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Discussion Starter #1
Riding along on the highway yesterday with constant throttle position just cruising, the bike started to get surgy. It would feel like it lost power for half a second then back to normal, then another loss of power, etc. It got bad enough that it was practically bucking. Each time, if I rolled onto the gas more, I could make it stop. I pulled over and decided to ride it down a sidestreet to get a better idea of what was happening.
It continued to happen, power cutting out then coming back. A couple of times after a strong cut in power the LCD and Tach would shut off, even though the bike was still running. Each time, they sprang back to life a few seconds later. This all culminated with the LCD dying and the Tach dropping to zero and then the motor actually sputtered and died as I came to a stop.
I turned the bike back on, the fuel pump seemed to not sound as stong as it normally does, but it started fine and I was able to limp it home - sometimes the motor would surge (lose power/regain it over and over) when I was at constant throttle position but I could overcome it with a bit more throttle.

So today, disconnected my PC3 and went for a ride and it's still happening. It started to surge on the highway and then the LCD/tach died and the whole bike died on the highway. As I was trying to merge over to the shoulder, it came back on and surged forward, then cut off again.

I checked the two relays behind the gauges - they don't get hot when the bike is running, and the PC3 is disconnected. What does this sound like?? The battery is excellent, full charge and none of this seems to affect the battery power...
Please tell me some things to go out and check on the bike.

-Ryan
 

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does sound like a batt prob.....check the + and the - connections, the engine will play up if there is a prob with the batt as will the clocks, they will shut down to save power, best to double check connections and batt, good luck..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
+ and - are tightened down. Nothing loose around there either.. the red wire (+) off the battery goes into what looks like a relay right by the battery and connections to that seem good too..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Out of nowhere. A few weeks ago I added the PC3, but it has run fine for weeks and as I stated, I disconnected it since that was the most recent change, but that has not affected anything - problem is still the same.

What is odd to me is how sometimes I can turn it on and ride around for 10 minutes with no problems. Other times 5 min into a ride the throttle gets dodgy and it gets worse and worse till the LCD is shutting off and the bike is dying.
 

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try this turn the bike on and disconnect the battery if it dies then its probly the stator and or the rr
 

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My 929 is doing the same thing re: surging, but I am not having the issue with the display going off.

I thought it was going to be fuel filter, so I went into the tank and found water/rust in there, and the old filter was full of rust. Swapped it out.

When I finally got it all back together yesterday, I filled it up with fresh fuel, and went for a 5 minute ride. It was still bucking like mad under full throttle, but seems OK under very light throttle?? Actually much worse than before.

Please post back if you find the issue, and I will do the same.

Cheers,
Jason






****EDIT****

I think I have just found my problem...15 minutes after posting this :D

It looks to be my dumb fault after re-attaching the main high pressure fuel hose back to the pump assembly...:O
I just looked at it with the tank installed, and it looks to have a huge kink in it! I found this after it wouldn't start for me after sitting overnight. :idunno: It looked like it may have weakened in that spot now, as it kinks as soon as I try and bent it a little, and no fuel flow.
I'll just replace the hose and be done with it! Unfortunately, it is now full of fuel, so a bit heavy to lift!
It certainly wasn't like it when I removed the tank.

So as a suggestion, I would check the fuel filter anyway. It cost me AU$106 for the filter, and would have taken about 40 minutes to do if I wasn't farting around. At least it is good insurance if it does not fix your issue. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, I'm tentatively going to post this as of course, these things like to let you think you have them fixed for 24 hours before re-emerging but...

You guys seem to have been spot-on about the battery. With a wiggle-test by hand the + and - leads seemed on the battery tight, but when I got a socket out to really tighten them, I found the negative lead, which I had only tightened with a screw driver, could be tightened much further with the socket wrench.

Now, it is running smooth as silk again... it really seems to have just been the negative terminal not being tight and solid enough!
 
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