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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone offer up any hints on doing this? I have a Factory pro shift kit and it says I need to pull the clutch to install it. Is any special tool needed to remove the clutch basket? The shift kit comes with only text directions so I don't know exactly how much I'll be removing when they say the "clutch assy". Just trying to get an idea before I apply wrench to motorcycle.
 

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You have to take the clutch assembly off because the shift star is behind it. If you've ever changed a wet clutch before, it will be a snap. If not, don't worry. There are a lot of pieces but as long as you keep the order straight (DON'T FLIP OVER ANY WASHERS, MAKE SURE YOU PUT THEM BACK EXACTLY THE SAME WAY) you should be fine. You'll need something to hold the clutch basket still while you loosen the nut holding the basket to the shaft. A screwdriver or other such implement will do. When reinstalling the clutch plates, take your time and tighten the bolts evenly a couple of turns at a time. You don't want to warp the plates.
 

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nedro said:
A screwdriver or other such implement will do. When reinstalling the clutch plates, take your time and tighten the bolts evenly a couple of turns at a time. You don't want to warp the plates.
A screw driver? Really? Man. The nut on mine was torqued to 140 ft./lb. and it took a custom made basket holder and two people to get it torqued back down again. A screw driver certainly would not have done the trick. :)

If you are just talking about the friction that's super-simple but pulling the basket and hub.. man.. I guess it could be a lot easier on those engines but I'll tall ya mine was a PITA without the $350 factory clutch basket tool. :rant:

Good luck, I hear the mod is good.
 

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Well, that's good to know. I took the clutch basket off my 750K when I was rebuilding the motor and took one off my 900F because the basket was distorted. It didn't seem too hard at the time but thing may be different now. BTW did I tell you that I have a set of Mac screwdrivers that are 3 feet long with 3/4" blades?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm 40% there right now. With an impact wrench and a 1ft screwdriver sideways against the studs it took about 5 seconds to get the nut off. Now.....anyone know those torque specs for getting it back on? I'm considering leaving it all apart and replacing the clutch and springs while I'm at this point. Though my stock clutch seems to have plenty of life left in it even with 21k miles.....Can you tell I ride it hard?

It's been an adventure so far.....not easy but not as hard as I was expecting it to be. As for the diffrence in shifting....seems like night and day right now. Almost as soon as you get pressure on the shifter it clicks to the next gear. You have to apply alitte more pressure now, but for only half the distance. As soon as the detent gets over the peak of the star it pulls itself down to the next position real fast due to the much stronger spring. Can't wait to get to try it while the bike is actually running.
 

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Sirkbac said:
Though my stock clutch seems to have plenty of life left in it even with 21k miles.....Can you tell I ride it hard?
Be glad you don't have a dry clutch. I let my friction got past 10k miles and it took out the basket too.

Hm.. what do you think, worn out (left)
The tool my father-in-law made to hold the basket (right)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
94ft/lbs for the nut on the clutch basket. wurd! Time to tack all this back together!
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Ok, the gear that meshes with the clutch basket has 2 gears ontop of each other. Larger lower gear and a thinner upper gear. The upper gear is just out of sync with the teeth on the lower gear. I see springs in the lower gear, is the upper one spring loaded? I know I'm doing an ass job of explaining this, so I took a pic. It's the large gear to the right, you can see 2 gears ontop of each other, the teeth just a hair out of sync, yellow spring inside the gears.

So what do you do with this so you can get the clutch basket back on?
 

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Sirkbac said:
Ok, the gear that meshes with the clutch basket has 2 gears ontop of each other. Larger lower gear and a thinner upper gear. The upper gear is just out of sync with the teeth on the lower gear. I see springs in the lower gear, is the upper one spring loaded? I know I'm doing an ass job of explaining this, so I took a pic. It's the large gear to the right, you can see 2 gears ontop of each other, the teeth just a hair out of sync, yellow spring inside the gears.

So what do you do with this so you can get the clutch basket back on?

Here's what my 954 manual shows. It shouldn't be any different on the 929.
Hope it helps.

EDIT: Of course that's the removal, but the installation is the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you so much, that sheds some light. I saw the hole....but figured I'd wait and find out for sure before I jammed stuff into it. Ordered a manual for the 929 today so I avoid these snags in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Anyone have the diagram for the parts break down on the clutch? I have 1 nut, 2 washers (one thin, one fat). In all the frustration, I lost track which goes where.

Looks like I'll be removing my oil pan, or fishing around with a magnent.....dropped one of the washers and it slid right into the sump.
 

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Sirkbac said:
Anyone have the diagram for the parts break down on the clutch? I have 1 nut, 2 washers (one thin, one fat).
Didn't see any real spec on the washer thickness. One is the thrust and the other is the lock washer. The lock washer should have an "outside" mark according to the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Doh, well....that seals it. In my effort to get 94ft/lbs applied to the clutch basket bolt....I snapped off one of the studs on the clutch center that the springs screw into. Guess I'll be watching E-bay for used clutch parts now. How in the hell will I get that tight enough now....


But on an up side, I did fish that washer out of the oil sump! Also had near embarassing situation when I got my hand stuck inside the bike trying to fish the washer out. I'm home alone, no one will be home till tomarrow. Would have made a fun cell call....."can you come over....my hand is stuck in the 929....yeah.....stuck.....quit laughing".
 

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When I installed a shift kit on my F3, I shifted it into 6th and stood on the rear brake while I torqued the nut. Worked fine for me. Maybe try that when you get a new clutch center.
Looks like it's only $49 from Ron Ayers - not too bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I guess I'll be placing an order with Ron Ayres. God I suck tonight. I'm sure I could have made more expensive errors in all of this. I will give the 6th gear trick a try next time. I think right now I need to forget the bike exists for a few days and not touch it. Not bad for my 1st clutch work.....oh wait....yeah it is!

Thanks again, hope you have a better new years than me.
 

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Sirkbac said:
Anyone have the diagram for the parts break down on the clutch? I have 1 nut, 2 washers (one thin, one fat). In all the frustration, I lost track which goes where.
Don't know if you found the answer on this part yet, but if not: the parts manual shows that there is a spring washer and a thrust washer that go under the nut. Spring washer goes between thrust washer and the nut.

Part numbers and/or diagram available if you need them. :cheers:
 

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Sirkbac said:
Looks like I'll be removing my oil pan, or fishing around with a magnent.....dropped one of the washers and it slid right into the sump.
I distinctly remember the directions saying to place a rag to block the oil drainback holes as 'you will' drop parts down there. Did you get the evo kit (with the new shift star) or the plain kit with just the arm and spring?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
CBRBob said:
I distinctly remember the directions saying to place a rag to block the oil drainback holes as 'you will' drop parts down there. Did you get the evo kit (with the new shift star) or the plain kit with just the arm and spring?

Best part is I did have that rag in there for 99% of the time. As soon as I removed it....*splunk*. I got the Evo kit. Feels nice so far, anxious to find out how it feels with the bike actually running.

Look, photographic proof I had a rag in there!
 
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