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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there, I`m new to this and was wondering if anyone could help me!!
My 954 blade (2002) cuts out after crusing along 60/70 mph opening throttle to overtake then when slowing down/ backing off the throttle it cuts out like you've hit the kill switch and get a backfire when engine starts bk up which is straight away. The bike idles ok, so tick over speed is ok, also plugs, air filted and oil have been changed, and fuel filter is clean. Have cheched side stand switch and tilt switch which are also fine... oh and if you blip the throttle in 2nd 3rd etc and release clutch it also feels like your hitting limiter even if you only take the rev's to 6/7000 rpm. both red lights and Fi light come on.
Any help would be great!!!!
 

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:welcome: , mine was doing the same thing a while ago, i never found out what it was but it isnt doing it now so i have only clues. Check your kill switch and make sure connections are fine. Also check ur battery connections.
 

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Clutch switch maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The kill switch has been opened up and contacts cleand, and have just fitted a new battery about 2 weeks ago as one of my mates said that a low battery might be the cause. On the move the bike only cuts out at a speed of between 67 and 75mph, its got me puzzled.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cheers for the reply Larry, How does the clutch switch work and forgive me but where is it lol
 

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:)
On the clutch lever.
I think it cuts ignition (it may only cut the start circuit though) so you can't start the bike in gear without pulling the clutch.
Try bypassing it and see if that helps.
I doubt it's the problem but it's easy to check and the problem definately seems electrical.

Actually, I just thought about it and the clutch switch can't cut the ignition so it must only isolate the starter circuit.
 

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On the move the bike only cuts out at a speed of between 67 and 75mph, its got me puzzled.
Is this regardless of gear or revs?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Have noticed its normaly when i'm in 5th or 6th gear, when I have just overtaken & slowing back down to around 70mph, or when riding at a constant 72 mph in either of these gears, it cuts out and back on again in seconds, just like youve hit the kill swith on and off. If you thrash the bike it seems ok, you can take the revs right up to max with no problems, only when backing off the throttle or idelling along do I get the fault. But also in 2nd or 3rd if you blip the throttle (try to lift the front end) it seems like you hit the rev limiter even at 6,7,8000 rpm, and you get the red lights on the dash.
 

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Mine was cutting out too, but not in the exact same way because I couldn't identify what was causing it to cut off. My mechanic replaced the TPS and it happened again twice. He said to take it back but I thought I would just keep riding it till I get a better understanding of when it's doing it. It's now two months later and it has been running fine, but I haven't regained my trust back since I can't accept that the problem just went away. :idunno:
Although, I did notice something recently- when I hit my High Beams there is a 2-3 second delay for the lights( also the Hi-Beam indicator) to actually fire up. This did not happen before.
Also how long should the "FI" signal stay on after the engine starts up? Mine stays on for bout 3 seconds then it goes away.
 

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It really sounds like a fuel related problem due to electrical. You're at high speed (sorta :smilebig:) and then it cuts out, then back in.

I would focus on the fuel pressure regulator; if you rule that out, start checking out the injectors themselves. The regulator's job gets harder the faster you go (it has to increase the delivery rate to the injectors) and the way you describe the hard throttle/no throttle, seems almost like the system is starving, then catching up..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Cheers for the replys, sorry havent been on here for week or so but been away!!!! Bike has had a diagnostic check and nothing is showing up, and I am not getting and fault lights on the bike after I have had the cut out faults!!
Still getting the faults/cutting out, and now the bike cuts out in 1st if I pull away fast or hold the revs between 20 and 30mph... How do I check the fuel pressure regulator and the TPS? I'm now pulling my hair out with this damn bike lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Have also checked the wiring on the alarm fitted (Data tool sys 3) and all looks fine, thought this might have been the problem as there is still no fault lights when the ignition is on and the bike is on side stand!!
 

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I've got a 954 and have been experiencing it cutting out, but only under hard-ish acceleration. I also have got no faults showing or history of faults(you get them by shorting the service connector by the battery). I was trying to sort it myself, but I've just given it to a local bloke recomended to me. Before I did, however, i got as far as eliminating the problem by bypassing the stop relay(the relay that clicks when you switch the run/stop switch). Looking at a schematic drawing in the "fuel system" chapter of the manual, shows that this isolates the problem to the ignition switch, the run/stop switch, the bank angle sensor, 4 fuses and all the associated wiring for for these. I ran out of time then and had to give it to the bloke I'd booked it in with. I told him all I'd done hoping this might save some of his time diagnosing it. Even though my alarm(also a datatool) seems to be working, he suggested that this could still be the problem and said that they are wired into the run/stop relay wiring. I could understand how this might be the case, maybe the mercury/movement switch is messing about. The thing is, the only way you can find out if it is the alarm is by removing it and if I do this, it's not going back on wether it's the problem or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Oh didnt know I had to short the connector, do you have to short it and turn on ignition with side stand down.... Also I have had a lot of the electrical connectors apart today so the memory on ECU will have stored this, how do you clear memory so I can take bike out, and when I get fault I can re-check fault lights
 

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Yeah, just short the black connector with the bike on the sidestand, turn the ignition on and if it has a record of a fault it will flash. I don't think disconnecting stuff will record a fault unless it's on or running when you do it.
You can erase the memory by shorting the connector, turning the ignition on, removing the jumper wire, then replacing it again before the MIL goes out. A manual will help if you can get one(CD's- ebay?).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Have just shorted connector with ignition off then turned on, but no faults stored? noticed when i removed short then re applied when ignition on the exhaust and airbox servo moved about 1/4 a turn, shouldnt this move when ignition turned on without short?
 
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