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954 COMPLETE ENGINE REBUILD

38K views 33 replies 9 participants last post by  T.naquin01! 
#1 ·
have a bone stock 954 with 60k miles on it, and its starting to make noises and knocks. nothing terrible, but I want to completely rebuild the motor and freshen up everything.

is there a standard list of parts that need to be bought/replaced? i want to order everything ahead of time, etc. thanks
 
#2 ·
Best thing to do is get yourself the service manual - it'll state every new part that's needed as you work through. Not aware of any definitive list, but maybe someone's knocked one up over the years.
 
#4 ·
have a bone stock 954 with 60k miles on it, and its starting to make noises and knocks. nothing terrible, but I want to completely rebuild the motor and freshen up everything.

is there a standard list of parts that need to be bought/replaced? i want to order everything ahead of time, etc. thanks

How much mileage is on the current camchain and tensioner?
How long since the valve clearances were checked?
Have you built engines before?

First, get a manual.
Then download the fiches for the engine, they show every one of the 660 pieces in the 954 engine.

2003 Honda CBR954RR OEM Crankshaft + Piston Parts | MotoSport

I don't recommend buying anything before you have the engine stripped and inspected as you don't know what is worn or damaged. If the bores are scored for example you will need to bore them and run over-size pistons and rings.
If any crank journals are worn you will need to order under-size bearings.

Essentially you will need the following parts (once you determine the exact sizes required):
gaskets and o-rings throughout (don't forget the valve guide seals)
main and rod bearing shells (18 pieces)
Not absolutely required but new rod bolts and nuts (US$75) and main bearing bolts (US$50) are cheap insurance.
Oil pump if yours is worn
Camchain
Camchain tensioner (this can be done later though if yours is still okay)
Rings
Pistons if yours are worn - (don't forget to measure the ring grooves)
Circlips
Piston pins if yours are worn - unlikely
Clutch plates
Clutch springs (if required)
Clutch bearings (if required)
Clutch stake nut
The transmission will come down to replacing any worn/damaged gears, forks or bearings.

The head:
sixteen new shims will be required if you recut or lap the valves
sixteen valve guide seals
Inspect and replace any valves and/or guides, valve springs, camshafts or buckets if any are worn - unlikely though.

There is no need to replace the water pump during an engine build as it is easily done when it's required.

Not required, but I would also replace the exhaust studs and nuts with stainless.
 
#5 ·
Hi Bladeracer...

After I read and read, you are the doctor of CBR.....Nice+++

I'm doing some modify with my CBR929 engine. to be 954cc and now the cranshift bearing has some problem of pressure balance...Still waiting for some crank journal bearing parts...
 
#6 ·
Hi all, just happen to be doing same with my ticking 954 and found conrod bearing scored down to the copper so now time for rebuild which has reveiled some decent scoring in bores. Yeah. So am considering boring to fit the oversized pistons but engine shop is saying looks to be nikasil. Does anybody know if it is or isnt as manual says nothing about recoating. Any help greatly appreciated.
 
#7 ·
Yes, they are plated aluminium bores.
Is the damage less than 0.12mm deep?
On the 929/954 engine I _believe_ it's possible to bore them to the 0.25mm oversize without requiring replating but I haven't spoken with anybody that has done so. Apparently Honda used a special aluminium composite to line the bores rather than a thin plating as is the norm.
Generally if you're going to go to the expense of boring and rebuilding the engine most people just go 1mm over and replate the bores.
US Chrome is the best bet for boring and plating.
 
#8 ·
What about electrosil in Melbourne. Anybody used them. If i do get it plated what pistons do you recommend that dont knock.Hate knocking engines. Does anybody know if Mahle have pistons available to up the compression to 12.5. Have heard wiseco's knock, not sure on what to use
 
#9 ·
Haven't used them myself, mainly due to their pricing and lack of guarantee.
What do you mean by "knock"?
There are dozens of piston manufacturers.
 
#11 ·
When you have forged pistons in aluminium bores then you need larger piston-to-bore clearances, not much you can do about that - unless you are willing to pre-heat the engine before firing it up every time of course.
But saying that, I haven't heard too many engines with this knocking noise you're talking about.
Wiseco and JE are probably the more common choices I've seen.

Bit hard to answer which is the "best" mod without knowing what you consider the best.
I suppose anything that can't done with the engine in the bike would be good as everything else can be done as and when required.

Boring, stroking and lightening the crank, titanium rods, porting, transmission undercut, titanium valves and retainers and lighter valve springs.
 
#13 ·
Ok between JE and wiseco is there any better than the other. This did start out as my cheapest Honda i have ever bought, that is quickly changing with this rebuild quote
I would probably lean marginally toward JE of the two but I'd use either.
Carrillo also do CP pistons which are good.

US Chrome can also repair your scored bores so maybe get a quote for that. Saves some of the cost.
 
#14 ·
Ok between JE and wiseco is there any better than the other. This did start out as my cheapest Honda i have ever bought, that is quickly changing with this rebuild quote
Hi Buddy
I used 75mm JE piston kits 12.5:1 on my CBR929rr, they are good pistons(as my knowledge) and I sent my cylinder set to US Chrome to bored 1mm in my cylinder and replating it. see pic below..When cylinder set came back, it just like brand new...


I believe those are very important for every engine, The bearings! On each side of cylinder case has different number(EX..ABCD or 12345) you have to see service manual about the instruction, each cylinder front left side match to cranshift side of number to find the bearing color, when HONDA made engine cases, they are monoclock. and each engine has different pressure on engine case and cranshift.
once on cranshift, has 5 set main journal bearings(connecting rods has 4 sets), while one side is installed different color bearings, the engine will work not well, even makes engine bad/blow off.... because of balance/pressure!

So..while you stalled the engine, you have to use plastigauge to see and test it, once take out the engine case, the plastigauge shows too wide, you have to use samller bearings to test. The bearings thin-thick A-G...

Here is the engine case number...


A lot of knowledge learn from Braderacer...and thanks
 
#17 ·
Yes, you are right...because I have Ti-engine connecting rods to install on it, so I have to be extremely carefully of this engine setup...



And now...i'm doing rods coated with Chromium Nitride to reduce galling on the sides of the big end. The 6vi4L titanium HRC is 38... and after surface coating. the HRC is 59-60.OEM engine connecting rods HRC is 59.
Compare to the OEM and Titanium weight ..see the pic below..
Ti-rod weight ..


And under is OEM ..

Very nice indeed :)
Who made them and do they specify different bearing clearances from the steel OEM's?
 
#28 ·
Hi all again, good news bottom end with savageable, bores honed marks supposedly gone pistons have been retefloned crank has been think he said micro polished and is ready to go all for around $400. Cylinder head on other hand 3 exhaust valve guides are kaput and 3 valves worn out. Anybody tried ferrea valves in their 954 and will 929 valves fit a 954. Do valve sets come with retainer or are they extra.
 
#29 ·
So far this is a monster thread! One thing I might add though is do not skimp on your bearings or gaskets. You're going through a hell of a lot of work and cash and the last thing you want is a bearing you overlooked turning it all into a heap of scrap or a cheap gasket greasing your belly pans up.... I'm going to have to rebuild one of my 929 motors at some stage, still haven't run it though (one remaining ECM playing up) so not sure if the problem is more than just gaskets but considering the condition of the rest of the bike I'm not particularly optimistic, thanks for all the info guys, I may also request a set of those rods when the time comes.
 
#32 ·
Subscribing to this informative thread. Im awaiting bearings for my 954. The case and crank numbers calculation in manual produced to thick of bearing (plastigauge of the chart). Brown used(order whole set, now i dont need), so I ordered 1 pink and 1 yellow(maybe green) hard to remember. Gonna plastigauge each one with thinner bearings and see what clearances I get. Then order proper amount. Live and learn.
 
#33 ·
UPDATE-----all plastigauged and yellow bearings except#3 needed green on rods. Block needed all red (If i remember correctly). The clearances were different for main bearings though...bit tricky. "Bladeracer" has been a huge help in my build.

Has anyone else needed different size bearings? Normal?
 
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