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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey ya'll, I have a 01 honda cbr that has had charging problems for the last 6 monthes. The battery will go dead leaving me stranded. I have changed everything in the charging system. still having the same issue. I am now looking at the most uncommon possible problem-the ignition. Because it's connected to the ECU and also connected to my alternator/stator, i believe it to be confusing my charging system and there for not charging my battery.....am I on the right track? or can you shed some light on the issue?:idunno:
 

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I can't imagine the ignition being involved in a No Charging problem. I take it you changed stator and the Reg/rectifier correct? Was it charging after any of that was done? Voltage output should have been tested at the battery while running. 14.0 - 15.5 volts at 5,000 rpm something like that.

Have you checked all your connector plugs to these parts? Quite often they overheat and make poor contact inside, sometimes not visible by looking at them. They must be pulled apart and inspected carefully and even checked for continuity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, I sure have. I have done all the test that the FI manual says to do. The bike seems to start and then after you let it just sit for a few minutes, still monitoring the meter, the voltage begins to slowly drop one increment at a time. If I turn the headlight on high during this test like your supposed to, it drains much faster. There was a part of the FI that spoke about a possible problem, but said it was the most difficult to troubleshoot/find, and that was the ignition swith. I know what your thinking! But it talks something about ECU and the fact that the Transformer/Rectifier thinking that the battery is undervoltage/overvoltaged, then basically drawing the respective power from the stator. I have replaced two stators, the original and an aftermarket that fit the specs for my bike, and two batteries, and the T/R unit. Now I do haved an aftermarket fuel management system from yoshimura when i bought my new pipe. There is one thing that makes me lean towards the ignition, and that's the fact that ever since i bought the bike, there has always been this fault blinking on my display. After taking the bike to a well known mechanic here on island, he told me that the manuel says that the light is because of a sensor on the ECU. He said, no biggie, just a sensor, you can change it if you want, but it's not going to do any harm, now im really wondering if that wasn't a tall tail sign from the ECU that the ignition might be bad. Well sorry about the rambling but just thought you should know all of that since it might help with things. Thanks for the advice, keep it coming!
 

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The bike seems to start and then after you let it just sit for a few minutes, still monitoring the meter, the voltage begins to slowly drop one increment at a time. If I turn the headlight on high during this test like your supposed to, it drains much faster.

There is one thing that makes me lean towards the ignition, and that's the fact that ever since i bought the bike, there has always been this fault blinking on my display. After taking the bike to a well known mechanic here on island, he told me that the manuel says that the light is because of a sensor on the ECU. He said, no biggie, just a sensor, you can change it if you want, but it's not going to do any harm, now im really wondering if that wasn't a tall tail sign from the ECU that the ignition might be bad. Well sorry about the rambling but just thought you should know all of that since it might help with things. Thanks for the advice, keep it coming!

What voltage do you have at the battery though?
It should be over 14V - if not then it's not charging.
Your description just sounds like the charging system isn't working.

The mechanic is an idiot - maybe he's well known because he's useless...
Yes, the MIL indicates a sensor problem...that you should fix.
Pull the error code and see what is causing it. Then check the connections to that sensor and fix the problem.
And get yourself a manual so you don't have to rely on idiots like that guy.
 

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if you have a full system, error code code be from not setting the htev solenoid properly, thus giving error.

as for charging.

during my many problems, i noticed that my RR went bad one time when it would charge the system while still cool, but once the RR started heating up and got hot it would stop charging. does your do that? if so then you may have found your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No, it doesn't do that. It just simply starts up and then gradually drains my battery. After charging the battery and starting at 13V across the battery. I start it up and it imediately goes to about 11.7 or so then dwindles down. When I crank it up to 5,000rpm's , i know it should be showing more then 14V across the battery but it doesn't seem to move. Yes, the obvious, my charging system is not working.
 

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No, it doesn't do that. It just simply starts up and then gradually drains my battery. After charging the battery and starting at 13V across the battery. I start it up and it imediately goes to about 11.7 or so then dwindles down. When I crank it up to 5,000rpm's , i know it should be showing more then 14V across the battery but it doesn't seem to move. Yes, the obvious, my charging system is not working.

The tests to check the stator are very quick and simple so do them first.
 

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Stator problem, the battery charging system is about as basic as it gets on these Hondas.

One thing that you havn't mentioned is the rotor. Has that got sufficient magnatism to energise the stator coils? With a largish steel screwdriver placed on the rotor it should be very difficult to pull it loose. It is, however, a very subjective test.
I am going with the general consensus that you have had a series of bad stators, do the test, its itemised many times on the site.
 

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well i to have the same problems man... i charge my battery and i have 13v then i crank the bike and it drops to about 12.3v well i rev the engine to 5,000 rpms and it only goes back up to 12.6 12.7v .... i have bought a new stator and new battery and this problem still is there! any tips??
 

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well i to have the same problems man... i charge my battery and i have 13v then i crank the bike and it drops to about 12.3v well i rev the engine to 5,000 rpms and it only goes back up to 12.6 12.7v .... i have bought a new stator and new battery and this problem still is there! any tips??
I am lost in this problem at the moment. I have searched and see many has the same problem. I see that they got it resolved by selling it.:lol:
 

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I am lost in this problem at the moment. I have searched and see many has the same problem. I see that they got it resolved by selling it.:lol:

If you own a Honda sportsbike you have to learn how to diagnose the charging system and you need to check it regularly.
 

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Many has changed out stator and regulator/rectifier only to find out that it's still not charging. Did you have the same problem?

I see many, many threads about people replacing components before they do the simple tests to confirm something has actually failed.
If you have a charging system problem then do the diagnostic tests to determine if any component has failed. If the components are good then you probably have a simple wiring problem.
 

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I see many, many threads about people replacing components before they do the simple tests to confirm something has actually failed.
If you have a charging system problem then do the diagnostic tests to determine if any component has failed. If the components are good then you probably have a simple wiring problem.
I agree with you. Do the test before you replace. My charging system is charging but it is not charging my battery.:lol: I checked the output of the rectifier and it outputs 13.7-14.5v but when I plugged it back it does not have the same. There seem to be a voltage drop some where and I've check all my connection for corrosion and good contact but still nothing.
 

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Generator Low Power Load Test

You shall need to make a special tool for this: Solder about 30cm of wire to the terminals of a spare 55W headlight bulb. Fit suitable crimp tags on the flying ends of these wires to insert into the connector block on the generator stator. Attach the meter clips onto the soldered joints on the end of the headlight bulb. This “Bulbtool” allows voltages to be measured while pulling a handy 4 or 5 Amp test current through the headlight bulb.

Leave the RR disconnected from the generator. Set the meter to read AC RMS VOLTS. Start up the engine. Connect the Bulbtool across any 2 of 3 phase wires from the generator. Measure the AC RMS VOLTS, at low IDLE speed. The voltage should be between 12V AC RMS and 15V AC RMS. Do NOT blip the throttle or rev up the engine, the bulb can burst with too much voltage applied.

Repeat this measurement for each combination of 2 probes on 3 wires, and write down the readings. The readings should all be similar, say 13.21, 13.00, 13.31. Volts If they are different or have any low values, say 13.21, 10.77, 10.82 Volts, then this indicates that the generator stator has an internal turn to- turn short circuit and the generator stator must be replaced.

The generator connections have to carry very high currents, typically 20Amps or more per phase, and all the time. If replacing terminals or crimps, these MUST be soldered after crimping. All readings closely similar and within range of 12V AC RMS to 15V AC RMS shows generator is good. Low readings or diverse readings shows generator stator is defective. Generator must be replaced.


Leakage resistance >10k, no problem evident.

Leakage resistance <10k, generator stator is probably defective and should be replaced.
 
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