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The oem tail was likely injection molded around the threaded inserts. You could thread the existing holes, get press fit or screw in inserts and try to melt them in, or you can fill the holes with polyester resin then drill and tap. Heck, you could even cut the piece off the oem tail and use 2 part glue to attach it to the Chinese one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
No argument with that, but I ordered a specific number on my Castrols to match my number plate. Of course they could have jobbed it out, but just passing this on as info.


View attachment 108140

View attachment 108141
I meant to ask you about the mirrors on this bike. They don't appear to be OEM. Aftermarkets? Do you have pics of the front (showing the mirrors)? Did they mount using the original mirror fitting/fasteners?
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
So it's been a while since I've posted or given any updates on the fairing install and mods I've done. I'm about 85% done. I wish I had taken time to post pics, but here's what I've done so far:
But I will be installing these instead:LED Car Daytime Running Light DRL Driving Turn Signal Fog Lamp White Amber 12V | eBay


I modified the bulbs in my headlight. The two outside bulbs are fan cooled LED's and the middle one (low beam) is a different type of LED bulb. The pic shows the 2nd fan cooled LED in the low beam holder, but I was able to modify the other outside lamp housing and move it there.
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I also need to change the front blinkers. one of them was no longer working at all and the other had ~half of the LED bulbs burn out. I will replace them with the same ones:
2X Motorcycle Triangle Flush Mount Turn Signal LED Lamp Amber Light Indicator | eBay



It took me weeks to figure out all the missing screws and right sizes for the headlight fairing piece before i could safely mount it. I think there are 9 total screws that are needed?
Anyway I eventually got it installed to the frame and got the side fairings mostly installed. I'm still missing a couple of fasteners. For the life of me I don't recall how they were fastened with the original fairing. I had to enlarge a couple of fastener holes to accomodate the OEM faring bolts, but no big deal. So this is what I worked on this past weekend. Results so far:
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Fairly thin, supplied heatshield for fairing innards.

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You can see the missing faring bolt right above the front blinkers. Can someone please remind me how these bolts are fastened? I have the bolts, but no nuts or something to lock it in :(

Anyway, I'm almost there. more to come!...
 

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Yes it is, hope he had insurance. I am planning on painting my 954 in the new triple R paint scheme. What do you think??? It is black with gold rims right now. I figured I could stay with the gold rims 🤔
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Yes it is, hope he had insurance. I am planning on painting my 954 in the new triple R paint scheme. What do you think??? It is black with gold rims right now. I figured I could stay with the gold rims 🤔
I think the new paint scheme just might work
Yeah def hope his insurance kicks in if the bike isn't recovered.

The new RRR is in black and gold?? I hadn't seen this before. I'm partial to red and schemes with red in it. Those gold rims on the black bike are sharp though. Who's bike is in the pic?
 

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That's my 954, the new RRR is in Red, White and blue. I saw one with gold rims. I really like the paint scheme. I'm not sure about a black one as of yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
That's my 954, the new RRR is in Red, White and blue. I saw one with gold rims. I really like the paint scheme. I'm not sure about a black one as of yet.
My bad I misread your original message. I thought you were saying the new RRR was available in black with gold rims, but you're talking about painting your black and gold 954 to match the new RRR paint scheme and keep your gold rims.
I saw a 2017 model:
Have you sourced a fairing supplier or are you going to have your original bodywork painted?
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
It should be held on by a clip like this. The bolt goes through the lower fairing and threads into the upper cowl.
Soo it turns out I can't use the speednuts (clips). There is no place for it to attach. The fairing pieces are simply two, flat pieces that lie on top of the other. But I was able to use a rubber encased threaded insert. There are 4 locations. On one of the locations I experimented by boring out the hole so the insert could slide in the plastic fairing. Seems to hold up well so far. still no road tests yet, but I'm getting close.

Yesterday I spent time the plastic clips on the fairing bottom. The factory ones didn't fit. I ended up boring those holes out too and installing aftermarket ones. There are 4 of these too. I drilled the first hole too large, but fortunately had a clip used for my car that fits well. Pic below. I have noticed this before and thought i mentioned to anyone who wondered, but the black color in the aftermarket fairing isn't truly black. It's a very deep color navy blue. You can see that more clearly in the fairing clip pic. Although you can't really notice unless you're really up close.
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I spent waaay more time than I expected trying to get my new rear turn signal lights to work. When I connected them up nothing happened. no lights or anything. Eventually I whipped out the DMM and measured ~6 to 7 VDC at the connection wires. When I connected the lights directly to the battery (where obviously there is 12 VDC) they worked fine. I'm using an adjustable EP34 flasher for the LED blinkers. Any thoughts on what's causing the voltage drop?

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Thankfully the existing incandescent blinkers still work on that low voltage.
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Lastly I installed the rear seat. I couldn't install the aftermarket cowling because I need my parts from my factory cowling to put it together and don't have the cowling with me right now, but I got stuck trying to get the cable re-inserted in the seat lock. Any suggestions on how best to do this? I tried pulling the wire (circled in blue) as much as I could but it still wasn't enough to reach that slot in the lock.
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Pop the yellow part out of the retaining clip/holder. It’s just a press fit/interference fit. Then put the pin in the arm and clip the yellow part back in the retainer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Pop the yellow part out of the retaining clip/holder. It’s just a press fit/interference fit. Then put the pin in the arm and clip the yellow part back in the retainer.
Thanks Ian. I had tried that too, but simply didn't have enough slack in that cable to make it fit back into the bracket/clip. Instead I loosened it up at the other end and it was much easier to adjust the cable. The cable attaches to this lock mechanism (for the seat latch) but it moves via a ribbon/slider which is waay easier to manipulate. the mechanism is attached under the fastener in this pic below:

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior


I removed that top bolt and the mechanism was slack enough to attach the cable at the other end, but I had to reattach the mechanism on this end. After some fiddling around finally got it to line up. I tried attaching the new cowl, but the holes don't line up with the seat bracket. Tomorrow I'll switch the innards that came with the aftermarket cowl with the factory one and hopefully the only thing remaining is to figure out my turn signal voltage.

I removed the side fairing to access the EP34 LED flasher I installed and measured voltage at the E (Earth?) and L (light?) terminals and got the same voltage I measured at the turn signal wires fluctuating between 6-7 VDC down to ~3 VDC. Shouldn't I see 12 VDC between these two?
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Almost there! Figured out the issue with my low voltage on the blinker circuit. I mistakenly wired it up wrong when i replaced the flasher/relay a few weeks back. I simply swapped the wires at the L & B terminals and voila!
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior Electrical wiring



I was able to get the rear cowl installed by swapping the innards from the OEM. The aftermarket one didn't align with the holes in the mounting bracket. But after installing it, it wouldn't stay latched. I tried realigning the cowl to the bracket several different ways, but couldn't find the sweet spot for it to stay down. It will stay down if I push it back and downwards but will pop up once i hit a bump in the road. Suggestions on how to keep this pinned down???
Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bicycle part Carbon Tire
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Motorcycle


After some finagling with replacing the windscreen fasteners with those from the OEM screen, I finally got it installed too:
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive tire


Still undecided about whether to replace the red front fender with the black aftermarket one. 🤷‍♂️
 
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