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Discussion Starter #1
Well, after a very long time lurking.. and putting some very useful information to use... I figured it was time to post and see if anyone can give a helping hand. I have search AND SEARCHED and although I have found some help, I'm at wits end.

Recently picked up a 95f3 as a fixer upper and have done what I consider to be a good job. But one last hurdle that I cannot seem to overcome. The bike will start and idle PERFECTLY but in my last few rides it seems to be starving for fuel and wants to bogg and sputter on me, when its doing its sputter thing, I can almost "bump" the throttle and the bike will spring back to life and run strong. But at any moment the sputter will return... bump throttle again and zoom off... rinse and repeat!!

Im checking the plugs tomorrow but the bike went on a 25mi round trip run two days ago with out so much as a hiccup. I did have the flatspot that I had believed to be caused from the air induction solenoid problem, so after reading here I bypassed it which helped... then it started again after a few rides so I changed the fuel pump (today) and problem still persists...

Carbs are clean (last I checked and tank is clean as well)
Fuel Filter was good
Fuel Pump (brand new OEM today)
Bypassed air induction solenoid per multiple sites and posts

Any thoughts my good people?

BTW sorry if im missing information this is the first forum I have been on in probably over 10 years haha..
 

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is there anything you can pinpoint that changed about the same time it started misfiring? Does sound like a fuel starvation or intermittent blockage though...
Or could it be running rich and the sputtering is due to plugs fouling which then clear when you rev it? Until they foul again...maybe you can tell something from the state of the plugs. Not sure the air induction solenoid bypass is going to do anything other than complicate the issue, it seems anyway not to be the solution.

If all else fails you can fit an aftermarket lambda sensor and get a readout of air/fuel ratio as you go along..
 

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I would personally look at the carbs again very closely, even ultrasonic cleaning can leave some residue behind and a tiny bit of debris in one of the needle tubes can cause the problems you are experiencing, I'd also drain all the fuel and replace with fresh petrol and do a compression test just for piece of mind, although these are very strong engines valve issues are rare.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
is there anything you can pinpoint that changed about the same time it started misfiring? Does sound like a fuel starvation or intermittent blockage though...
Or could it be running rich and the sputtering is due to plugs fouling which then clear when you rev it? Until they foul again...maybe you can tell something from the state of the plugs. Not sure the air induction solenoid bypass is going to do anything other than complicate the issue, it seems anyway not to be the solution.

If all else fails you can fit an aftermarket lambda sensor and get a readout of air/fuel ratio as you go along..
Thanks for the response!

The main reason I did the solenoid bypass was because when I got the bike it had no fairings and I got a box of parts with it haha. Well after getting the bike started and idled up to temp (with no issues what so ever) I took it for a ride around the neighborhood. 1st gear was ok but low power, 2nd gear got worse and when you hit 3rd it would fall flat on its face and I mean NOTHING there. So after the normal plugs and fresh fuel did nothing I then went into the carbs which were all pretty much spotless seemed as though someone had been in there recently and the jets were the right ones for the bike. I however, don't know a lot about carbs on bikes so I didn't dive into them too much. Just checked for clean jets, bowls, diaphragms etc... which all looked good.. to me at least!

So after that changed nothing and much more reading I realized that I didn't have any of the parts for the air induction, so after some more ebaying I got the majority of the parts and went for the bypass. BOOM bike ran like a scolded cat (for the most part) ran it through the gears with seemingly no real issues. I did notice the CCT was bad after that ride so I changed that as well. So on my second real test ride I took it farther out from the house and noticed the sputtering that Im getting now, the bike could be ridden but you were never really sure when a sputter would arrive but you could work past it with some throttle work. So I was thinking the pump couldn't keep up, well a buddy of mine had an amazon one (stock style) brand new in box so we gave that a shot. Took the bike on a 20 mile round trip ride in 70 degree weather and had one or two real small issues with sputtering that could be worked past with a little blip of the throttle, but for the most part it seemed like I had the problem licked. Took it on a few shorter runs around town and a few other places with no real issues again VERY light sputtering here or there but nothing big. Took it for the 20mi trip I spoke of in the first post a couple of days ago which was stop and go and some 55-60mph driving. For the most part I had ZERO issues until about the last 5 minutes it started to sputter lightly again. So for me, I figured the amazon pump just couldn't keep up when hot or in long rides.. changed it with an OEM pump and still.. same issues.

Sorry for the long winded post but I wanted to give as much info as I could, again, today I plan on checking out the spark plugs and probably changing them just to check it off the list. But the ONLY variations I can think of as far as riding goes would be the outside temp and not letting the bike get up to operating temp before riding. I of course would let it warm up, but if my memory serves me correctly.. on both longer rides with no real issues I let it warm ALL THE WAY UP as to where 2 days ago I did not.. it came up in temp some but I started riding before it was fully warmed up... but that couldn't be a the issue could it??:idunno::idunno::idunno::idunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would personally look at the carbs again very closely, even ultrasonic cleaning can leave some residue behind and a tiny bit of debris in one of the needle tubes can cause the problems you are experiencing, I'd also drain all the fuel and replace with fresh petrol and do a compression test just for piece of mind, although these are very strong engines valve issues are rare.

Once it warms up here a little in Raleigh Im going to see what the plugs tell me, I'm considering on taking it to a local shop for a carb look over, as I don't have a great deal of knowledge on them.. gas is premium and very fresh. I'll have to look into that needle tube thing you speak of. Or see if the shop can... thanks for the suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so added thing that perplexes me even more... for the most part the bike has been tolerable to drive with slight putterings here and there when we have had some sunnier and nicer temp days.. HOWEVER, the last three nights I have drove the bike it has sputtered worse than ever before.. like I **** you not... its like the bike is scared of the dark!!!!!! Anyone have any thoughts?
 

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Have you checked the fuel pump ?
I had a few 600 f,s and the mechanical fual pump use to stick on me
A good clean solved it , most times but i do remember haveing to replace one , second hand not expencive ,
Hope this helps ye out .
 

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so added thing that perplexes me even more... for the most part the bike has been tolerable to drive with slight putterings here and there when we have had some sunnier and nicer temp days.. HOWEVER, the last three nights I have drove the bike it has sputtered worse than ever before.. like I **** you not... its like the bike is scared of the dark!!!!!! Anyone have any thoughts?
Ah. that's a clue. Have you more lights switched on in the dark than daytime? If so, it might be that the voltage available to generate the spark is less....usually it's a sign when you give more gas and it misfires (the spark needs more voltage to get through the higher cylinder pressure). Worth checking the charging voltage. Blades have never been good at generating electricity reliably.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ah. that's a clue. Have you more lights switched on in the dark than daytime? If so, it might be that the voltage available to generate the spark is less....usually it's a sign when you give more gas and it misfires (the spark needs more voltage to get through the higher cylinder pressure). Worth checking the charging voltage. Blades have never been good at generating electricity reliably.
So I hate to sound like a total newb, but arent the same lights on during the day that are on during the night (head and tail light and cluster) there isnt a sensor that turns some lights on during the night are there? Im almost starting to wonder if I have a leak at one of the boots that hold on the carbs and that its only showing its self more when its cooler and more damp air. Can I spray some carb cleaner in there to see if I hear an idle change?
 

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some folks don't put all their lights on during the daytime, it could just have been you were one of them....but apparently not . So bang goes that theory. Have you checked the fuel filter before the pump? This seems to have all the characteristics of fuel starvation, like there's a blockage that will only let fuel through at a certain rate, and if you ask more, all it does is empty the carb bowls and the engine dies. When you come off the gas it gives the bowls a chance to fill again, and round and round you go over the same cycle.r. Or maybe the fuel line somewhere between the tank and the carbs has become kinked? It can even be that the outside of the pipe looks fine but the inner layer has become detached and is blocking flow. Pull the line off the carbs and see how the fuel runs. If it's only a trickle you know what direction to take..
 

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Did you fix it???
Check the vents of the fuel tank... run a wire and compressed air through them and make sure the hose is not kinked... do this first.
Second, have you changed out the rectifier with the new mosfet style... check the plug to the rectifier... could be fried.
 

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Did you fix it???
Check the vents of the fuel tank... run a wire and compressed air through them and make sure the hose is not kinked... do this first.
Second, have you changed out the rectifier with the new mosfet style... check the plug to the rectifier... could be fried.
This guy had a couple good suggestions.
If the vent is clogged, the pump could struggle against vacuum in the tank.
I wonder how Noah came out?

He said he saw clues that someone had been into the carbs recently.
After rebuilding the carbs on my gl1000, I learned how critically important cleanliness is, and blowing out ALL the passages thoroughly. Float level was critical also. And so was vacuum testing after replacing all the seals.
When reading his description of symptoms, floats and bowl levels crossed my mind...
 
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