apart and pull the fuel tank.

I had a wire come away from the board in the back of my ignition switch on the ZX6R so it's worth checking that. I found it by laying a knife across the wires to short them through the insulation.
If you don't have continuity from ground to the switches then maybe the earth junction has fried inside the harness.
Almost everything has grounds or earths to make the circuits back to the battery but they won't knock out other things if they're open.
 

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So your getting voltage to the fuse block on red/black with the key on then?
If that R/BL wire were open or shorted it would essentially knock out everything.

The bikes entire electrical system does not ground through the neutral safety switch or the kickstand switch. Your barking up the wrong tree there. They are only safety devices and would not prevent the dash from lighting up.

If you don't have power/ground to the dash, the bike won't start and this happened at the same time, then chances are you don't have power/ground to the ecm either and the bike wouldn't start with brand new neutral and kickstand switches.

Try running a wire from BL/G behind the dash to the battery negative and see if it lights up then with the key on. If so, try to start it. If it starts then you definitely have a bad common ground.

Your probably going to be pulling the gas tank to get to the harness, but forget about the kickstand and neutral switches.

I just finished completely going over my 96, trust me when I say I am intimately familiar with the wiring harness on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Eureka! Well I have to thank everyone here for steering me back to the right course. Saved me from buying two switches that I wouldn't have needed. I have to admit I am a little embarrassed since the problem was so easy. In a nutshell it was a loose/corroded connection between the ignition switch harness and the fuse block harness. Apparently when my cousin tested the ignition switch he tested it on the switch itself and not through the harness as recommended by the manual.

After we disconnected to test the switch via harness (tested good naturally) we reconnected and had the ignition switch on to start tracing voltage. When I plugged the connector back together everything came back on. Cleaned the connector with contact cleaner and we went riding. Froze our asses off but completely worth it. Thanks again guys.
 

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Eureka! Well I have to thank everyone here for steering me back to the right course. Saved me from buying two switches that I wouldn't have needed. I have to admit I am a little embarrassed since the problem was so easy. In a nutshell it was a loose/corroded connection between the ignition switch harness and the fuse block harness. Apparently when my cousin tested the ignition switch he tested it on the switch itself and not through the harness as recommended by the manual.

After we disconnected to test the switch via harness (tested good naturally) we reconnected and had the ignition switch on to start tracing voltage. When I plugged the connector back together everything came back on. Cleaned the connector with contact cleaner and we went riding. Froze our asses off but completely worth it. Thanks again guys.
Your welcome.
 
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