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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I'm having running problems with my 95 blade, when I start it from cold it runs on 3 cylinders and sounds really rough but when its warmed up it runs great and if left for an hour or 2 and re started all is well but left over night and re started same problem and if I ride it from cold its missing and banging all over the place, I've changed the plugs and same problem and I've read the fault finding section in the manual and the list of possibilities is endless so just want to know if anyone has had the same problem before I start looking, any sugestions would be much appreciated

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Blocked or partially blocked slow jet. Possibly by build up of corrosion after a lay up, possibly due to a split gauze filter in the tank. Easy to clean the jets up, while you have the tank off check the gauze filter too or you'll do like me and clean the cars 3 times before figuring that out. Still, I'm quick at cleaning carbs now.

If the filter is failed and you baulked at the cost of a new one you can fit an inline filter, just about goes in. If you do this don't forget the clips!

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi,
Thanks for your reply, if its a carburetor problem would it not run rough all time? It runs fine when its warmed up
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Not necessarily. When cold it's lean and needs more fuel. When warm it needs less fuel (you put the choke off) so I'm thinking partially blocked jet rather than fully blocked. Sure it could be electrical but the carbs are relatively easier to fix and you can see whether you've done any good at a glance.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi,
I just tried it again from cold and it started on 2 cylinders then started popping and banging between 2 and 3 then warmed up and ran fine on all 4 so I'm convinced its electrical but not sure where to start is there any common electrical faults with the 95 blade that would show these symptoms?
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Hi,
I just tried it again from cold and it started on 2 cylinders then started popping and banging between 2 and 3 then warmed up and ran fine on all 4 so I'm convinced its electrical but not sure where to start is there any common electrical faults with the 95 blade that would show these symptoms?
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check your coils, then maybe check an make sure valves are in spec
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi again,
I have just checked all the electrics with a meter and all seems well so tried to start it again and checked which cylinders it was firing on by touching the manifolds, it was running on 1,2,3 but not 4 so I removed and checked the no.4 plug and sparking fine so replaced it then it ran on 3 and 4 only then then 2 kicked in as it was warming up then 1 then it ran fine so does that help anyone with identifying my problem any suggestions would be very much appreciated
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Hi again,
I have just checked all the electrics with a meter and all seems well so tried to start it again and checked which cylinders it was firing on by touching the manifolds, it was running on 1,2,3 but not 4 so I removed and checked the no.4 plug and sparking fine so replaced it then it ran on 3 and 4 only then then 2 kicked in as it was warming up then 1 then it ran fine so does that help anyone with identifying my problem any suggestions would be very much appreciated
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coils are in the right firing order?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi,
I'm almost convinced its the valve shims because it runs on 1 or 2 when cold but when warm it runs fine so I think the valves are opening just a fraction more when warm what do you all think ?
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Does it only run rough when you have he choke engaged? And when the choke is off and warm it runs fine? Maybe something is sticking or blocked in the air cut off passage. These have a tendency to stick and make the choke not work properly. IMO the choke actuation/cable set up on the early 900's is garbage. The ACV's are actuated by the choke cable. Kind of in line with what Amorti is saying about a clogged jet. Keep feeding us info.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi,
The choke makes no difference at all it starts fine without it I've never needed choke even in the cold weather. When I start it from cold it won't ever start on all 4 sometimes 3, 2 or even 1 cylinder but as it warms up the other cylinders start to fire so could I be right in thinking that as it gets warm the valves are opening just that little bit more? I'm really getting pi##ed off with it now,
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Ok, that would then sound more electrical or possibly a cylinder problem. Do you have means of doing a compression check and a valve inspection? The valve clearance inspection would definitely tell you if there was a discrepancy, but most of the time the clearance isn't bad enough to make it run poorly. How many miles are on the clock? Also, it could be a bad coil. When the coil gets warm/hot it may work properly, however when cold it may not fire right. Try to find 2 known good coils and swap them out. Also, make sure the small pin connectors from the wire harness are plugged in to the right spade connector on the coil. Wish I had more to offer. I would think that someone on the forum here would have some suggestions as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi,
When I start it from cold it runs on different cylinders all the time, sometimes it starts on 1 and 4 sometimes on 3 and 2 and sometimes on 1 cylinder and sometimes on 3 cylinders there is no pattern to it and the problem is on all 4 cylinders so I doubt both coils are playing up I'm really puzzled and a mechanic at my local bike dealers reckons its the valve shims which I've never done its got 40,000 on the clock and it had 30,000 on it when I bought it so don't know if they have ever been done but I'm not convinced the valves are my problem,
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It sounds electrical to me. I would start with the coils. Check the back where they ground to the frame and make sure nothing looks suspect. Swap them and see it the problem follows. I would also check your rectifier connections. This is a thorn in the side of all 80's-90's Hondas and if it's not bad it will be. The wires will melt through and ground to the frame and the connections in the plug will overheat and crossover also.

This is a great fix for this problem.
Rick's Motorsports Wiring Harness Connector Kit Fits Honda CBR900RR 1993 1999 | eBay
 

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Wow 40,000 is a pretty good number. I believe the recommended mileage to inspect the valve clearance is every 16,000 miles. It's possible they haven't been checked over the years. You could in fact be so far out of adjustment that they are not closing properly to give you good enough compression. Get in there and inspect the clearances. That inspection will rule it out. It's easing enough to inspect if you have the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hi
I fitted an r1 rectifier because of the problem Honda ones but the Yamaha has 1 extra red wire so I spliced them together could this be causing me problems? I fitted the Yamaha one because someone on here suggested it
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Hi
I fitted an r1 rectifier because of the problem Honda ones but the Yamaha has 1 extra red wire so I spliced them together could this be causing me problems? I fitted the Yamaha one because someone on here suggested it
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I would have a good hard look at what you did adapting the R1 rectifier to your bike. Did you soldier and heat shrink? Trace and follow and check all the insulation on all the wires for about the first 1/2m or so from the rectifier. When I got my bike, the wires were getting so hot, they had melted through and grounding out on the frame. Any place there is a limited connection, (crimp connectors or just twisted wires) that can create even more heat and make the rectifier heat up. I still keep thinking it's a ground issue, you say it misses when cold and goes away when warmed up. If its a ground or loose ground, the vibration of a running bike can help renew a suspect ground and the heat makes metals swell even so slightly making a marginal ground connect. Pull your coils and clean and reconnect everything especially where they connect to the frame. I would also pull and reconnect your ECU just for good measure.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hi again,
Many thanks for all your advice I will pull it all apart at the weekend and have a thorough inspection and I think I will re fit a Honda rectifier even tho they are crap I've been through 4 of them in 2 years and cooked 4 batteries I wish they could make one that lasts,
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Hi
I fitted an r1 rectifier because of the problem Honda ones but the Yamaha has 1 extra red wire so I spliced them together could this be causing me problems? I fitted the Yamaha one because someone on here suggested it
Cheers
That would be a pretty substantial change from when it last ran properly. Any other significant changes since it last ran properly? Refit the Honda one and report back on the weekend. Good luck!
 
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