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I was riding my 94 magna and the bolt that holds the pedal/ shifter assembly to the frame came off to where i only had one bolt left on it. This has happened to me before and never caused any problems, i just had to lift my leg higher to shift it. When it happened this time I could not shift into ANY gears, I was in 3rd (i think) and couldnt downshift or go to fourth. When I pulled in the clutch I could feel it disengage so im pretty sure that is not the problem. I got home and installed new bolt thinking this was the problem and it was not. I still could not get it out of the gear it was in. I rolled the bike back and forth a few times and was able to get it out of gear and into neutral. When I tried downshifting to first it would not go until I rolled it once again and it went into first. Shifting between any of the gears is not smooth, nor is it quiet ( and it was fine this morning). But downshifting it sounds the worst. I checked my engine oil and its level is fine (and I believe the engine and tranny share the same oil-am I correct in this?) So I am not too sure whats going on. I hope the tranny isnt bad and wanted to see if there was anything anybody could think of before I take this sucker in. Its gonna cost a fortune if its the tranny I would guess.:(
 

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I was riding my 94 magna and the bolt that holds the pedal/ shifter assembly to the frame came off to where i only had one bolt left on it. This has happened to me before and never caused any problems, i just had to lift my leg higher to shift it. When it happened this time I could not shift into ANY gears, I was in 3rd (i think) and couldnt downshift or go to fourth. When I pulled in the clutch I could feel it disengage so im pretty sure that is not the problem. I got home and installed new bolt thinking this was the problem and it was not. I still could not get it out of the gear it was in. I rolled the bike back and forth a few times and was able to get it out of gear and into neutral. When I tried downshifting to first it would not go until I rolled it once again and it went into first. Shifting between any of the gears is not smooth, nor is it quiet ( and it was fine this morning). But downshifting it sounds the worst. I checked my engine oil and its level is fine (and I believe the engine and tranny share the same oil-am I correct in this?) So I am not too sure whats going on. I hope the tranny isnt bad and wanted to see if there was anything anybody could think of before I take this sucker in. Its gonna cost a fortune if its the tranny I would guess.:(

I'm not familiar enough with the bike so I can't picture which bolts you are referring to.
But it is normal to have to roll the bike to be able to change gears if the engine is not running, even from neutral to first. The gears have to be turning to engage the dogs.
Yes, the engine, transmission and clutch use the same oil.
 

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Hey there,

Years ago my 94 Magna did the same thing. Assuming all gets corrected, use a little Loctite and that'll prevent the bolts from coming out. If the noise you are referring to is the shift between 1st and 2nd that's clunk is standard Honda. I'm originally from the IE, my dad has a 95 Magna. If you'd like, I can get him in contact with you and he can check it out....he's a smart guy, retired engineer.

Mark
 

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I seem to have gotten it corrected, Thanks Mark. Is he a mechanic by any chance? Or does he know any bike shops here in the IE that are trustworthy? Dont really wanna take it to MAlcolm smith. They charge an arm & leg. I need a carb/valve job
 

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He's an engineer by trade, retired. Very sharp. A valve job, no...a carb sync, possibly. I think He has the tool around somewhere. I did a valve job at 12k miles per the handbook and was told it was a waste...I now have about 55k miles and it runs solid still, 1994 make.
 

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He's an engineer by trade, retired. Very sharp. A valve job, no...a carb sync, possibly. I think He has the tool around somewhere. I did a valve job at 12k miles per the handbook and was told it was a waste...I now have about 55k miles and it runs solid still, 1994 make.

The manual only suggests checking the clearances and adjusting any that aren't within spec. Checking the clearances is rarely a wasted effort.
 

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Well that's what the mechanic told me after laying out 400+ dollars as a college student...the shim design they use is pretty rock solid compared to valves on other bikes I have owned. Of course you should always follow the owners manual, that's how you'll win the court case....
 

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Oh, I used to use Mountain Motorsports, but the last time I used their maintenance was probably 10 years ago. I don't know any of the guys there anymore.
 

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Well that's what the mechanic told me after laying out 400+ dollars as a college student...the shim design they use is pretty rock solid compared to valves on other bikes I have owned. Of course you should always follow the owners manual, that's how you'll win the court case....

You said _you_ did the valve clearances so I assumed you meant yourself.
I certainly wouldn't pay somebody $400 to check them. A "valve job" generally refers to removing the head and recutting the valve seats.
Shim heads are generally pretty good except that unlike rocker heads, shim clearances tend to tighten up resulting in burnt valves - so you must check them. Rocker clearances tend to open up resulting in valve train noise so you know when they're getting loose.
As far as I'm concerned the manufacturer's maintenance schedule belongs in the bin.
 
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