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Discussion Starter #1
ok hi guys...i got a 2000 929...i grabbed it for 1700, when i purchased it it had a cold start problem. i would spray the "stuff" into the intake then after a while it would catch. Recently took the throttle body off and had it taken apart and cleaned. it sonds stronger than ever but doesnt want to turn over...2nd problem is the gas tank sparks when hitting the frame?n e ideas?...now im undecided about fixing it or parting out...at time of purchase i was told it had been dropped at about 25...since the fall, he said, he replaced the wiring harness(looks like a shity job).ok...so when i got it i immediatley put on new tires front n back, new spark plugs, new chain and sprockets,n new oil... rode it for about 3 weeks then took the throttle body off t otry n get rid of bogging in low rpm...now im at the point where it dnt want to start...sounds good when trying to turn over...it even backfired on me 2 times...then i stopped trying to turn it on...kinda scared now..lol...please and thank u on any advice...i realy want to get her running but would it make more sense to part out??? PLEASE HELP i WANNA GET RIDING!!again thank u in advance!p.s. if u live in san antonio and have experience with 929's and dont mind sharing a little knowledge and ur time please contact me...would love to talk to another local 929'r in person...Thanks everyone for reading and thanks to those who reply!!
 

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ok hi guys...i got a 2000 929...i grabbed it for 1700, when i purchased it it had a cold start problem. i would spray the "stuff" into the intake then after a while it would catch. Recently took the throttle body off and had it taken apart and cleaned. it sonds stronger than ever but doesnt want to turn over...2nd problem is the gas tank sparks when hitting the frame?n e ideas?...now im undecided about fixing it or parting out...at time of purchase i was told it had been dropped at about 25...since the fall, he said, he replaced the wiring harness(looks like a shity job).ok...so when i got it i immediatley put on new tires front n back, new spark plugs, new chain and sprockets,n new oil... rode it for about 3 weeks then took the throttle body off t otry n get rid of bogging in low rpm...now im at the point where it dnt want to start...sounds good when trying to turn over...it even backfired on me 2 times...then i stopped trying to turn it on...kinda scared now..lol...please and thank u on any advice...i realy want to get her running but would it make more sense to part out??? PLEASE HELP i WANNA GET RIDING!!again thank u in advance!p.s. if u live in san antonio and have experience with 929's and dont mind sharing a little knowledge and ur time please contact me...would love to talk to another local 929'r in person...Thanks everyone for reading and thanks to those who reply!!


When you say you removed the throttle bodies to fix low speed bogging, how low do you mean? The engine is not designed to perform well at all below about 3000rpm.
 

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ok hi guys...i got a 2000 929...i grabbed it for 1700, when i purchased it it had a cold start problem. i would spray the "stuff" into the intake then after a while it would catch. Recently took the throttle body off and had it taken apart and cleaned. it sonds stronger than ever but doesnt want to turn over...2nd problem is the gas tank sparks when hitting the frame?n e ideas?...now im undecided about fixing it or parting out...at time of purchase i was told it had been dropped at about 25...since the fall, he said, he replaced the wiring harness(looks like a shity job).ok...so when i got it i immediatley put on new tires front n back, new spark plugs, new chain and sprockets,n new oil... rode it for about 3 weeks then took the throttle body off t otry n get rid of bogging in low rpm...now im at the point where it dnt want to start...sounds good when trying to turn over...it even backfired on me 2 times...then i stopped trying to turn it on...kinda scared now..lol...please and thank u on any advice...i realy want to get her running but would it make more sense to part out??? PLEASE HELP i WANNA GET RIDING!!again thank u in advance!p.s. if u live in san antonio and have experience with 929's and dont mind sharing a little knowledge and ur time please contact me...would love to talk to another local 929'r in person...Thanks everyone for reading and thanks to those who reply!!
The gas tank sparks when it hits the frame?!

Well I would personally start with the harness since you said it's a hack job and your gas tank is "live". Besides, all your problems could stem from harness issues.

1) Do you have a multimeter?

2) Can you pour a small amount of fuel into each throttle body and get it to fire and run?

3) Does the spark from the tank occur with the key on or doesn't matter?
 

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Sounds like its "looking" for a ground, the spark you see is the connection being made for the fuel pump circuit. That would definatly cause hard/no start and low performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, im gona adress ur questiins in order, thanks again, yall r giving me the last hope I have...the bog comment, yes below 3000 rpm,common thing?
1) I dnt think I do...know if auto store sells it??
2)i havnt tried yet...should I before checking anything else?
3)key in and ignition on only...i hope !
A lil more info...battery drains very fast when trying to start...bad gas...totally empty tank and put new or just add 93octane??gas tank sat with very lil fuel...
Error codes 1,2,7,8,9,12,13,14,15.i know wat they mean....i need to know if it can all be fixed to run ok,at least?? Im writing this on my phone so please excuse all my mistakes,thanks guys yall r thebest...seriously
Ok...i did the pgm_fl ststem self diagnose test and came oyt wuth error codes
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, im gona adress ur questiins in order, thanks again, yall r giving me the last hope I have...the bog comment, yes below 3000 rpm,common thing?
1) I dnt think I do...know if auto store sells it??
2)i havnt tried yet...should I before checking anything else?
3)key in and ignition on only...i hope !
A lil more info...battery drains very fast when trying to start...bad gas...totally empty tank and put new or just add 93octane??gas tank sat with very lil fuel...
Error codes 1,2,7,8,9,12,13,14,15.i know wat they mean....i need to know if it can all be fixed to run ok,at least?? Im writing this on my phone so please excuse all my mistakes,thanks guys yall r thebest...seriously
Ok...i did the pgm_fl ststem self diagnose test and came oyt wuth error codes
 

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Ok, im gona adress ur questiins in order, thanks again, yall r giving me the last hope I have...the bog comment, yes below 3000 rpm,common thing?
1) I dnt think I do...know if auto store sells it??
2)i havnt tried yet...should I before checking anything else?
3)key in and ignition on only...i hope !
A lil more info...battery drains very fast when trying to start...bad gas...totally empty tank and put new or just add 93octane??gas tank sat with very lil fuel...
Error codes 1,2,7,8,9,12,13,14,15.i know wat they mean....i need to know if it can all be fixed to run ok,at least?? Im writing this on my phone so please excuse all my mistakes,thanks guys yall r thebest...seriously
Ok...i did the pgm_fl ststem self diagnose test and came oyt wuth error codes

Yes, poor bottom end power is normal when you push so much power out at 10-12000rpm.
1. Mulitmeters are available at lots of places.
2. No point with those codes as your injectors aren't working and you have no signal from the cam or crank sensors.
3. Fix the shorting before messing around with any more fuel.
Any sign of rust in the tank?
Empty it out and drain the fuel rail as well. Then new fuel.
Yes, it can be fixed - anything can fixed :)
 

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Yes, it can be fixed - anything can fixed :)
:plus1:

Wow thats a lot of codes, you might have the record for the most I've ever seen. Nevermind the gas, I don't think it's going to work lol.

If I were you, I'd take a top/down approach. All checks are from backprobing the specific colors at the ECM connectors with the positive probe and battery ground with the negative probe, unless stated otherwise.

Focus on the fuel pump/relay circuit checks first, then the ECM, injector and coils, then the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors

You will need a digital multimeter with a 10 megohm impedance to do these checks

DEFINITIONS
DC – Direct Current (99% of checks will be for this)

AC – Alternating Current (output voltage type for stator, ignition pulse generator and cam pulse generator(unverified))

ECM – Electronic Control Module (also referred to as ICM)

Ignition Pulse Generator – A magnetic hall effect sensor that sends timed pulses to ECM for ignition riming

Cam Pulse generator – A magnetic(unverified) hall effect sensor that sends timed pulses to ECM for injector timing

Throttle Position Sensor – A sensor the sends a variable return signal to the ECM to indicate throttle position, limited to 3 results. Closed Throttle, Part Throttle and Wide Open Throttle

Bank Angle Sensor – Safety sensor used to cut fuel and ignition in the advent of a crash

Kickstand Switch – Safety switch used to prevent bike from starting and running if bike in gear and kickstand is down

Neutral Switch – Safety switch used to prevent bike from starting and running if bike is in gear and clutch is not pulled in

ECM, Coil and Injector Power
Check at ECM 20v DC scale, Key on
Pink – Ground = 9-11v
Black/White – Ground = Battery Voltage
Blue/Black – Ground = Battery Voltage
Yellow/White – Ground = Battery Voltage
Red/Blue – Ground = Battery Voltage
Red/Yellow – Ground = Battery Voltage
Pink/Yellow – Ground = Battery Voltage
Pink/Blue – Ground = Battery Voltage
Pink/Green – Ground = Battery Voltage
Pink/Black – Ground = Battery Voltage

Ignition Pulse Generator and Cam Position Sensor
Check at ECM 2v AC Scale, Key Off
Yellow – Ground = At least 0.7v
Grey – Ground = Unknown, may look for same amount as Yellow (Need 929 owner to post what theirs reads)

ECM, Safety Switch Ground
Check at ECM for Continuity, Key Off
Green – Ground = No Resistance
Green/White - Ground = No Resistance (In gear, kickstand up), No Resistance (In neutral, kickstand down)

Fuel Pump Relay Power
Check at Fuel Pump Relay 20v DC Scale, Key On
Brown/Black – Ground = Battery Voltage (may have to crank, need verification from 929 owner)
Black/White – Ground = Battery Voltage
Black/White – Ground = Battery voltage (1)
Green – Ground = Battery Voltage (may have to crank, need verification from 929 owner) (2)
Splicing 1 and 2 bypasses the relay

Fuel Pump Power
Check at Fuel Pump 20v DC Scale, Key On
Brown – Ground = Battery Voltage (may have to crank, need verification from 929 owner)
Green – Ground = Battery Voltage (may have to crank, need verification from 929 owner)

Fuel Pump Ground, Low Fuel Indicator Circuit
Check at Fuel Pump for Continuity
Green – Ground = No Resistance
Brown/Black - Brown/Black at Instrument Cluster = No Resistance
 

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Discussion Starter #10
gna do the test as soon as battery charges...i also heard a hissing noise when i tried to star it ealier...kinda by the throtle body?? also, what is the fewest amount of senseors the bike can run without???also, i think my ecm is bad..just a thought...any one kno how to check one without test harness???
 

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gna do the test as soon as battery charges...i also heard a hissing noise when i tried to star it ealier...kinda by the throtle body?? also, what is the fewest amount of senseors the bike can run without???also, i think my ecm is bad..just a thought...any one kno how to check one without test harness???


Noise could be the servo motor gears.
The only sensor that is not required is maybe the bank angle sensor, but I don't recommend removing it.
Only way I know is to swap in another ECU.
 

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gna do the test as soon as battery charges...i also heard a hissing noise when i tried to star it ealier...kinda by the throtle body?? also, what is the fewest amount of senseors the bike can run without???also, i think my ecm is bad..just a thought...any one kno how to check one without test harness???
Vacuum leak?

You could run without all of them except the cam and crankshaft sensors, TPS and maybe the speed sensor. But that's dangerous and really isn't necessary.

You would do it by process of elimination since you can't test the ECM directly.

If it's getting a strong signal from the cam and crankshaft sensors, has power and a good ground, good connections to the coils and all of it's safety circuits are functional and has a signal from that retarded antitheft then you can pretty much say it's the ECM. Barring mechanical problems of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I did the test but im not sure if I did it right...i didbt get consistent readings? Was I suppose to take out the wires individually then test?? Ahh...i think I need to replace ecm...wat u guys think?thanks a millions...
 

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I did the test but im not sure if I did it right...i didbt get consistent readings? Was I suppose to take out the wires individually then test?? Ahh...i think I need to replace ecm...wat u guys think?thanks a millions...
You took all of those readings?

Did you write them down as you did them?

No, you back probe the connectors with the connector still hooked up. Slide the probe in the hole along the wire, you might have to press the tip towards the wire to get a reading once its bottomed out.

I think you have four options before you

1) Relax, take your time and a systematic approach to finding the problem(s)
2) Throw money at it and probably never find all the problem(s), if any
3) Take it to a shop and pay a professional
4) Sell it

If you want to go with 1, then take the readings and post your results. If you need a process or terminology explained, just ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wats back probing mean...n thanks foryalls advice...i would rather take the people from this website out for drinks before I put her back in a shop...mc shops here dnt really care for 929s...but I do...lol...again thank u all for ur time n patience with me...the readings I got eere alot of 12.60v...results...pink-ground 9.59, blak-white 12.60, yellow- white 12.60, 12.60 down the line for other wires..
Ipg and cps ... Yellow - 0.94 , grey- 0.49..i may of done it the wrong way but thats wat I got...thankss for the help
 

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Wats back probing mean...n thanks foryalls advice...i would rather take the people from this website out for drinks before I put her back in a shop...mc shops here dnt really care for 929s...but I do...lol...again thank u all for ur time n patience with me...the readings I got eere alot of 12.60v...results...pink-ground 9.59, blak-white 12.60, yellow- white 12.60, 12.60 down the line for other wires..
Ipg and cps ... Yellow - 0.94 , grey- 0.49..i may of done it the wrong way but thats wat I got...thankss for the help
Backprobing just means to probe from the backside of the connector, the pin side being the front in this case.

As long as you set your scale for AV 20v to test the IPG and CPS, your fine and the reading you got looks like you did.

Well it sounds like everything is in spec, well except for the cam sensor as I don't know what that reading is supposed to be as my shop manual doesn't even talk about it. But considering it's not throwing a code, you can let it slide for the moment.

Give me your email address.
 
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