Sorta like this I found this much easier than swapping out a swing arm.....I just left my bike together my buddy did the rest.The 929 doesn't have swingarm stand mounts, correct?
What I did with my 99 900RR swingarm was sand down the anodizing on a 3" section of each side of the base of the swingarm (where you want them to go), then I took the arm to a welding place and had them TIG weld on a 3/4" aluminum bung to each side. I think they used a hexagonal (or round) solid bar stock.
Then it was simply a matter of drilling and tapping the M8 thread and voila!
Welded then tapped my friend is a genius with the TIG and aluminum.....BTW my buddy says a good machinist/welder depending on his rate should only charge about $80 that's good money spent for the ease of maintenance.Great pics! Now are those welded on and then tapped?
I'm just changing out the swingarm to a 954 swingarm, problem solved
I've seen bike come off the paddle stands so I guess for piece of mind it's worth it to some for me only cost a few beers......why are you guys bothering with all that nonsense ? When you can just go on Ebay and order a swingarm stand with paddles that hold the swingarm underneathe. Less than $60 shipped = problem solved !
eBay Motors: CHROME MOTORCYCLE REAR SWINGARM LIFT STAND FOR HONDA (item 140085012657 end time Feb-18-07 09:10:50 PST)
Fantastic write-up!!! I am going to order those parts and get at it. Thanks for all the help everyone.Putting Spools on my 929
1/2" High Speed Drill Bit
Center Punch (to keep drill bit from walking)
Small rat tail file (Not necessary, but handy to clean out the holes)
19mm Box end wrench
1/2" Socket and wrench, or 1/2" box end
Something to measure, with mm's. Feel free to convert to inches if you want.
6mm Allen Wrench
Well the first thing I did was gather all of the tools, and order the parts. I used Lockhart Phillips spools and inserts (formally called Swingarm Button Kits and Riv-Nuts). The spools need to be 8mm. I used the 213-10 part number for the spools, and the inserts are part #213-41, which includes 6 inserts, and the tool to crimp them in place.
Measuring was the fun part, and I was shaking the entire time. I went 40 mm forward from the adjusting plate. On the left side I went 30mm up from the bottom, and on the right side I went up 15mm. One thing to note here, and I tried to illustrate this in the pictures, the measurement is to the center of the hole. Where the 40mm and the 15mm intersected is where I punched my mark and drilled. Same with the 40mm and 30mm intersection. Once you have the swingarm punched, then now is the time that you need to take the valium. Use a 1/2" drill bit to make the holes. I purchased a new drill bit, and a new punch to mark the place where I was going to drill, and to keep the bit from walking up the swingarm and gouging it. I tried to stay as level with the bike as possible while drilling so that I would have the holes centered. The only thing I noticed was that the bit was shaking pretty bad when drilling probably because it was chewing off so much metal at once. It was a little unnerving, but turned out to be just fine.
Once you get the holes drilled, there is a tool from LP that you use to basically crimp the inserts into place. Put the inserts on the tool, and then you drive them into the holes using the hammer. Once the insert is in the hole, you use a 19mm wrench on the large nut, and a 1/2" drive on the screw running through the nut and into the insert to crush the insert. The instructions from LP say to use Loctite on the inserts if they are too loose in the hole, and also that the hole should be just tight enough that you have to drive the inserts into. With a 1/2" bit, the inserts were pretty tight fitting. In fact, I used a very small file to clean off the edges.
Once the insert is crushed into place, you can then screw in the spool, which takes a 6mm allen wrench.
your gonna want to start a seperate thread for thisHello good people! i really need some help. My 2001 929 is in need of some tlc. i gettiing an FI red light. it blinked 9 times. the repair manual says the fault lies in the intake air temp sensor. Question: when this sensor fails, does it prevent the fuel pump from operating? does the ECU work intermittently when it over heats or fails? help!