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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tried to take my bike out for a ride this morning and the oil light came on after it warmed up. I shut it off immediately, waited a few minutes and started it again. There was no light, so I tried to ride again, but it came on again a few seconds later. I limped home by running it for a bit and shutting it off every time it came on again. One time, it stayed off for a long time, I even let it sit at idle and it never came on. I tried to ride again, but then it came on again so I went back home and shut it off so I don't mess anything up. I checked the oil level before I ever started it and it looked good. what could it be? what should I check first? I've heard of manually checking the oil pressure, but what do I need to do that? anything else I should check?
 

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Sounds like an intermittent short to me. The older 900's had a habit of fraying the oil pressure switch wire that ran from the switch to the harness on the clutch side. Give the wires/harness a good look over, as long as you're sure the oil level is proper.
 

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you can rent or borrow oil pressure testing gauges at autozone or orileys parts stores.

if you dont have the service manual go online and search for cbr 929 service manual pdf, there are several places where you can find it to download. it has trouble shooting guides and tells how to do things like checking pressure manually.

your problem could be several things from shorted wires like ian mentioned to a bad pressure switch to a list of other things. start with the easiest stuff first like checking the wire condition. then a manual pressure test can tell you if the engine has pressure as it should. this is from my 954 manual but im pretty sure its the same on the 929. however dont take my word for it, id recommend downloading the service manual for the 929 just to be sure the pressures are the same.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the help, I'm hoping it's just the light as Ian suggested. I do have the manual on pdf, so I'll check that out and see what I can figure out.

Thanks!
 

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just look up the oil pressure switch location in the manual. its on the crankcase behind a dust cover with a wire leading out of it. pull the dust cover back and check that wire visually for any damage. there is a screw on the back or the oil pressure switch/sending unit where the wire terminal goes under. check it hasnt loosened up there. then follow the wire towards the wiring harness until you come to a connector. disconnect that n clean it up if need be n reconnect it. see if those simple tests corrected the issue. if not next thing to do is get the testing gauge n follow the guide i posted above to manually test the pressure. if its good you know its the sending unit or the wiring going to it. if the oil pressure is low doing the manual test the next thing to check is the oil pump screen located under the oil pan. if its clogged it will lower the oil pressure.

we will keep our fingers crossed its just a loose or frayed wire o bad sending unit. both of those are simple fixes.

let us know how the first stages go for you and how the pressure is lookin testing it manually if you hafta go that far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
finally got a chance to sit down and look through the manual and discovered that it wasn't the oil light at all, it's the MIL light. just checked it out and it's throwing the code for the TP sensor so I'll have to get out my multi meter and run through the tests the manual outlines. I'm also hearing a clicking sound now when I turn on the key and the switch to run. Any idea what that could be? I didn't see anything in the manual about a clicking noise like that.
 

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clicking could be the servo motor but itd be throwing a code 34 or 35. my servo motor was completely stripped at 15000.

try clearing the codes and seeing if it comes back. to clear them put the jumper on diagnostic connector with the key off. turn the key on. pull the jumper off. count one thousand one, one thousand two n put the jumper back on. the red mill light will start to flash steady flashes. if it stops after 20 flashes you need to do it again. it should just keep on flashing past 20. if it does turn the bike off and remove the jumper.

then take it out for a short ride or let it run up to temp n give a good few revs. recheck the codes. anytime i get a code i do this just to be sure what codes im working with and that it wasnt just a fluke or old stored code.

before clearing the codes id go ahead and pull the connector off the tp sensor and give it a cleaning and reconnect it. it could just be a simple loose connection at that connector.

if the code comes back after doing these steps bust out the multimeter n check the sensor and wiring harness between the ecu and the tp sensor following the steps outlined in the service manual. the tests are pretty easy. we will keep our fingers crossed this time that it was just a loose connector at the tp sensor.

not real sure what the clicking noise is but we should focus on this fi light problem until its straight.

protip: leave the kill switch in the run position ALL the time. just use the key to kill the motor. the only time you should use the kill switch is when your in an emergency and need to kill the motor quickly. the switches werent designed for all the time everyday use. there have been many threads on here where people who did use them regularly experienced problems relating to them. so its best to just use the key. not sure if you use the kill switch like that just sounded kinda like you may based on your last post saying with the switch set to run... kinda implying its not always in the run position. : )
 

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a metal paperclip bent into a "U" shape works great. you can use any ole piece of wire tho. the holes on the diagnostic connector are kinda small. the paperclip works well because its rigid. its kind of a pain to do the reset procedure with a simple twisted end of wire because it needs to make a good contact and hold it. twisted wire tends to fray out once it shoved in the hole n is kinda hard to putit back in the second time and get it to fit in there. lol youll see what i mean if that all you have.

fyi: once you put the connector in, turn the key to on, and pull it out the red MIL light will light up solid. it only stays lit for 5 seconds and you hafta plug the jumper back in within those 5 seconds while the MIL light is lit. so its a bit of a fumble pulling the wire out and plugging it back in. the rigid paperclip makes it a bit easier. but i have done it with numerous items, just needs to be conductive
 

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What do you use to clean the connector?
I usually clean connections with brake cleaner. Depending on the type of connector, I'll spray it right on them, spray it on a rag first, or use Q-tips for the small, hard to reach ones. Dry them off, then add a bit of dielectric grease to keep things a bit weatherproof. It helps reduce corrosion a as well.
 

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they make specialty cleaners for electrical connections as well, usually found near the dielectric grease. both can be found at autozone or home depot etc etc.
 

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^ Yes, agreed.

CRC is a popular brand of electrical contact cleaner that can usually be found at most auto parts stores, etc. It's always handy to keep a can of that stuff around the garage while sorting out with electrical gremlins on bikes, cars, etc. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks. It also just occurred to me that I may have read the code wrong. When I checked it, it gave 3 slow blinks and then 5 fast ones. The manual just said to count them, so I assumed that meant 8, but just got to thinking maybe it meant 35 (which would correspond with the comment earlier about the noise I'm hearing possibly being the servo)?

Also, I just took it out yesterday without cleaning or resetting anything and had no MIL light for the first 10 minutes or so, but then it came on again. Every time I shut it off and turn it on again, there's no light for at least the first 30 seconds or so, sometimes longer. After I rode it home yesterday with the light on again, I tried checking the code and got no flashes. I shut it off and started it up again and didn't get an mil light at all even after 30 seconds or so of idling and one quick Rev. Since the light is going off on its own and coming on somewhat sporadically, is performing the reset procedure going to do anything?
 
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