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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I have owned this bike for little over a month. Hasn't ran right since I got it. It runs fine when cruising. But if you gun it, it runs super strong until 6,000rpm. then stumbles and sputters. If you stay in it, it comes out of it at around 9,000rpm. Any ideas what it could be or what to look at first? Was told carbs needed rebuilt when I got it but local shop just said floats needed adjusted. They adjusted them but bike still has same problem. ????? Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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Ok I have owned this bike for little over a month. Hasn't ran right since I got it. It runs fine when cruising. But if you gun it, it runs super strong until 6,000rpm. then stumbles and sputters. If you stay in it, it comes out of it at around 9,000rpm. Any ideas what it could be or what to look at first? Was told carbs needed rebuilt when I got it but local shop just said floats needed adjusted. They adjusted them but bike still has same problem. ????? Any help would be greatly appreciated
The floats are non adjustable, if out they need replacement. Id clean carbs thoroughly. And check plugs color after being ran where runs rough. See if lean or rich. And on which cylinder the plug looks bad is the carb you wanna inspect. Check plugs then look into the one carb.
 

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Thought this was a previous post about the same problem. Make sure the plastic cover is still fitted over the front of the frame, just above the spark plugs. This cured a previous posters problems, and, I can vouch for this cover being important on a couple of 'blades I have had to sort out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Previous post was about bike that he turned into a srteet fighter and has no frnt fairings. My bike has fairings. But I will say bike was jetted by previous owner and he put in a K&N filter and took the front tubes off of airbox and has just a short alum. pipe coming out of each opening.
 

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The front fairing seems to accentuate the problem. Easy to check that the cover is still there (as I said, it makes changing plugs v. awkward and tends to get cast away).
I do know that K+N's are far less restrictive than std paper elements so will accentuate any turbulence. I dont think the venturi length is critical, more for noise reduction than anything else.
 

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Still haven't found a way to copy the Ron Ayers Fiche pages, but:-
Google- Ron Ayers fiche. Then Honda motorcycle, 1998, cbr900rr. At the fiche page go to frame, its item number one one the exploded diagram.
 

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Sounds to me like a main jet or a needle height problem. I would check the carbs anyhow. See what size main jet you have, and check the clip position on the needle. My assumption is that the clip would be in be middle position, which is the recommended baseline position. You may need to go bigger on the main and/or raise the needle (lower the clip). Sometimes the bikes get lean in his area, especially with the air box mods you describe.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah I have had cpl people tell me same thing about mains and needles. Waiting on bike shop to call and tell me what size mains are in it and where needles are set.
 

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You get Your bike all sorted out?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
For most part yes. Runs like a totally different bike. Still has slight bobble at 10k rpm but it is because needles are worn badly and need replaced. Fix that when winter. Thx . Now onto last 2 issues with bike. Lol
 
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