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Discussion Starter #1
It has been lot of threads about cam pulse generator on cbr 929. After rebuilding the engine, it started for 10 seconds. Then nothing. Fuel pump priming. Ignitors working. Tested the ignition sensor, shows 0.85v. When tested cam pulse generator, it shows 0.5v. So i bought a brand new one from honda. While crancking it shows 0.4v. New one. What could cause this to happend?
 

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Fuel = I have
Spark = I have
Compression = have I?

Cam timing?

I have no codes = Right, none.
I had to change the cam sensor = No codes present. Ding-ding-ding, wrong move! The ECU is smarter than you is it codes to tell you it's the sensor or look for the broken loop elsewhere.

Wire out of connector = was not.
connector not connected = was.
Sensor short to ground or 'signal out of range' = was not.

My eyes are burning down to here is I'm reading I'm being brainwashed to check compression is no start - no start - not my bike I'm working one.

Signed,
NOLTT (truth the tables told)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
New ECU came few days ago. After installation bike starts on 2 cylinders. Little messy. So i readjust cams. Put it all together, and same issue, no spark. It is not exactly no spark. I tought i seen some weak spark once while cranking.

I dont think that wrong timing can cause "no spark problem".
Its just weird, that new (used) ecu lasts few hours.
Cam sensor and ignition sensor are in some kind of conjuction.
Is it possible, that ecu is suppose to get signal at the right time from both sensors to release ground to the coils?
 

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Is it possible, that ecu is suppose to get signal at the right time from both sensors to release ground to the coils?
No, not really. Cam is telling the ecu where or who the next sequence in fire will be in a saved scenario; key off.

Crank wise, this is the coil trigger. The ecu has to know at what speed to fire, so this is where that reading takes place.

Cam = Saved in RAM.
Crank = Constant discharge.

I believe it's 1-4 TDC, left cam lobes [#1 cyl] facing outside. Horizontal line of the top of the head surface is the cam sprockets notches to lobes out. If not sprockets, the cams have a keyway notch and those notches are used as a horizontal line thru the middle of the notch to the horizontal line of the head. Cam phasing, maybe the spark was lost 180° out?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The timing is set just like in manual.
When it was firing on #1 and #4, checked the timing and cam marks were flush with head. But crank mark was on T. Not the line next to it.
Moved one tooth forward and now no spark.
Only moved exaust cam.
On the exaust cam is trigger for cam pulse sensor.
Can that be the issue?
Maybe computer remember on memory different time, and now dont want to trigger it.
 

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Cam timing:
When I sit on the bike, left is for left or #1 cylinder is who starts at what side for TDC. So when I set my 1-4 to the " l " mark next to the T, I want my #1 cam lobes to be pointed out. So both narrow ends of the cam lobes point out to the exhaust and intake ports. That's where your timing should be cam to crank position #1 TDC.

Notice I stand on the right side to line up the crank to TDC, and I continue to be on the right side of the bike, I point my #4 lobes outward is no, wrong cam position is that you assembled the cam sensor 180° out of phase. Get it? No spark then... is caught you on a perfect catch22. The bike only assembles one way.

Can RAM be Flashed or erased? That's a yes and no kind of watch how I believe how it works something like this:

RAM = Is volatile, meaning, erases when the key is turned off. What was saved goes to ground. The tach/speedo needles swing when key is on. This too erases anything in the way is to zero out itself to... The bike starts at 0. In ECU speak or in the binary process of the language is 0000 in machine speak. Your last move was to turn the bike off at idle. The crank is dead-key off = 0000 or no idle number saved is a dead engine is not matching crank speed. Why save an idle number for start? No way... Sort of make sense?

Flash: = This is a saved binary number to calc off of. The pc would be an example of how you would change the air to fuel ratio. This is a flashed map from base zero or say the ECU is set to ROM and you'd look at that being saved, no can flash. So instead of flashing the ECU to set the fuel trim, you reset the fuel by flashing the output signal from the ECU that was set to ROM @ 14.7 AFR. You however flashed a map to 13.1 AFR.

Can RAM be flashed is yes. Think of the radio in the car. You sort of flash your stations to the buttons.
Can flash be erased is yes. The flashed RAM is about to meet ground. Once the battery is removed, the radio reverts back to ROM or that flash you cannot touch or reflash sort of no you cannot flash the radio to your stations and battery off keeps them? Radio wise, no. This is the yes and no of it = Catch22 style.

How many can decipher this out is the processor only works one way and I'm stepping to the music.

a. So if my interpreters are out there, we are looking for 180° out of phase = No start.
b.We are looking for the swapped ECU that made no change is that sounds like both are good?
c. We are looking elsewhere like the processor needs 5v and if 12v or more at the battery is not there, bike only works one way is 12v into the ECU and 5v out is where is the battery if we are cranking with charger or just kept on cranking and never put a charger on it yet sort of got me by the testicles??
d. We did not swap ex cams with the cam sensor positioned degrees off is to look to see if the cam to crank sensors line up equally?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
1. I know where the cylinder #1is.
2. I know the marks for timing.
3. I have the honda manual.
4. I know where the tdc on #1 is.
5. I know where the T mark is.
6. I know where is the Imark next to T mark.

This is not the first bike i am working on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If it is missed for 180 degres cam lobes should face one to another.
Of course i am talking about cilynder #1.
First on my left hand when sitting on bike.
That doesnt make sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Solved it!!!
It was timing.
Exaust cam must be in proper position.
If it is not, no spark!
In my case ex cam was flush with head, and cranck mark was on 'T'.
Dont know how, but it is working.
For everybody who is going to test a cam sensor, it doesnt have to show 0.7v.
I have bought a brand new one from honda, test it, and the reading is 0.4v.
Of course it is working.
Need to adjust intake cam a little bit, because it is backfiring sometimes at #3, but cam sensor is working.
 

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First on my left hand when sitting on bike.
That doesnt make sense.
Sure it makes sense. Do I stand in front of the bike and look at the headlight as center, and my left hand points to the brake lever? I ask for a left lever, I come up with a brake lever? I don't think so.

I now walk up to the parts counter and ask for a right clutch lever because I stood in front of the bike and point right to some lever. So are we now saying the right clutch lever too?... Make sense now I sit on the bike and know one lever from the other, one cylinder from the other, I work at the parts counter and ask you which side you're standing on so we get our levers straight?
 
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