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954 Cold start ticking/clicking

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12K views 32 replies 14 participants last post by  drae150  
#1 ·
Can anyone tell me exactly what the cause of this is?

Upon starting the engine when it's cold, there is an audible ticking/clickety-clacking coming from the engine top-end area. At first I thought it was the injectors ticking, but it goes away after about 1:30-2:00 of idling.
The fact that it takes about 2 min to go away tells me it shouldn't be the valvetrain being starved of oil, as it only takes a few seconds for the oil to circulate through the engine.
I just switched to Amsoil 20w50 full synth oil but it also did that with the Rotella T oil the previous owner used.
Now, once the ticking stops, it runs and pulls normally.
Could it be that the valves need adjustment (it only has 7100 miles on it), and that once they warm up and expand, they don't clack?
Could it actually be the injectors pushing more than normal fuel through to richen up the mixture for the cold engine, that's causing the temporary ticking?
 
#4 ·
I do know that a lot of these bikes do this prior to warming up. I know of some who have subsequently changed the cam chain tensioner which did not resolve the ticking.

It's oil circulating or the tappets or both.

Don't worry, it is normal with 954s
 
#8 ·
Yeah normal. Ive read in a few places that its because in the cold weather/overnight, some of the parts shrink a little (i think its valve shims or o-rings or something) and it gets back to normal when the engine is warmed up.

I used to park my bike behind my house in the shade, i always heard a tick but now i park in front the house when its in direct sunlight for the greater part of day and it stopped happening.
 
#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
Do this happens in case of oil cooled engines? It never happened with me but sometimes it reflects knocking problem but I take over it with normal warm up.
_________________
at affordable price.
Definitely not a knocking issue with me. I use non-ethanol 93 octane fuel (and most of the time I add Seafoam to a tank as well).

nyknick, that explanation makes quite a bit of sense. I know these engines have fairly tight tolerances and any sort of metal contraction due to cooler weather might indeed cause that clacking, until the metal warms up.
 
#12 ·
It is a very thick oil but that '54's coolant temp will get over 100 deg/c when sitting at a stop light (even in this weather) and is normally around 85 deg when riding (regardless of speed). Thicker oil cools (absorbs heat) better, and isn't too different from the thinner viscosity oil when the engines get that warm.
I did lose a few mpg when I switched to 20/50 but I feel that the extra protection it provides, is worth it.
 
#17 ·
Well this bike doesn't have any leaks. I got it in August and ran the Rotella T that the seller said was in it, until the week before last when I changed it. I put about 2500 miles on it from August until then so I would've seen any leaking when I changed the oil.

I didn't put the higher viscosity in it to mask any oil leaks. I just wanted the maximum protection. Particularly in light of how hot they run and (as steve mentions) how thin their cases are.
I rode it in to work today (30 miles) in 36 degree weather and the coolant temp still stayed right at 83 deg/C even at 85mph. That thing is still a 'heater' even in this weather.

hung/xop/mad, I really dont' think you have anything to worry about. I was just curious as to why the valvetrain clacks for that long when it only takes a few seconds for the oil to circulate. But as well, I also think it is the injectors ticking, as they are doing max duty during a cold start, as the mixture tends to be rich until it warms up.
 
#29 ·
If the noise stops when you pull the clutch lever in (loading up the clutch) then it's probably just the damper springs and nothing to worry about.
 
#19 ·
Spaz, I know how oil works. I know it will take slightly longer, but unless that oil light (don't know why these bikes don't have an OP gauge) is vastly inaccurate (as it goes off within two seconds of engine starting), oil is getting to that engine fairly quick. I'd bet my next paycheck it's circling through that engine long before all that ticking stops.
And allow me to reiterate that even before I switched to the thicker oil, it was still 'ticking' at startup.
And also let me reiterate that this is full synthetic oil. Synthetic oil is designed for excellent protection in cold weather.
I also let the bike idle until at least that ticking/clacking stops before I get on it and put it in gear and take off.
 
#21 ·
The heavier oil might be a fact to some extent, however...
Is Synthetic Oil Better?
It flows easier in cold weather, therefore no loss of prime when the oil is cold. Also, it is highly resistant to viscosity breakdown (the ability of the oil to flow easily in all temps) from heat, friction, chemical contaminants.

Easier Engine Cold Start
Good Synthetic Motor Oils remain fluid in the coldest operating conditions. Maintaining their fluidity and protecting ability in temperatures as frigid as -60°F, this not only permits easy engine cranking for quick starts, but flows to critical engine components in a quarter of the time that conventional oils take. Considering that up to 60 percent of all engine wear occurs during cold starts, this immediate lubrication is essential to long-term engine life.
Spaz, I do vehemently appreciate the advice (as that's what we're here for), but this ain't my first engine oil rodeo. LOL
Plus I did a shitload of research as well.